Rust Removal

[gottcent]

I'm sure this question has been raised before, but what is the best way to remove rust from such items as an AF 755 Talking Station (sheet metal) or a Lionel 6414 Auto Loader?

John Gottcent

[Anonymous]

John,

         Bead blasting would be best.  A dremel with a wire wheel could be used, and the rust could also be sanded by hand.

The base of the 755 usually is the first place for rust to set in since Gilbert's prep on those seems questionable.  I've had more than a few that had the gray paint flaked off in large sections.

[EIS2]

There was a fellow that posted a series of threads with videos showing his restoration of some prewar passenger cars.  He used a battery charger and some common household solution to do a very nice job of removing rust, but I don't know if it also removed paint.  I have heard of other folks using the battery charger method with very good results.  You would have to remove all electrical components before using the process.

Good Luck...

Earl

[gottcent]

Thanks for the tips, guys. I'll see what I can do.

John

[TRAINCAT]

My method is to use the dremel on it, then use "Kleen Strip" jellied rust remover. Then prime and paint.

Roger

[Mainlinehobo]

USE MOLASSES!  OK SO you may scoff, but I discovered this method a few months ago when removing rust on some of my automotive oil can collection.  Check it out on YouTube.  Guys are soaking whole car panels in the stuff and it comes out terrific.  Nothing left but the solid metal and paint.  Mix molasses and water (I use 10 parts water to 1 part molasses by volume) then soak the metal part in it for up to a week.  It's a bit slower than other methods, but it really works great.  It removes 100% of the rust, wont attack, pit, or stain the metal, and won't affect the paint.  Although you'll probably be re-painting anyway... but this process is really clean and amazing in how it works.  Use the sulfured molasses that you can purchase at any feed store.  It's used for animal feed, comes in 1 gal and 5 gal pails, keeps forever, and is cheap.  As a side note, I've used the electric battery charger method with washing soda and water mentioned in other blogs many times before with mixed results.  This electric method does a good job of removing rust fast, but I've actually had it attack paint, and it will also sometimes attack and pit soft metal castings (zinc and/or zamack,) and plating which Lionel and others used many times over the years) so I can't recommend this battery charger method for toy train restoration.  I’m not sure why this happens only sometimes, but it probably has something to do with the metallurgy of the cathode/anode used in the bucket.  Example; If you’ve seen this battery charger rust removal process demonstrated on YouTube, you’ll see them use rebar for the cathode and anode in the bucket of washing soda and water.  I’ve had good luck using pure iron bolts, but horrible luck using common rebar for the cathodes and anodes.  With molasses water, however, I've tossed rusty steel parts into the stuff with white metal (zinc) parts still rivited to the assembly (milk car innards) and it all came out excellent.  At any rate, if you decide to use this molasses method, you can just toss the liquid stuff in the garden after you're done with no environmental impact whatsoever.  Quite frankly, I'm no chemical engineer, but I've noticed it actually does my flowers good.  Probably fortifies the soil with iron (rust) and nitrogen (molasses).  Will also draw a few houseflies, and after a few days it will smell like stale beer so do this in the garage.  I haven't formally tested this on chemically blued parts to any extent, but plan to do so here pretty soon.  I can't think of any time though that it discolored my trucks or wheels in the past, and I've done a ton of truck and wheel cleaning this way on post-war cars.  Just rinse the part well in warm water afterward (right in the sink as its non-poisonous) and then use some WD40 to dissipate the moisture and wipe it off.  OR just use clean water and dry without the WD40, then immediately prime and paint.  It also does an AMAIZING job on rusty tin plate track.  Comes out looking brand new, with none of the tin plaiting or tie paint affected whatsoever.  Make sure you allow the cardboard insulation material between the rails and the ties to dry thoroughly before use. Do me a favor tho and don't take my word for it.  Test this first before you plunk your original 700e into the bucket for a good de-rusting.  It would just be my luck that your casting would melt and slowly ooze down the drain due to some unknown party molasses mixture you concocted, and then I'd get the blame.  So just remember, the process works great for me, but its on you to test first.  Good luck and have fun.