I am building an O-Gauge layout for my kids and I. Does anyone have any experience with O-gauge flex track, such as Gar-Graves? I have worked with HO flex track in the past, but heard the O-Gauge is more difficult. Anybody have any suggestions?
I don't know what "more difficult" is, other that H0 just bends, rails slip in plastic ties.
GarGraves has wood ties, and you have to "work" it, belly-bend, move the ties, bend some more. Once it's done, it tends to stay put.
Dave
Pretty much what Dave stated. I have used Gargrave Flex for my larger curves such as 072 and 081.
Bill T.
Gargraves has a video on the hows to do it and they suggest to make a mold but a little smaller as it will flex back some. they don't recommend free hand bending as track may kink. I believe the mentioned that to make the mold like 36" radius for O-42 track.
Life's hard, even harder if your stupid John Wayne
http://rtssite.shutterfly.com/
I think you mean 18-inch radius.
Bob Nelson
You guys are not fun. Oatmeal container???? I wanted to see a picture of dave's belly bend. Now that would be cool.
Harold
Thanks to all for your help.
The easy and precise way to lay Flextrack is to swing and mark a center rail radius and bend to the marked line and fasten as you go forward. In my particular case with installing nearly 1,000 feet of Gargraves over 25 years, has been to install split cork roadbed halves to the mark and then align the center rail with the cork center joint. You don't have to use cork--the benchwork will also suffice to mark the center rail curve arc.
I normally start witha 37' section inserted partially into the last straight section on a run, begin bending as I enter the curve and move 9 ties forward from the "trailing" end, drill and install a screw--note I am leaving the "trailing" end 9 ties wild at this point.[you will be removing some ties and realigning others as you bend and move foreward]. I continue forward, bending to align with the cork centerline and, again,at about 9 ties forward I drill and install another track screw, then 9 ties again install a screw leaving a wild "forward" end.........
Now, since the middle and outer rails have pulled out at the "Trailing' end as I bent, I lay the weight of my forearm on the section and with a wood block,drive the rails up [leaving a slight joint gap]. Then at this joint place a hammer handle end against the outer tie endsat the joint and I ease the joint in until it aligns with the cork center line. Holding it there, I move one tie back from the joint on each side and install a track screw. This produces a perfect non-kinked joint and will do so as you install in the curve going forward. Then I drive the rails the remainder of the way up , but not "jam' tight.
From here at the "leading" end of your first section, with a wild end about 9 ties back, soon to become the "trailing" end joint, I insert the next 37" section and proceed to do the same thing all over again. You can cut your track square with a Dremmel or razor saw or leave the joints staggered--it works well either way.
One tip---plan ahead so you do not end up with real short piece at the end of the overall curve. It is better to cut two 37" sections into say two two 25"sections to cover 50 " instead of a 37"full piece and a 13"short piece. You can prebend a 13" piece with you fingers and thumb and then anchor it with a track screw equidantant from each end and apply the hammer handle to tie ends to gradually ease it into a bend, using you thumbs and fingers to keeping it from kinking at the screw. It is better to plan and cut the track. I have often bent on a 18' radi[036] but of course it is more difficult than a 21" [042] simply because it requires far more patience and sore thumbs/fingers.
Hope this helps!
A&Y:
You hit the nail on the head, so to speak.
Exactly the method I used when I experimented with Gargraves Flex some time ago.
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