I've got 9 Lionel O22 switches on my 4X9 layout- Most work GREAT, there are a few however that work "slow" expecially when the automatic anit-derail feature is triggered. The more power to the track, the better they switch.... Is there a way to make these motors work faster? I've lubed the slides and cleaned out all of the debris and old grease so there is no binding or drag.The bulbs burn bright. There are a few that "snap" really crisply and quickly- is that lucky? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Gotta love the smell of smoke!
Put "022/711 switch operating pblms" into Google. This will take you to a long post I made on the CTT forum about restoring 022 switches.
Works a lot better if you just search right here on trains.com for this discussion/thread.
Rob
The obvious way to make them switch better is run constant voltage to the switches, I know servoguy likes 18-20 volts, I limit mine to 18 volts and they all snap very quickly. If you're running conventional and not highballing, the voltage to the switch could be only 10-12 volts, many switches will be lethargic at those voltages.
Thank you! I've tested mine today at 18V- only 1 didn't snap back quickly! I ordered LED bulbs to keep the heat downso I'll probably run the constant voltage at 18 volts but will also try 20 volts. I just didn't want to melt the switch lanterns as the traditional bulbs do get warm and I have melted a few in the past.
Do most of you run 2 transformers, 1-for accessories and switches 1- for trains? I use a ZW and have a KW as well. I was planning on running the fixed voltage from the using the C-U terminals on the left side of the ZW- I don't see how I would ever run more than 2 trains at once on such a small layout (4X9). I bought some terminal blocks from radio shack and can hook all 8 switches to one block, then only having to run 2 wires back to the transformer.
Thanks a lot for all the help-Jim
So when using the fixed voltage on the O22 switches- Do you bypass the provided plug? Soldering right to the pin? It looks a lot cleaner without the larg plug hanging off the side of the switch unit!
I most often use a blue crimp on lug rather than the Lionel plug. Either one is necessary because it breaks a connection between the pin and the center rail of the track. If you don't break the connection, the center rail will be at the fixed voltage level and you may have smoke coming out of your transformer or wiring (whichever one wins the battle).
I run 7 022s off KW accessory terminals with LEDs using a terminal block for the 022s and all my accessories i.e. 2 wires from the transformer ..... works great ... 022s snap and lights and accessories work fine
Alright guys here's an issue I can not resolve. I've got 9 O22 switches on my layout, 8 work outstanding now, 1 however is giving me fits the anti-derail feature works in one direction but not the other. I've got 1 section in my layout where, no matter what switch I throw into it- the non-derail feature will not work in the same direction (the turnout side). There is a figure 8 involved for my reversing loop. Every one of those switches work great in other locations but that one certain area NONE of them work. I've got the fiber pins in the correct areas. What else should I look for?
DadzKrazyAboutLionelPostWar So when using the fixed voltage on the O22 switches- Do you bypass the provided plug? Soldering right to the pin? It looks a lot cleaner without the larg plug hanging off the side of the switch unit!
gunrunnerjohn DadzKrazyAboutLionelPostWar: So when using the fixed voltage on the O22 switches- Do you bypass the provided plug? Soldering right to the pin? It looks a lot cleaner without the larg plug hanging off the side of the switch unit! I figure with that big ugly switch motor hanging out, who's going to notice the fixed voltage plug?
DadzKrazyAboutLionelPostWar: So when using the fixed voltage on the O22 switches- Do you bypass the provided plug? Soldering right to the pin? It looks a lot cleaner without the larg plug hanging off the side of the switch unit!
That "big ugly switch motor" is a thing of beauty-a piece of Americana-an icon. but you're right- I don't even notice the plug now!
DadzKrazyAboutLionelPostWar...I've got 1 section in my layout where, no matter what switch I throw into it- the non-derail feature will not work in the same direction (the turnout side)...
Something in the layout design is preventing the outside rail opposite the 022 trigger rail on the turnout side from getting a strong common/ground potential.
Can you post a diagram and/or photos?
Go get my post on restoring 022 switches, and do everything I suggest in that post. These switches are 50-70 years old. Out of 80 I restored, I didn't find a single one that didn't need some work.
I don't mean to be a PITA Bruce, but doing a complete overhaul of every switch to solve a couple of problems is probably not in the cards for most folks. I won't argue that they could probably use it, some of the ones I've overhauled have been pretty grim.
Here is how I see it. If you install several 022 switches into your layout and screw everything down, and one of the switch fails, that is a real PITA. I prefer to get everything working right up front. It is about an hour's work to restore an 022 switch if it doesn't have any real bad problems. I think it is time well spent. I restored mine over a period of months, so it never became a PITA.
Okay so here's my layout, the switch in question is the one to the bottom of the milk platform in the center of the layout. No matter which switch I put there, the turnout portion of the switch will not operate the non-derail feature but those same switches work flawlessly elswhere.
Disconnect the 151 from that switch. The semaphore should not be switch activated or connected to a 022. A 153, OK.
None of the accessories are actually hooked up yet- I've got about half of the track screwed down I can't finish attaching the rest until I figure out this screwy switch ordeal. I'm still messing with all of the accessory placement.
Thank you guys for all of the help! I disassembled all of my left hand switches to see exactly what the difference was between the ones that worked, and those that did not. It appears that the non-derail-RAIL contact was broken on 3 of the 4 left hand switches, either they had been repaired in a previous life,or they just broke. I was able to solder that contact closed and WA-LA they work.
You live and you learn! This is what I love about working on and repairing my own stuff, there's a great satisfaction I get in finally conquering a problemed piece!
That broken solder joint is very common on both LH and RH switches. You should check all of them. And while you have the bottom cover off, solder all the crimp connections to avoid future problems. I tell you how to do that in my post.
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