Trains.com

Curved Uncoupling Track

1044 views
6 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Curved Uncoupling Track
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, August 21, 2004 1:02 PM
Big Boy , Dave, Et. Al.,
[8] HELP!!

Once AGAIN, the Little River and Hobart redevelopement project needs coaching from the pros. [^]
In order for our Cab track to be double ended ike it should be, we need to uncouple on an O-31 curve. (Still trying to fit as many "engine yard" functions as we can into our TT and Roundhouse area. Lots of "teaching AND play value" to each of these prototype functions)
Neither Gargraves nor Ross offer uncoupling curved sections. [xx(]
By now, one of you guys has modified a GarGraves 107 to do that or I miss my guess.
Detailed how-to, and pitfall warnings [:(] please. [?]
Thanks,
Joe
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: St Paul, MN
  • 6,218 posts
Posted by Big_Boy_4005 on Saturday, August 21, 2004 3:35 PM
There may be a reason that nobody makes a curved uncoupling track. It won't work reliably. When activated, the knuckles may not open because the of the pressure placed on them from sitting on the curve.

That said, if you still want one you could probably make one by taking an old Lionel uncoupler section and either cut it very short and squeeze it in. The 027 uncoupler with the open ties (modern style) is the best candidate for the donated magnet.

If you want to get fancy, just cut out and insert the electro magnet portion. To do that you will need to cut out a chunk of the center rail to match the length of the magnet section. If this is a standard 031 tubular curve, you will need to place it away from the center tie. One thing that may make the job easier is to remove the center rail to do the cutting and fitting. If you need it to be in the center of the section, you could take an old piece of track and steal a tie and slide the center tie over, giving you a 4 tie curved uncoupler.

If you are trying to put it into gargraves track, you'll probably have to carve away parts of some of the ties to get it to sit at the proper level.

Then wire it up, and you're ready to go.

Good luck.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, August 21, 2004 6:03 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Big_Boy_4005

There may be a reason that nobody makes a curved uncoupling track. It won't work reliably. When activated, the knuckles may not open because the of the pressure placed on them from sitting on the curve.

That said, if you still want one you could probably make one by taking an old Lionel uncoupler section and either cut it very short and squeeze it in. The 027 uncoupler with the open ties (modern style) is the best candidate for the donated magnet.

If you want to get fancy, just cut out and insert the electro magnet portion. To do that you will need to cut out a chunk of the center rail to match the length of the magnet section. If this is a standard 031 tubular curve, you will need to place it away from the center tie. One thing that may make the job easier is to remove the center rail to do the cutting and fitting. If you need it to be in the center of the section, you could take an old piece of track and steal a tie and slide the center tie over, giving you a 4 tie curved uncoupler.

If you are trying to put it into gargraves track, you'll probably have to carve away parts of some of the ties to get it to sit at the proper level.

Then wire it up, and you're ready to go.

Good luck.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, August 21, 2004 6:34 PM
Elliott, you are the greatest!! [:D] [^]

No matter what one of us "wanna-be's" [%-)] posts, you take time to answer from your great store of experience and knowledge.
Thanks a ton! [bow]

We, (Joe III and me ((I'm Joe Jr.)) took your caution to heart. We spent the next couple hours re-re-redesigning that part until we got the cab track in with standard Gargraves uncouplers at each end.

Surprise, [:)] it actually made a couple of other formerly "cast in stone" things get changed for the better too. Things DO happen for the best sometimes, even after you think you've "planned this thing to death"...[angel]

I will post photos per your earlier teachings when that TT, Roundhouse, Engine and car-service facility is finally done.
It will have Coal Elevator, Water Tower and Sand Tower and Ash Pit,for steamers, Fuel Stand and Sand Tower for Diesels, RIP Track, two stall shop, dining car and Pullman service building, Box car and covered wagon wash-out track, cab track and separate cab service siding with building for cab supplies and tank for cab heater kerosine. And probably a wash rack on the lead as well (if it fits).

Anybody (especially any old 1:1 scale personnel) think of anything we left out??


Thanks also Elliott for your help a couple of months back with the cross-over issue in our flat-yard. [tup]
The classification yards finally got at least a couple of cross-over pairs per more of your teachings.
It was tough as we used 3 3/8 center-center spacing in that 21 track yards.
But it'll be worth it as those are a couple pairs of L-O-N-G sidings. (Over 15 feet)

Wouldn't you know it! NOW they offer a "double slip switch".... wonder if that came from Joe's phone chat with those good folks?? Strange cooincidence if not.

How is the "hump yard" part of your project coming along? Any new photos posted?

Joe








QUOTE: Originally posted by Big_Boy_4005

There may be a reason that nobody makes a curved uncoupling track. It won't work reliably. When activated, the knuckles may not open because the of the pressure placed on them from sitting on the curve.

That said, if you still want one you could probably make one by taking an old Lionel uncoupler section and either cut it very short and squeeze it in. The 027 uncoupler with the open ties (modern style) is the best candidate for the donated magnet.

If you want to get fancy, just cut out and insert the electro magnet portion. To do that you will need to cut out a chunk of the center rail to match the length of the magnet section. If this is a standard 031 tubular curve, you will need to place it away from the center tie. One thing that may make the job easier is to remove the center rail to do the cutting and fitting. If you need it to be in the center of the section, you could take an old piece of track and steal a tie and slide the center tie over, giving you a 4 tie curved uncoupler.

If you are trying to put it into gargraves track, you'll probably have to carve away parts of some of the ties to get it to sit at the proper level.

Then wire it up, and you're ready to go.

Good luck.
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: St Paul, MN
  • 6,218 posts
Posted by Big_Boy_4005 on Saturday, August 21, 2004 7:10 PM
You are very welcome Joe and Joe. My postings are so many, and my memory so bad, that I am very grateful for your reminder about the crossover. I do remember that discussion now, and I'm sorry that I didn't make the connection straight away.

Yes, both Atlas and Ross came out with double slips shortly after that conversation. Speaking of which, you might find this topic interesting. I posted a fun photo there to help illustrate the concept.

http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=19576

The progress on my layout has unfortunately stalled out for the summer. I spent a fair amount of time taking pictures of real trains. I hope to get back at it very soon here, when my kids start school.
  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: Austin, TX
  • 10,096 posts
Posted by lionelsoni on Sunday, August 22, 2004 7:42 PM
The biggest problem I see with uncoupling on a curve is getting coupled up again, which usually demands straight track.

Bob Nelson

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, August 22, 2004 9:51 PM
Another solution is to insert a Lionel No. 37 Super "O" uncoupling track (approx. 2" in length) between two sections of 031 tubular track. Super "O" is the same height as Gargraves and Lionel 027; sligtly lower than 031 tubular, but can be shimmed to match that rail height. HTH, though it sounds like you solved your problem.

Join our Community!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

Search the Community

FREE EMAIL NEWSLETTER

Get the Classic Toy Trains newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month