Hello, all. I have a lionel 2025 postwar locomotive. I bought an oil smoke conversion from olsen toy train parts. I was wondering if there is any specific type of oil I am suppossed to use. Is there a brand specific oil or just a regular household 3 in 1 oil. Does one work better over the other. Thanks as always for all of you all's help.
I have had great luck with the Megasteam smoke fluid. It is the best, period. Go on their website-and check it out. I have a 2025 now and am using smoke pellet scent. When you do the liquid conversion,
put more of the pacman in than what they give you. Fiberglass insulation works well, that is what i use. Also, chuck the wick.
Do not use 3 and 1, it will not work well
DIDO with the Megasteam smoke fluid.
I use it in my 681 and have not put a conversion in it and it works just fine.
Kev.
Joined 1-21-2011 TCA 13-68614
Kev, From The North Bluff Above Marseilles IL.
Beings that I am an amature, what does chuck the wick mean?
I also use MegaSteam fluid, I have various scents for oil, wood, or coal. :)
Checking the wick means that the liquid smoke units have a wick that gets charred with use, and gets charred much faster if they're run without fluid. A normal maintenance item is to occasionally replace the wicking in the smoke unit. I personally use Tiki torch wicks, much cheaper than buying the overpriced stuff that Lionel or MTH sells.
lionel1666,
You have a liquid smoke conversion unit, not oil. Do not use any type of oil in the smoke unit. Use only smoke fluid designed for model trains, either Lionel, or third party fluid.
Larry
There has been so much discussion of smoke units this week, I may as well ask:
Do postwar Lionel steamers need to have their smoke units 'converted' to use liquid smoke fluid?
I thought the liquid could be used in the original smoke units, without any changes. Am I mistaken?
[I haven't put anything in my steamers since I ran out of pellets, circa 1986]
runtime
runtime,
I tried seven of the liquid conversion kits, and they all failed after the sleeve on the heater charred. The smoke units don't need to be modified to accept the conversion. Unlike the liquid conversion, pellet heaters can be run dry with no problem. Modern fluid also works great in pellet units. Repro smoke pellets are readily available now as well.
Smoke pellets are available here, if your hobby shop does not carry them.
Does not need to be converted. I run them converted and not converted. Pills heated turn to liquid.
Megasteam or Lionel or MTH. I quit using Megasteam due to charing. It is thinner and needs replinishing fater. I use Lionel in Lionel and Atlas. MTH in MTH. Use which ever you choose.
God bless TCA 05-58541 Benefactor Member of the NRA, Member of the American Legion, Retired Boss Hog of Roseyville , KC&D Qualified
Ok then, lets change directions. I still have my original pellet unit. The last time my grandpa used it was about 30 years ago. What is the best way to clean it out? Also is there a way to ohm it out to see if the element is still good before putting the locomotive all back together? Thanks for all of the great info. You all are always so great in helping me and many others learn along the way.
Just stick an ohm-meter across it to check it. Even easier is to put the bare locomotive on the tracks, put it in neutral, and crank up the voltage to about 12 volts. If it smokes, it's working. :)
So, just ohm from from the lead coming in to ground?
Trains are for children or used around children as well as the railroad hobbyist!
Petroleum based oil can poison a child as well as catching fire. Most model "Smoke FLUID" is based on Mineral Oil which has a higher flash point and , while not completely safe, is not deadly. Read the warnings on the container.
Don U. TCA 73-5735
lionel1666 Ok then, lets change directions. I still have my original pellet unit. The last time my grandpa used it was about 30 years ago. What is the best way to clean it out? Also is there a way to ohm it out to see if the element is still good before putting the locomotive all back together? Thanks for all of the great info. You all are always so great in helping me and many others learn along the way.
1666, On my 1950s Lionel 681 I just put in the smoke fluid about 6 t0 8 drops then started it up and away it went. Whatever was left in there from the past melted and just went up in smoke. Just give her a try. then worry about it if it don't work Tks, Kev
1666,
On my 1950s Lionel 681 I just put in the smoke fluid about 6 t0 8 drops then started it up and away it went.
Whatever was left in there from the past melted and just went up in smoke.
Just give her a try. then worry about it if it don't work
Tks,
Kev
The smoke unit is in parallel with the headlight, the e-unit coil, and the motor. This makes it difficult to tell whether the smoke unit is open. You can unsolder the smoke unit. Or you can cycle the e-unit into neutral (to disconnect the motor), shut off the e-unit coil, remove the headlight lamp, and then measure the smoke unit's resistance without disconnecting it.
Bob Nelson
Thanks to all for the smoke fluid/ pellet advice!
Time for me to get em smokin again.
Guess I'll try some Lionel fluid first, since I think that's what my LHS carries.
runtime Thanks to all for the smoke fluid/ pellet advice! Time for me to get em smokin again. Guess I'll try some Lionel fluid first, since I think that's what my LHS carries. runtime
Go for it. The old residue will melt and burn out. Now if it does not puff good, you can take it apart. Clean out chimney [part of casting sticking up inside] with tooth pick and then you can play with the piston and the "flapper" and do some adjusting to get full piston movement. Usually that is too much trouble. I've done it just to be doing it.
Be sure to resist the temptation to put some lube or oil in the flapper/smoke piston mechanism, that tends to attract dirt I found out the hard way. Just clean it well and you'll be puffing in no time!
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