"block wiring"

[gunrunnerjohn]

If you park a train on O27 switches, they will eventually cook the solenoids.  O31 switches like the 022, or the 3010/3011 don't have that issues as they only apply power to the solenoid for the actual switch movement.

 

[survivor]

hello Bob and ty all for your rapid replies!!! i have experienced the buzzing of these 1122 switches several times as wheels run over the ends....however, to clarify the problem, the switches Buzzed  when the loco wheels cross over the insulated block section on the mainline run....whether the block is on or off. i had all 3 rails insulated with fibre pins....at each end of the block. and the wheels still had 2 sections of track to go over on way to switch.i took the fibre pins back out....made the whole mainline a complete loop again.....now all is well, and of course i still have the familiar buzzing when trains cross turnouts.  that i can live with...the other problem i was concerned about frying the switch solenoids. and thanks for the info on the 1952 model 1122,i do have one of these on the layout....and i see the insulated outer rails on this switch. amazing technology for the 50's were they not? 

[lionelsoni]

It's my pleasure.  You're both very welcome.

[KRM]

I agree Doug,

It was suggested to me by someone on this forum, when I got back into running my post-war trains with 027 track that I should get a copy of the Greenberg’s Repair and Operating Manual 1945-1969. It was well worth it to me.

If that don’t help Bob is the man.

Tks,

Kev.

[cnw1995]

This thread reminds me of Bob's kindness and patience years ago in helping me figure out the same thing when I entered the hobby. Thanks again, Bob!

[lionelsoni]

Do not insulate all the outside rails, just the two short ones that almost meet at the frog.

[jpmct]

Did you insulate the outside rails on the non-derailing switches?  They need a fiber pin so that when the train wheels complete the common connection to the non-derailing insulated rails the switch will throw in that direction.

[lionelsoni]

The outside rails should all be connected together, except for the turnouts' control rails, which should have insulating pins or gaps.  Most 1122 turnouts' control rails are the short running rails that almost come together at the frog.  However, the control rails of the 1952 version are in the middles of the long outside rails; so no insulating pins should be used.  (Note that these turnouts' service-manual pages on the Olsen's site are interchanged.)

When connected properly, the 1122 turnouts will buzz when a train passes over them, repeatedly and redundantly trying to throw the turnout with each truck that goes over the control rail.  This happens because, unlike turnouts like the 022, throwing the turnout does not disconnect the solenoid that does the work.  This is normal behavior.

[survivor]

hello all, i have a question.......having been out of model railroading for quite a few years, i need to know the correct way to wire block sections in my 027 layout??? i have all common outside rails joined...and was hoping to use an old  atlas control ( 3 switches on/off) to power the blocks. i have insulated 3 different blocks,now when the engine rolls over the insulated mainline section...my turnouts buzz loudly. sounds like a short to me, can anyone enlighten me on how i should insulate/and wire blocks. ? the turnouts i am using are all 3 terminal 1122 units. i understand the basics of ac versus dc voltage and current, but this just does not make sense. should all 3 rails be insulated at each end of the block? my spurs are easy to wire as they terminate with a lighted bumper...thanks for any help in advance.