ANOTHER newby track question

[Boonter]

Many thanks, one and all !! Enough food for thought here to keep me busy for a month.
This forum, and this hobby, are proving to be what I've been looking for. A great resource.

[Anonymous]

The easiest way to assure alignment is to glue dowels with tapered ends in one half of the joint & drill matching holes on the other half. Kind of the way that kitchen tables mate up when you insert a leaf.

I prefer the lift-out bridge section myself.

Tony

[lionelsoni]

If you hinge it up, you have to put the center of the hinge pin at or above the railheads, to avoid crushing the rails. This creates a scenic problem. If you hinge it down, you have to create some sort of latch for the free end. In either of these cases and with a removeable bridge, you have to have a reliable way to align the rails at the butt joints. The advantage that I see in the track-pin-to reshaped-rail method is that this alignment is automatic.

Radio shack carries .093" Molex connectors, which are good for 12 amperes. See
http://www.molex.com/cgi-bin/bv/molex/index_login.jsp and click on "Power Connectors". I have also seen them at Fryes, if you have one of them nearby.

[FJ and G]

Simply end the track w/out track pins. Wire up a male and female connector. Use hinges just like a door to make section flip down or don't even need that if you make it removeable.

I don't have a connector in mind. Just get one that will hold about 10 amps of track power. Guys at Radio Shack would know or send an email to Jameco. They are on web.

[lionelsoni]

End the stationary track on each side of the removable bridge with protruding track pins. End the bridge track with several inches of cantilevered rail (no ties close to the end). Reshape the last bit of each bridge rail to an inverted U shape so that it will fit vertically over its mating protruding pin. A little flare to the U makes alignment less tricky. Provide support other than the track pins for the bridge. Bend the bridge rails down very slightly so that each one presses snugly against its mating pin when the bridge is seated, but no so much that the bridge will not seat from its own weight.

[Anonymous]

Check this out for ideas: www.thortrains.com

[Boonter]

Is there a way to build a removable section that will span a door that opens INTO the train room? Something simple and acceptable? I am using tubular track and being inexperienced can't see how this could be done....conviently.

Is there some sort of tubular track that fits together like a 'knife switch'. That is, sliding in from the top rather than end to end.

With my limited available space, I could just about double my layout. Any help much appreciated..........even "you can't get there from here!!"