Hi, I just got my new BNSF Beep today and there is no instruction manual or parts breakdown with it. Is this an oversight? Or by design? If it is by design where can a person get this information? I see no links on their web site for these things. Thanks, Kev.
Hi,
I just got my new BNSF Beep today and there is no instruction manual or parts breakdown with it.
Is this an oversight? Or by design?
If it is by design where can a person get this information? I see no links on their web site for these things.
Thanks,
Kev.
Joined 1-21-2011 TCA 13-68614
Kev, From The North Bluff Above Marseilles IL.
Hello Kev:
RMT BEEPs are basically a simple locomotive. Rather than print an instruction manual to add into box and possibly get lost, all pertinent information such as lubrication, directional control and the new modular electrical contact plugs is printed on the box bottom panel.
Hope this helps.
Enjoy your new BEEP.
Walter M. Matuch/RMT
www.readymadetoys.com
I have 3 of the Beeps manufactured before RMT was acquired by Aristo-Craft, all purchased new, none had any manuals. Not sure if the Beeps manufactured after the acquisition come with operating manual.
Bill T.
No manual with mine either. A drop of oil on the axles and I just let er go.
"IT's GOOD TO BE THE KING",by Mel Brooks
Charter Member- Tardis Train Crew (TTC) - Detroit3railers- Detroit Historical society Glancy Modular trains- Charter member BTTS
Thanks Bill and James,
Nice little engine but it does have the issue they pointed out in the 2006 CTT review when I run it on back to back reversed 027 S curves.
To bad they don't provide instructions or a parts list at least on the web site.
For DougM:
"The pivoting coupler arms are frame mounted, which can lead to problems on O-31 and especially O-27 curves. We tried our sample Beep on our O-27 staff project layout (featured in the December through March issues). On curves, the coupler arm could not swing sufficiently to keep the coupler head centered above the middle rail on. This caused the front truck of the lead freight car of our train to be yanked off the rails."
Guess I will cut some clearance on the ends so it can swing more. For now I can't run it on my 027 loop.
KRM...Coupler clearance problem on earlier BEEPs was fixed with a mold change in 2006. New BEEPs for past 5 years have operated without this problem.
Your information is a bit old and should be updated as it reflects wrongly on all BEEPs.
New 2010 BEEPs also have new circuit board and molex connector plugs to allow better electrical contact between coupled BEEPs and BEEFs with regards to operating over switches and cross tracks.
Thanks.
Kev, Before starting surgery check the centering spring tension on the coupler arm. I had a Docksider that the spring at times would cause me grief similar to yours. On the club layout it was no problem, big wide radius, but it would sometimes have issues with my 027 curves at home.
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Kev, Have you tried contacting RMT? It appears Walter is responding to this thread. He is a very nice guy (met him many times at York and is very helpful). Not sure why you would need a parts list as all of the engines in each type share the same part so you just call/email and tell them what you need. As for the issue, make sure you didn't receive an older engine (old new stock).
Walter thanks for the reply. I had sent the question on the paperwork to your e-mail address from the web site yesterday. That was before I had tried to run this Beep on my 027 loop. I went back to the train layout this morning to do some extensive testing and I found it only seems to have issue with the sections where the 027 curves are back to back in an S formation and it sure looks like shell to coupler interference to me. When I look at it, it seems the coupler is hitting the shell hard. I have tried forward and reverse. Pulling through, pushing through, modern ear cars and postwar cars. All derail in the same place and in the same fashion. In one instance the car remained on the track but the Beep came off. The unfortunate part of this is I purchased this engine for use on this loop. The same problem happens in the back to back switches. Give it a try on some 027 track at your shop and advise. Here are some pictures of the issue. My camera is not the best so please call me with any questions. Please reply to me by PM or the E-mail I sent to you yesterday to discuss further and I can give you my phone #. Thanks again. Kev Here is the curve with issue.
Walter thanks for the reply.
I had sent the question on the paperwork to your e-mail address from the web site yesterday. That was before I had tried to run this Beep on my 027 loop.
I went back to the train layout this morning to do some extensive testing and I found it only seems to have issue with the sections where the 027 curves are back to back in an S formation and it sure looks like shell to coupler interference to me. When I look at it, it seems the coupler is hitting the shell hard.
I have tried forward and reverse. Pulling through, pushing through, modern ear cars and postwar cars. All derail in the same place and in the same fashion. In one instance the car remained on the track but the Beep came off. The unfortunate part of this is I purchased this engine for use on this loop. The same problem happens in the back to back switches.
Give it a try on some 027 track at your shop and advise.
Here are some pictures of the issue. My camera is not the best so please call me with any questions.
Please reply to me by PM or the E-mail I sent to you yesterday to discuss further and I can give you my phone #.
Thanks again.
Kev
Here is the curve with issue.
Thanks DougDG,
Have checked that but that does not look like the root cause.
That reverse curve is very severe Kev. Is it possible to re-align the furthest away track a little and insert a short straight section between the two curved pieces of track? It is usually a better idea, when possible, to have a transition straight in instances like that shown in your pic.
Alan, Oliver & North Fork Railroad
https://www.buckfast.org.uk/
If you don't know where you are going, any road will take you there. Lewis Carroll English author & recreational mathematician (1832 - 1898)
Great Western That reverse curve is very severe Kev. Is it possible to re-align the furthest away track a little and insert a short straight section between the two curved pieces of track? It is usually a better idea, when possible, to have a transition straight in instances like that shown in your pic.
You are correct Great Western, A 027 reverse curve is very sever and is the root cause of this derailment problem. Although a 027 reverse curve is a usable 027 track configuration for most 027 cars and engines. With the table configuration I have it is not possible to make the changes to add in straight track sections without extreme changes so I am stuck with what I have to work with. Walter from RMT was gracious enough to call me on this and suggested I remove some clearance for the uncoupler tab to allow the coupler to move more in each direction. I tried that but it did not provide enough clearance. Walter is correct in stating that the problems on the early Beeps have been corrected on this new Beep. In this instance with my track configuration it does not work so I had to cut out a significant amount of material on both ends of the shell so it can negotiate the reverse curve. I have attached the pictures below showing the amount of modification needed. In the end for my track configuration the Beep can not negotiate the 027 reverse curve. That curve configuration is not the best mind you but it is still a 027configuration none the less. So it is as I learned in my years of engineering at Caterpillar, no matter how much you look at something the customer in the field will find something you missed. I sure hated to hack into a new engine shell but you got to do what you got to do Problem solved! Tks, Kev. Before After Before After
You are correct Great Western,
A 027 reverse curve is very sever and is the root cause of this derailment problem. Although a 027 reverse curve is a usable 027 track configuration for most 027 cars and engines. With the table configuration I have it is not possible to make the changes to add in straight track sections without extreme changes so I am stuck with what I have to work with.
Walter from RMT was gracious enough to call me on this and suggested I remove some clearance for the uncoupler tab to allow the coupler to move more in each direction. I tried that but it did not provide enough clearance.
Walter is correct in stating that the problems on the early Beeps have been corrected on this new Beep.
In this instance with my track configuration it does not work so I had to cut out a significant amount of material on both ends of the shell so it can negotiate the reverse curve. I have attached the pictures below showing the amount of modification needed.
In the end for my track configuration the Beep can not negotiate the 027 reverse curve. That curve configuration is not the best mind you but it is still a 027configuration none the less.
So it is as I learned in my years of engineering at Caterpillar, no matter how much you look at something the customer in the field will find something you missed.
I sure hated to hack into a new engine shell but you got to do what you got to do
Problem solved!
Tks,
Before
Kev,I agree with you that the O27 switch crossover couldn't be corrected, but the track S curve could have been changed quite easily. I think they make 1/2 O27 curves, all you need is two 1/2 O27 curves and a custom length O27 straight to eliminate the S curve.
88,
It is all good, it works now as it should in both the curve and switch.
I am looking into ways to improve my configuration as well with minimal damage to existing scenery. This Sawmill loop was intended for small loco like the Plymouth switcher, Lionel #42, Dockside and this Beep. Most of them are much too slow for the large track.
I am looking into ways to improve my configuration as well with minimal damage to existing scenery.
This Sawmill loop was intended for small loco like the Plymouth switcher, Lionel #42, Dockside and this Beep. Most of them are much too slow for the large track.
Life is full of opportunities, if only one looks.
Kev, even though you had to do some surgery on that little guy you should end up with a pretty good 027 switcher.
Bill, You are correct, now that it has the modifications it is a great little switcher for my 027 loop. As soon as I find the correct green paint to touch it up, it will be fine. I just wished it would of came out of the box working like it does now. Tks, Kev
Bill,
You are correct, now that it has the modifications it is a great little switcher for my 027 loop. As soon as I find the correct green paint to touch it up, it will be fine. I just wished it would of came out of the box working like it does now.
Another question about this nice little engine:
I like to convert it to AC System to works in combination with my K-Line AC-Train Set. Do you have any idea how I have to do this ?
Greetings from Germany
Peter
greetingPeter My youtube channel My garden railroad gallery
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It sure looks sharp, Kev. A great little engine.
Doug Murphy 'We few, we happy few, we band of brothers...' Henry V.
IndianWells Another question about this nice little engine: I like to convert it to AC System to works in combination with my K-Line AC-Train Set. Do you have any idea how I have to do this ? Greetings from Germany Peter
Peter, Welcome
If your K-line set is AC 3 rail it should work. I am not clear on the question but these are made to work on three rail AC like most of the US Lionel and K-line trains. I run mine with a Lionel ZW transformer.
Not sure if this is the answer you need but I hope it helps. they have a good sale on the ones they still have in stock.
Hello Beep-Owners...
hello krm
joop ! My K-Line set is three rail AC. But the Beep I have is three rail DC. Therefore, I ask for a possibility to convert the Beep.
I use a Märklin AC Transformer. Because of the higher voltage (240V) in germany I can't use the original K-Line transformer.
I've had issues with S-curves on O-36 Fastrack and some combinations, the S-curve is the most extreme configuration. Putting a straight section, even a 5" one, in the middle, and the issue is solved.
IndianWells Hello Beep-Owners... hello krm joop ! My K-Line set is three rail AC. But the Beep I have is three rail DC. Therefore, I ask for a possibility to convert the Beep. I use a Märklin AC Transformer. Because of the higher voltage (240V) in germany I can't use the original K-Line transformer. Peter
Peter go to this post.
DC operation to AC operation
If not an e-unit than a a bridge rectifier should do the trick. Maybe?
http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/forums/p/196296/2144167.aspx#2144167
KRM Peter go to this post. DC operation to AC operation If not an e-unit than a a bridge rectifier should do the trick. Maybe? http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/forums/p/196296/2144167.aspx#2144167
@KRM
Thats it ! Thank you !
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