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Uncouple Magnets

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  • Member since
    July 2010
  • From: Hotchkiss, Colorado
  • 294 posts
Uncouple Magnets
Posted by steve24944 on Wednesday, January 4, 2012 9:50 PM

My layout is traditional O-31 tubular track. 

I have picked up some 6019 uncouple tracks that I have pulled out the uncouple magnet + center rail, and spliced them into O-31 track sections so I can switch cars from the main line on to the spur for my 97 coal elevator.  The problem with the standard UCS or 6019 is that  the uncouple magnet needs to be at one end of the control track, not in the middle so when you uncouple the car - the control rails are in position to operate the dump car.    I have placed one magnet on the mainline to uncouple the train.   I made a custom track with control rails to operate the car with the magnet at the end of the control rails for the 97 Coal elevator.

I'm having a problem with the magnets not able to uncouple some of the cars. Sometimes it works OK - sometimes not.  They buzz - but don't open the coupler.  I power the magnets off my B post on my ZW set at 20 volts. Any one else have magnets that can't uncouple the cars ?

Should I try to lube up the couplers with WD-40 or something ?  

Would the uncouple magnets get better performance if run with DC instead of AC ?  I have the magnets on their own circuit and not connected to the outside rail common.

Steve

  • Member since
    October 2011
  • 969 posts
Posted by TrainLarry on Wednesday, January 4, 2012 10:03 PM

Steve,

  If the uncoupling magnets are working, but some couplers don't open, usually it's the knuckle springs that are weak or broken and need to be replaced. Some of the plastic knuckles have a thin plastic "spring" that is part of the knuckle, and the whole knuckle gets replaced.

  The uncouple magnets work fine on AC.  At 20 volts, they should pull the nails out of the wall.

Larry

  • Member since
    July 2009
  • 951 posts
Posted by servoguy on Wednesday, January 4, 2012 10:25 PM

You will find that 5W-20 motor oil will lube everything just fine.  WD-40 will evaporate very quickly.  The oil in grease will also evaporate and the grease will become hard.  Motor oil does not evaporate or become sticky.  I use it on everything and have for 60 years.  The couplers will work better if you lube them.

  • Member since
    July 2010
  • From: Hotchkiss, Colorado
  • 294 posts
Posted by steve24944 on Wednesday, January 4, 2012 10:52 PM

OK  5W-40 ....   Not 10-40 or straight 30 weight ? ...... What about 3:1 oil or sewing machine oil ?  .....   I'll try to add a drop to one and see if it helps.

I'm sometimes reluctant to use oils or lubricants because they can attract grime and dirt.

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • 928 posts
Posted by bfskinner on Thursday, January 5, 2012 11:00 AM

I never use oils or grease on couplers (although I do like 5w-30 synthetic oil on many train parts); rather I use graphite powder in small doses. (Teflon powder works too, but any excess looks like snow.) The advantage is that the powders do not attract and hold dirt and gunk.

Sometimes it is necessary to dis-assemble the coupler parts and clean them thouroughly of gunk and/or a crusty corrosion that one sees sometimes. This hold primarly for metal couplers. The plastic (Delrin?) ones are a different breed. They should be kept clean, but should not need any lubrication. Problems are generally due to weakned plastic-strip springs.

I agree that at 20 volts AC the electromagnets should cause the couplers to snap-open. If all is clean and the springs are good and strong, check the distance between magnet and the part under the coupler (the "armature," as I recall)  that it should attract.

 

bf
  • Member since
    November 2010
  • 993 posts
Posted by gunrunnerjohn on Thursday, January 5, 2012 11:29 AM

20 volts on the coupler coils will also very quickly heat them up and start melting things!  A couple of seconds max with that kind of voltage!

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