Now that my Christmas loop extension is operational, I want to run trains!
If it weren't for my two F3s (and my Budds) nothing would be running on my layout right now.
It seems every steamer I try to run has issues. That includes a 675 (bad noises - sounds like lube issues), 736 (similar), 646 (constant tender derailments at curves, then will not run at all), plus several more; also a GP7 that's stuck in neutral (probably a loose wire?). Strangely a year or two ago, all these ran fine as I recall. ..But the F3s just growl along nicely.
Do postwar Loinel steamers need more and specialized maintainence?
ps - everything was 'lubed' two years ago, and has minimally been run since. ???
Frustrated,
runtime
Shouldn't need much more than a diesel would. The 736 you need to keep the rod mount points well lubed as they "power" the axles, only the rear axle is powered by the motor. Lube does dry somewhat over time, especially if sitting in storage so it would definitely be a good idea to give everything a good cleaning and some fresh lube.
I want to remind you I had a 2025 in storage for 45 years. It was lubed with 20W-40 Valvoline before it was stored. When I took it out of the box, it didn't really need to be lubed, but I did it anyway. I ran it before I lubed it and it ran fine. Motor oil does not dry out or get gummy. Remember, it lives in the crankcase of your car engine, and it can be as hot as 220 deg F, and it doesn't evaporate or get gummy unless you don' t change the oil. The environment that the oil has when it is used to lube a Lionel loco is very benign compared to an automobile engine. I have very little problem with my locos, just the occasional broken wire in the diesels.
Thanks for replying.
This morning I established that my 646 generates a dead short. The engine ran just fine (except that the tender was derailing on some curves), then it just shorted out - by itself, no tender or anything else on the track.
I know I will have to open it up, but what should I look for as the cause? Also, I cannot figure what's causing the tender to derail ( front truck)- there does not seem to be anything binding in the truck or the hookup to the engine. My curves are 031.
Thanks,
If the engine is shorting, then open it up (the 646/2055 series engines are real easy to open, 4 screws and the shell comes right off) and check for any broken wires/solder joints. Also check for any metal debris that may have been picked up by the magnatraction.
Servoguy,
What do you think of using a product called Miracle Mystery Oi? It sort of looks like transmission fluid and is used as an additive for gasoline in older engines ( 100,000 miles +). I have also used Mobil 1 synthetic oil in SMALL amounts.
George
runtime,
For your 646 shorting issue, check the wires to the pickup rollers, at the e-unit, and to the motor. A wire may be broken or frayed and touching the frame. Also, tinsel could have gotten into the unit, possibly shorting out the roller pickups.
Does your GP7 have the e-unit locked in neutral? Have you moved the e-unit lever to see if the e-unit cycles? If it cycles and the loco does not run, then you have a motor issue, or an e-unit issue.
As for the tender derailing, does it derail only when being pulled by the loco? Have you tried pushing it by hand around the curves? Are all wheels lubricated and turning freely? Do the locomotive and tender drawbars both swivel freely? Another reason the tender could derail is if the wheels are not gauged properly (although not too likely).
Keep us posted on what you find. We want those trains running for Christmas!
Larry
The 675 is usually an easy fix, look at the motor frame closely as you turn the wheels watch for where the armature turns. Put a SMALL drop of oil on each end of the armature shaft. Should get you going. Don't forget a drop of oil on the axles and side rods as well. Check the tender trucks for loose or broken wires and oil the wheels. Use a drop of oil on a toothpick if you have nothing else to work with.
"IT's GOOD TO BE THE KING",by Mel Brooks
Charter Member- Tardis Train Crew (TTC) - Detroit3railers- Detroit Historical society Glancy Modular trains- Charter member BTTS
Have you oiled the bolsters on the tender? These are the bearings that allow the trucks to swivel. I have found that most derailing problems can be fixed if everything is well lubed.
I cannot recommend Marvel Mystery Oil because I have no test data on it. We engineers don't like to use stuff for which there is no test data. I have personal data on motor oil, and that is why I use it. The only data I have on grease and 3 in 1 Oil is bad. I also got a recommendation from a retired petroleum engineer not to use synthetic oil as it might damage the paint. So I use the cheap stuff: 5W-20 motor oil.
I bought a nice 736 about 3 years ago that was locked up solid with grease. I softened the grease with WD-40, and the engine ran fine. Then I lubed it with 5W-20, and it still runs fine. BTW, you can use oil to soften grease and then there isn't really any need to remove the grease. Grease is just oil that has been thickened with something like clay. So if it soft again, why remove it?
Just keep in mind that WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. It is a rust preventer so don't use it in place of oil.
It never ceases to amaze me how stuff can break while just sitting in a box!
nickaix It never ceases to amaze me how stuff can break while just sitting in a box!
Amen brother!
Thanks to all for your advice.
I haven't yet had time to implement your suggestions, but after pulling the cover off the 646, I found no loose wires, but the interior seemed generally greasy. I did some prefunctory wiping - still shorting - did some more wiping, particularly around the brush contacts, and the sides of the part of the motor that turns, and suddenly it runs --have no idea why. I'll try degreasing everything in sight with rubbing alcohol. I bought this engine at auction a few years ago - it ran fine then - but the layout has been mostly inactive since.
Will keep you all posted...Happy Holidays,
servoguyGrease is just oil that has been thickened with something like clay. So if it soft again, why remove it?
To remove the contaminants.
Grease is not oil alone. Grease should be clean, so it can mimic it's base oil's lubricating properties under shear without debris or grit. It's a very good idea to clean out old grease(which on our trains could be holding a myriad of 50+ year old junk - from tree tinsel scraps to the fur of a family pet born during WWII).
Rob
Happy Holidays everyone.
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