Dusting post-war collection

[BlackDiamaond]

Before putting my collectibles behind glass, I would like to refresh them by dusting ... they don't require heavy cleaning.

I plan to use microfiber cloths, compressed air and sable brushes.

Is there a problem with using any of the dusting products like Endust?

To give them a new sheen, is there problem with Armor All or Pledge?

If so, what alternatives are suggested?

 

[initagain]

"Collectibles" is the key word here.  If that's what you are intending these items to be, DON'T clean or polish with anything but very mild soap and water.  Even then you have to be careful because of water-soluble decals, and some of the lettering.  They are very fragile. 

I don't pretend to have the utopian answer, but I have always had good luck using a feather duster to get rid of dust, mite-webs and the like.  You can get prettty agressive and not hurt the finish.  If it's ground-in dirt or grease marks, etc. you can use the soap and water treatment, but, again, be very careful, especially with anything painted silver. 

Personally, I think using compressed air is asking for trouble.

Hope this helps.

[overall]

A makeup brush might work also.

[arkady]

I use a soft, broad artist's brush to clean mine.  Do not use products like Armor-all or Pledge.  The other comments recommending nothing more chemically active than mild soap and water are correct.

Some years ago, I bought a 6220.  It was in fine condition (I still have it), but the previous owner had brushed motor oil all over it, so it would look nice and shiny.  Took me weeks to get all that crap off, and I had to replace the Santa Fe decals, which the oil had stained.

 

[Penny Trains]

I agree with everything that's been said.  Except I would note that Ivory liquid HAND soap (as opposed to dishwashing liquid) is what I use because it's pure soap and doesn't have any fragrances in it.  I also only wash body shells this way using nothing more abrasive than a soft toothbrush.  For frames, motors, trucks, etc. I just dust them off and clean the wheels with denatured alcohol on a swab or a rag.

Becky

[wallyworld]

I don't use soap as I have found any soap leaves a residue. I use hot water on a damp cloth and an old soft towel to wipe dry if it's crud versus dust..Q-Tips for those odd spaces. I used detergent once and found that I had to do a dreaded second pass in order to "rinse" it off. as it had an uneven dulling effect.

If not too bad, I use a Radio Shack can of pressurized air to blow off the dust as a preliminary..Less is more in my book.

[sir james I]

For cleaning I have always used liquid dish soap on a soft tooth brush. You must be careful not to scrub decals and only scrub softly on lettering. If old decals are involved you may not want to get water on them at all. As for a finish, on locos only WD-40 wiped on with a rag. It is not a wax but will protect and shine a little for awhile.

[EIS2]

arkady

Do not use products like Armor-all or Pledge.

I have used Pledge on my postwar locos and cars for years with no adverse affects.  The Pledge will give the locos a shine (which I like) for a while which eventually fades.    I spray the Pledge on the loco and don't wipe any of it off.  The wet look will disappear after a day and the loco takes on a new, out-of-the-box look.

I am not a purist collector, but I have never seen any damage due to the application of Plege and it is very easy to apply.

Earl

[RockIsland52]

I am an operator, not a collector.  I do not sell anything.  I am solidly in Earl's camp in this discussion as it relates to the use of Pledge.  I've been using it for 50 years without a single problem.  Painted plastic, stamped metal, or diecast.

I also agree with the advice that less is more, better to take more than one pass with the least amount of challenge to the original paint, trim, decals, and numbering. 

The key here is for you to determine what is important to you now and down the track.  If investment is your passion, that's one thing.  If you are concerned with resale, the same is true.  But if you plan to be an operator, and you care about appearance now, your direction here might be quite different.   

Virtually all of my Postwar pieces are from 1950s childhood, so they have been run, run a lot. They look amazingly good all things considered (vagaries of youth).  In my 1950s childhood, I was not much into anything more than gently wiping down the pieces with either white cotton t-shirts or cotton diapers.  My Dad taught me how to carefully wipe off fingerprints and lubricant residue.  Then when not in use, wrap the pieces in clean white cotton and keep them in closed, separate boxes (not the original boxes).

Then in the early 1960s, when I was about 10, appearance became inportance to me.  I and my friends began carefully using Pledge and also a mild Bon-Ami aerosol foam with no issues.  Not sure if the white Bon-Ami foam is still sold.  We would clean with the Bon-Ami and seal with the Pledge. 

After about twenty years in use the trains were stored away.  Coming back out of a couple decades of (less than perfect) storage, I used an initial mild soap and (room temperature) water washing.   Air dry.   I also used most of the aforementioned tools (and others) to carefully get into the nooks and crannies.  Then I applied the original formula Pledge. 

For the past 2 decades, I have only periodically had to use Pledge on my modest collection to keep the apperance up.  The patina on my pieces is neither dull nor overkill shiny, close to original.  I only use the "original" formula Pledge, not the long list of fragranced or "deep cleaning" variations in the Pledge product line.  

I run most of my pieces.  No restoration or repaints.  Yes, a discreet touch up here and there to mitigate the evidence of pileups from 50-55 years ago.  None of my pieces are rare Postwar collectibles in any sense.  Nor would any of my runnners be considered higher than a say C6-7.  I do have three engines (with original boxes) that have been lightly run over the decades that might rate a C8.  But to the uninformed or the less experienced, my 50-60 year old pieces look near new to them.

Now here is "the rub". 

I have no intention of selling any of my pieces.  Personally, I don't care what these might be worth to my family after I am gone.  I don't care what they might be worth to a collector or interested party who might downgrade a piece because of the product I might have used over the decades maintaining the appearance.  But that is me.

Jack

[Wabashbud]

I have a 1666 that Santa brought me in 1946.  It has recently been revitalized with the motor receiving new  brushes and springs and a good soaking in paint thinner.  The boiler was washed in dish soap and water.  After air drying the boiler looked almost grey and dull.  I wiped it down with WD-40 and the color came back and the finish now looks great with a slight sheen.  That was done about 12 months ago and it still runs like new and looks outstanding.  Of course the small dings and scratches remain.

[RockIsland52]

Wabashbud

I have a 1666 that Santa brought me in 1946.  It has recently been revitalized with the motor receiving new  brushes and springs and a good soaking in paint thinner.  The boiler was washed in dish soap and water.  After air drying the boiler looked almost grey and dull.  I wiped it down with WD-40 and the color came back and the finish now looks great with a slight sheen.  That was done about 12 months ago and it still runs like new and looks outstanding.  Of course the small dings and scratches remain.

Wabashbud.........every mark and imperfection on my stuff has a story to go with it and a link to the past.  A rolling history.  My oldest engine is a 2046 Hudson from 1950.

Jack

[rtraincollector]

I'm a little of both a collector and a seller. I collect to make my collection what I want ( now I'm a runner also I don't collect to just admire them) I buy a lot of times as I know I can resell for a profit to obtain something I want for my collection.

Right now my collection isn't that big I have like 4 engines and about 20 cars and thats it. ( the items I want to keep) I have other items up for sale on ebay I bought thinking I could make a profit or something I wanted at the time but decided later no it wasn't really for me.

My taste has changed drastically over the past 3 years I would say. Especially it took a turn when I happened to get 5 atlas 33,000 Gal tank cars and saw how big they where ( I happened to sell one and regret doing that but thats that.) and by chance I got Lionel 18953 and saw big and long they where so I now have two of them and two of there B units ( one is Lionel the other is a Williams by Bachmann that I added handrails and lights and coil couplers to and a mini commander tmcc board by ERR.

I'm not really worried if they have marks on them as that to me adds to them as in real life there not perfect other than the ones new or right out of the repair shop. I even like a little dirt on them not dust do thick you can blow it off but a light amount as it adds to the look of realism again real ones are dirty so I guess I may get a few cheap ones and try my hand a weathering down the road not right now thou. I do at present like keeping them as original as possible.

[M. Mitchell Marmel]

The secret is to keep 'em moving so's they don't COLLECT dust in the first place! ;)

-MMM-