Check for continuity through the circuit breakers. They may have tripped and not reset properly, or the contacts are dirty/pitted. On the 1033's, check for power at terminals A-B and B-C. If power at A-B but not B-C, circuit breaker is open.
Larry
Did you check continuity through the primary windings? This applies to the one that doesn't hum.
As Major suggests, check the reversing switch.
Also, I had a problem with one KW I have. The whistle controller has contacts which must work for the power to get to the terminals. Check the continuity from the A terminal to the U terminal on the 1033s. Unplug the transformer before you try this. If it shows open circuit, you are going to have to open the transformer and check the continuity.
I just had a similiar issue with a Flyer 12B transformer. The problem I discovered was in the reversing push button not makeing good contact. A little cleaning took care of it. Check the equivalent switch on the Lionel transformer.
I hope someone can help with some problems I'm having with several postwar transformers. Although I've been into quite a number of them over the last several years, including ZW's kW'z R's RW's, L's TW's and 1033's; I'm having toruble with two R's and a couple of 1033's.
Usually all it takes is a new cord, wiring repairs, terminal connection, cleaning and rollers, and they are humming again.
The two R's recently got new cords; they humm nicely; but the thottle does not. There is no activation as voltage is increased. If however, I attach wires to constant power terminals the trains will run. The throttle connection from the handle down to the core is tight and in both cases unaltered from the original assembly. Does anybody have any experience with this probelm and/or ideas?
The two 1033's have similar problems, however, one does not even humm, even though it has a brand new cord that I installed. I'm not bragging, but I can solder very well and just say this in order to assure that my solder connections are good. Again, any ideas on why the transformer seems "dead", and solutions?
Any information you share may be very useful to all. Incidentally, a couple of the R's were worked on by an electrician and said to be working. Is there anything in the internal workings that need to be reset, adjusted or looked at?
Thanks again to anyone that can provide a solution.
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