For now it's holdiing with Krazy Glue but that sounds like a reasonable alternative if the glue doesn't hold long term. Thanks
If you end up replacing the truck, you can use an 8-32 machine bolt instead of a rivet. put the head of the bolt inside the car; the nut will fit right up into the hollow section in the underside of the truck--keeps it from spinning off during operation. It's not as neat a job as a rivet, but it works.
Thanks .... tried the krazy glue for now. Will advise if it works ... planning to run it last car before the caboose... less stress ...we'll see. Thanks again for all the suggestions.
Well, the first step is to get the truck rivet off. If you are going to put a new truck on, I recommend cutting the old one away and then dealing with the rivet. Without a tool to hold the rivet from spinning, it'll be difficult to drill the rivet out and not damage the shell. I have this kit to do that job, when you read the description, they have an anvil to prevent the rivet from spinning as you drill it.
Brakeman's Riveter
I did check the assembly last evening and Gunrunnerjohn is right as I also suspected. The entire truck has to be replaced. Trainlarry .. the rivet you refer to is part of the issue. The plastic around the pin is broken preventing the coupler from locking. The only other possibility short of replacing the truck is to Krazy Glue the coupler in place and hope it holds. If that doesn't work, what tools are needed to replace the truck???
The coupler part of the truck consists of the stationary part of the coupler, and the top and bottom portions of the hinges for the knuckle where the rivet goes through. These parts are molded in one piece and are part of the truck assembly. The movable knuckle has one part where the rivet goes through. The knuckle rivet does not have to be set over with a tool for the coupler to work. With a new rivet installed, just slightly deform the end of the rivet with a pliers, and you're done.
What is the number of your giraffe car? Some of them were made with one dummy (non-operating) coupler. Your last post sounds like a description of a dummy coupler. Does the truck you are describing have a tab to manually open the coupler?
Larry
If the fixed part of the coupler is broken, then it's a whole different ballgame, you need a new truck! It's a lot harder to get those off, I've just done four of them to do a repaint of a couple of cars. It's also tricky to get the new truck rivets properly set without the right tools.
I have to take a closer look at this assembly. I thought the rivet you seak of was the on that secures the truck assembly to the car frame. At last glance it appeared that the plastic coupler was moulded to the truck body itself. Will check it and get back.
Before I got the rivet kit, I used to replace those couplers with just wire clippers and a centerpunch. You can crush the end of the rivet and put it out, then install the new knuckle and new rivet. Back the head of the rivet on a metal object like the back of a vise, and use the centerpunch and a small hammer to spread the new rivet.
srguy,
Yes, that is the only way to repair the coupler. It is not hard to do, but if you do not have the tools, then just bring it to a repair shop. It is not an expensive or difficult repair, and they may do it while you wait. Be happy you do not have to replace the truck!
You're right . it's the hinge that broke. Sounds complicated especially since I'm not familiar with installing new rivets. Is this the only way to repair this part??
The CTT Staff of Kalmbach Publishing and CTT Forum members are great and helpful people.
Enjoy,
Ralph
Thanks for all the suggestions. To clear a few things up, the broken part is the the piece that actually opens. The plastic that "wraps" arround the pin is broken preventing the coupler from locking. It appears to me that the truck body and the coupler are one moulded piece. If I'm not seeing it correctly, please let me know. I'm not terribly concerned about removing the truck (very good ideas from the forum thank you) but how would I replace it. Do I need a special tool??? There is a train show scheduled locally next month so I'm pretty confident I will be able to find a replacement part but am concerned about how to install. Suggestions are welcomed ...
Just an aside, this forum has been one of the central reasons I have been expanding my layout which sat dormant in my basement for 15 years. Participation is great ... thanks.
I have the Brakeman's Rivet Kit, and it has a special anvil to prevent the rivet from spinning while you drill it out. That's the only way I've been able to get them out without destroying the truck.
I've also found the rivets are far too hard to crush with pliers, at least all the ones I've run across are.
Another method is to bend up the peened-over end of the rivet all around with a needle nosed pliers and then using a hammer and a very small diameter punch, the rivet can be driven out of the truck and the frame.
I have never been able to bend back the rolled edge of a truck rivet. Lionel used a rivet made from a very hard material for the truck.Lionel used rivets made from softer materials for many other applications. I find that sometimes these other rivets can be bent as described above.
Maybe my technicque is wrong. How do you do it?
If the "locking mechanism" you describe is just the coupler plunger with the 'thumbtack' armature, then it can be replaced without removing the truck from the frame. It just snaps out, and a new one snaps in. A new operating knuckle can also be replaced without truck removal. Removing the rivet to change the truck can be a tedious job. Sometimes drilling them out does not work, as the rivet will spin along with the drill. Trying to hold the rivet head while drilling is a trick. I believe someone offers a special tool to help hold these rivets while drilling them out. Another method is to bend up the peened-over end of the rivet all around with a needle nosed pliers and then using a hammer and a very small diameter punch, the rivet can be driven out of the truck and the frame. Yet another way is to use a Dremel tool with a thin grinding wheel to grind the peened end down until you can remove the truck. As a last resort that I have used, use a diagonal cutter to cut and break the truck from around the rivet, then use the cutter to cut the peened end off the rivet. Drastic, but it worked.
Try Jeff Kane's "The Train Tender," in upstate N.Y., he knows how to repair/replace the item(s), plus he has the parts,.
http://www.ttender.com/
Good Luck,
The coupler parts can be replaced. If the truck has to be removed the best way is to drill out the rivet from the bottom. If the truck is no good heat will not matter, but a truck you want to save must be drilled out carefully as the heat will melt part of the plastic truck.
"IT's GOOD TO BE THE KING",by Mel Brooks
Charter Member- Tardis Train Crew (TTC) - Detroit3railers- Detroit Historical society Glancy Modular trains- Charter member BTTS
Had a minor accident and damaged the coupler on a lionel giraffe car circa 1987. The locking mechanism appears to be damaged beyond repair and when I removed the car body I discovered that the one piece plastic truck is riveted to the metal frame. How does one replace a truck of this design???
Suggestions please.
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