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Repairing Modern Era Pennsy Flyer

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Repairing Modern Era Pennsy Flyer
Posted by gottcent on Saturday, November 5, 2011 5:14 PM

An acquaintance brought over a modern Lionel 561 PRR steam engine (from Pennsy Flyer set # 6-30089) because he says it "just stopped running." The headlight works, but track power from either a modern or postwar transformer has no other effect. My questions are: 1) any tips on how best to remove the shell, and 2) any thoughts on what to look for in the way of repairs?

I've done a number of repairs on postwar items but this is my first venture into the modern era. Any ideas will be appreciated.

John Gottcent

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Posted by lionelsoni on Saturday, November 5, 2011 6:12 PM

It might be as simple as a broken wire.  Otherwise, lasciate ogne speranza, voi ch'intrate.

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Posted by jeffrey-wimberly on Saturday, November 5, 2011 6:25 PM

Do the newer ones have what I think is called a reversing or neutral switch? A friend of mine has a diesel that has one. He has his layout set up so the signals stop and start t6he trains. Every time the power on this locos track was cut the loco went into neutral. When the signal went green and the track power came back it would just sit there. He finally figured it out and set the switch to forward.

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Posted by ADCX Rob on Saturday, November 5, 2011 7:19 PM

Check the wiring to the reverse(e-unit) lock-out switch and the switch itself.

Pennsylvania Flyer Manual

Then check all wiring to the electronic reverse unit, and the two wires from the circuit board to the motor.

Disconnect one wire from the motor and test the motor alone with alligator clips and a 9 volt battery.

If the wiring is intact, then it is the reverse unit or the motor.

 

Rob

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Posted by rtraincollector on Saturday, November 5, 2011 7:29 PM

they have what is called a electronic E-Unit and yes if the switch some how got thrown it could happen but not likely in this case as he said it was running down the track and just stopped.

not sure if this is any help but heres a link to a list of parts in there

http://www.lionel.com/CustomerService/ReplacementParts/index.cfm?doAction=productPartFilter&number=6308662001&productID=b254a8bd-3e50-493d-888c-6fa537179185

Now as been said look for a loose wire to get shell off It usually just 4 screws I believe 2 up by front pilot wheels and 2 towards the rear near the trailing truck.

But as Jeffery said check the switch for reverse unit first to make sure it didn't accidental get hit some how think it is located under the cab area.

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Posted by ADCX Rob on Saturday, November 5, 2011 9:46 PM

rtraincollector

...not likely in this case as he said it was running down the track and just stopped...

Where did you see that?  You got a lot more out of the original post than I did!

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Posted by gunrunnerjohn on Sunday, November 6, 2011 8:53 AM

Worst case here is the $15 reversing board, it's a standard product.

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Posted by rtraincollector on Sunday, November 6, 2011 9:29 AM

I guess I read more than was there lol he said it just stopped so I guess I figured it was running down the track and stopped Who knows when I typing these things I don't seem to remember it all 100% lol

gottcent

he says it "just stopped running."

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Posted by gottcent on Sunday, November 6, 2011 4:02 PM

Thanks for the tips, folks. I've removed the shell and checked for loose wires. Also cleaned the pickup rollers and wheels. It now runs occasionally (better in reverse than forward), but still wants to get stuck in neutral.

John

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Posted by TrainLarry on Sunday, November 6, 2011 9:00 PM

 Unsolder the wires to the motor, reverse them, and tack solder them back in place. I f the loco still runs better in reverse, the motor is bad. If the loco runs better in forward now, the board is bad. If the board still locks out in neutral, the switch or the board may be bad. Unsolder the wires to the switch, and check for normal operation of the board. This would simulate the "off" position of the switch. Now twist the bare ends of the wire together, and check for normal operation of the board again, simulating the "on" position of the switch. If your neutral lockout problem goes away, the switch is bad. If it still occurs, the board, or possibly a bad motor may be the problem.

Larry

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