I have a couple of ALCO FA's that are dealing me a fit. One appears to be wired correctly, and in one direction (reverse) the motor runs fine. The reversing unit cycles perfectly, but then in forward the motor more or less freezes up and starts smoking. In some cases it will run a little bit forward (not on the tracks) and VERY slowly, then stop and start smoking.
That's really about it. Does anyone have any ideas. I will be really grateful, because I'm really stumped.
Prairietype.
If the Alco is an older one with the open frame AC/DC motor, check the gearing, but first make sure everything in the e-unit is good. Make sure the drum is in good shape and not worn, and the contacts are not worn, pitted, or shorting together. Then make sure it is wired properly. If everything is good so far, remove the brushplate by unsoldering the wires and lifting it off slowly, so not to lose the brushes. Pull out the armature, and then push the locomotive back and forth to see that there is no binding in the gearing. You can also turn the wheels by hand now, and get a feel for the gearing in both directions. If this is good, put the armature back in and turn the armature by hand a number of turns in either direction. The gears and wheels should turn freely as you spin the armature by hand in both directions. Any problem here should be investigated. Usually the gear cut into the armature shaft wears, and the entire armature needs to be replaced. If all the gearing is good, and the loco still fails to run properly under power, a serious second look at the e-unit is in order. Isolate the motor by disconnecting the e-unit wires, and power the motor up directly, reversing the field or brush wires to get the motor to run in the opposite direction. If it runs properly here in both directions, the e-unit or its wiring is at fault.
Larry
Prarie...........do you have the brand of engine and the number that appears on the running board lights? That would help narrow the scope down to your particular engine and year.
i.e..... Lionel 2023 which is the postwar Lionel Union Pacific FA Alco made first in 1950 and came as a AA pair, one powered and one an unpowered dummy unit. There are a lot of FA Alcos of every configuration and era out there made by different manufacturers in different years, all the way to the near present.
Jack
IF IT WON'T COME LOOSE BY TAPPING ON IT, DON'T TRY TO FORCE IT. USE A BIGGER HAMMER.
Jack,
This is one of the budget chassis, of which there were about 20 all told. It is not one of the 2023 types.
The power truck and motor is a two axle magnetraction with an armature shaft port in the bottom of the polished metal base of the motor. It has a double wound field. With this, I can narrow down which particular locomotive it was. I do think I have it wired right, according to the Greenberg schematic. And as mentioned in my original post the motor spins up strong in reverse, locks up or barely runs in forward while the truck is held just above the track.
Larry (above) mentions the possibility of wear on the armature gear shaft, and there is some apparent contact or abrasion on the bottom baseplate of the motor. I do not see where there is any kind of spacing thrust washed indicated for the bottom of the armature shaft. So, I wonder if there is a specific armature for these motors, and maybe I have the wrong armature for this 200 series "type.".
I have other ALCO's and I could experiment by switching armatures and see if one of them operates/spins normally in this motor.
I am unfamiliar with the motors in the 200 series Alcos. But a whole host of guys on the forum are. They will be able to jump in here and help you out.
The problem with this type motor is usually that the lower bearing plate is floating in the stamped aluminum motor side frames as the factory staking has worked loose over the years. The old Lionel fix for this was to "dent" the side frames with a punch, some shops used cardstock jammed in to firm up the plate.
I have had good luck using tiny black anodized self-tapping screws into drilled pilot holes to hold the bearing in place.
For a non-destructive fix, this method has worked best for me:
Using CRC QD or any non-residue contact cleaner, clean ALL oil & residue from between the sideframes & the bearing, using the nozzle to spray into the crevice. Dry it out well, several hours or overnight.
Now use the regular "thin"(not gel) CA adhesive("Super Glue", Eastman 910, etc.) and flow the cement into the crevice on both sides, letting it creep in by capillary action to fill the gap.
In about 10 minutes, the loco is ready to be lubed(grease on gears, oil on pivots & bearings/axles) and will run like new.
Rob
I fixed a loco with a loose housing years ago. I took a pair of needle nose pliers and grabbed the aluminum side plates near the housing. I twisted the housing (put a z bend in it) to cause the side plates to move closer to the housing. Very quick and easy.
These motors often have a problem running in one direction. The thrust caused by the worm gear moves the armature up or down depending on which way the motor is turning. It is necessary that you make sure the thrust bearings do not allow the armature to contact some part of the housing. One thing that I have done is to assemble the motor without the brushes. Then it is easy to see where the armature is rubbing the housing.
BB
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