Jack,
I'm sorry to read that the screw cracked.
Is it possible, it was cross threaded, or unless the screw froze in the opening, which means that some dampness affected it?!
Who, knows?
Whether, proper spring tension of the pilot wheel truck attached, or the pilot truck removed, the weight of the engine and the clearance of the cowcatcher coming in contact with the center rail, was still insufficient .
That, is why someone filed a groove in the cowcatcher's bottom edge. I checked and I still had to file some more and put electrical tape, on that spot.
Ralph
Ralph.....it still worked for you using the weight!!!! I love my 2046 with the 2048W tender. I like the detail versus the 646 and the 2056. It runs like a precision timepiece and can pull a ton of cars.
The only reason I replaced the pilot truck spring was because I was having two issues up front: the derailment of the front pilot truck around the curves, and as you aptly pointed out, the cow catcher was shorting out on the track, inadequate clearance. The latter had been happening only occasionally since my childhood but started to get worse. Why rush these repairs and adjustments. Harry Truman was President when this engine was built!!!!
When I went to remove the pilot truck, the pilot screw wouldn't budge, albeit with light effort. And since the screw was only in there for a mere 60 years , I figured some penetrating oil and patience would be in order.
Nope. I snapped the pilot screw clean off with very little effort. I theorize it was either weak or cracked. Or the screw was defective. You'd think these parts would hold up longer than 60 years.
So I had to drill out the screw shaft, re-thread the screw hole, and while I was at it was fortunate to discover my local Lionel shop had an appropriate replacement pilot screw that fit as well as a replacement pilot spring.
Jack .
IF IT WON'T COME LOOSE BY TAPPING ON IT, DON'T TRY TO FORCE IT. USE A BIGGER HAMMER.
My mistake.
Thank you for pointing out the differences.
What, I should have said is: the "PILOT"---front, or lead truck, as the '"Cowcatcher" is also known as the "Pilot"----LEAD.
Pony truck, from what I just found out, is a Pilot/front truck with only two wheels.
My wife bought me the 2046 engine, as second hand and someone, before me, filed a groove in the bottom edge of the cowcatcher, I imagine to prevent an electrical short with the powered center rail, of 'O'/'027' Gauge track.
Due, to the pilot truck's compression spring lacking tension, is the reason I used a penny, to weigh down the pilot truck and prevent it from derailing.
Train-O srguy, Sometimes the engine's weight may be distributed differently, from one engine to the next. My 2046 steamer's pony wheels kept derailing, just as the engine entered a curve, the weight of the engine would lean, while it negotiated the curve and this caused the pony wheels to lift up and off of the rails. My solution, was to tape a penny on the pony's wheel bracket, and this resulted in the wheels staying on track. Ralph
srguy,
Sometimes the engine's weight may be distributed differently, from one engine to the next.
My 2046 steamer's pony wheels kept derailing, just as the engine entered a curve, the weight of the engine would lean, while it negotiated the curve and this caused the pony wheels to lift up and off of the rails.
My solution, was to tape a penny on the pony's wheel bracket, and this resulted in the wheels staying on track.
Ralph.......do you mean the pilot truck wheels? I seem to recall I had to replace the springs on my 2046 when I was having an issue with derailing.....the old original spring had no "spring" left in it.. I also seem to recall I added a very slim shim between the pilot truck assembly and the frame bracket to get a little more clearance between the cow catcher and the track.
Jack
Thanks for all the suggestions .... problem solved! After lubricating every moving part in the coupling assembly the derailing continued. The track was only possible cause so I pulled the curve track and found that the center rail was bent upward. Replaced the track which solved the derailing. It's interesting to note that the track did not affect any of the other engines. Go figure.
I have had a problem on occasion with the coupler on the engine not swiveling easily enough and derailing the following car. One of these days, when I get all my trains out of the boxes they are in, I will rework the coupler to make it work better. I want it to center when it is not coupled, and to swivel easily when coupled. These are two opposing requirements.
BB
Lee that means calling Bachmann and I wish you luck getting thru. Your better off talking to a dealer especially if you bought them from a dealer that stocks Williams. I have had more non return calls from them and non return emails from them I can only remember one time I got an email from them and then was told to call them which was worthless as all I could get was answering machines/voice mail.don't get me wrong I think they have a great product and stand behind it the best but talking to them is worthless and going to there web site all you bet from the forum guy is we answer all the calls and email well for some reason mine never seem to get answered.
Life's hard, even harder if your stupid John Wayne
http://rtssite.shutterfly.com/
A few questions before being able to help solve your problem. 1) Did you buy the engines brand new or are they used? 2) What brand is the passenger car behind the Williams F-3 diesel? If the engines are brand new, call Williams Service department, I would recommend calling Williams, as they have helped me with a switch issue. The reason I mention about the brand of passenger car is because I have had a problem with a Williams GP-9 and a Lionel passenger car that kept coming apart, problem was the heigth of the knuckle couplers not matching 100%. Make sure your track is level, as well, as that can cause some uncoupling problems when using differant brands of rolling stock or engines.
Lee F.
The faster the speed the earier they derail ..... I'll work on the swivels.
Your on the right track,, it's usually the swivel not turning freely.
"IT's GOOD TO BE THE KING",by Mel Brooks
Charter Member- Tardis Train Crew (TTC) - Detroit3railers- Detroit Historical society Glancy Modular trains- Charter member BTTS
It might be the couplers! I've only had the engine set since Tuesday this week and did experience some issues with the couplers releasing. I spoke with the techs at Williams and I decided to lubricate the pin and the coupler itself which so far has solved that issue. I'll work on the swivel to see if I can loosen it up a bit. Since derailing at this particular point on the layout is not a problem with any of the other 4 engines it would follow that something is wrong with the new engine.
Maybe the coupler(s), at the point of derailment, might not be swiveling freely, or maybe one, or more wheels may have a hump on it, at the same location?
I had a diesel with a slightly bent wheel flange, unnoticed at first, but was detected at a closer inspection.
Good Luck,
I just purchased a Williams F3 AA which looks and runs great. I am however experiencing a chronic derailing problem. The first car behind the dummy keeps derailing at the same point on an O31 curve track. I've tried several different combos including new and pw Lionel rolling stock. It doesn't seem to be a problem with the PW O27 passenger cars (much heavier). I did experience something similar with another Williams engine however it was easily remedied by shimming the problem track. This particular track appears to be level and it isn't an issue with any of my other engines (Lionel and Williams). This new AA seems to negotiate all other curves with no issues ..... any thoughts on what might be happening or how to remedy?
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