Thanks to all for the information. I'm sure I will get them all working.
Mike
To resolve the problem described at the beginning, I soldered a little piece of solid wire across the open end of the V. I don't thik there is anytrhing to pull out. just strip the end of a wire long enough to bridge the "V", solder, then stip the end.
I looked at my #26 bumper, which is the same bumper, other than the metal stop. I do not see any reason why you could not try and gently pull the tab out. I do not know how much it will help. You may have better luck going through where the red cap is and use a flat head screwdriver to try and push down and flatten out the piece of brass. This should push the "V" tab back out.
It is just a piece of brass riveted to the bottom of the bumper. I hope some of that made sense.
They are similar 14.4-volt miniature bayonet G-3.5 lamps. The 363 draws 200 milliamperes, puts out 1.4 MSCP, and lasts 250 hours. The 53 draws 120 milliamperes, puts out 1 MSCP, lasts 1000 hours, and is easier to find, at Radio Shack, for example.
Bob Nelson
I've moved it for him...
Darren (BLHS & CRRM Lifetime Member)
Delaware and Hudson Virtual Museum (DHVM), Railroad Adventures (RRAdventures)
My Blog
Mike - You posted to the 'real' train forum - You need to post your question in the Classic Toy Train Forum....
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
I have two variations of the bumper. I know that the rear feet are of a different size due to track size issues. The problem I am having is with the version with the "V" tab that makes contact with the middle rail. I have a few where the tab does not touch the middle rail. Do I pull/bend the tab to correct this? Also the 260 requires a #53 bulb. Some that I have contain a #363 bulb. Are these two bulbs the same? Thank You. Mike
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