Paint removal

[Happy Days]

I have a 1992 lionel GP-38 rail club engine and am trying to remove the factory paint.  An article in the March 2011CTT told about soaking in laundry detergent for about three weeks or better, but after three months no results.  Does anyone have an idea how I can remove the paint without  dstroyng the engine? 

[SantaFe158]

I've never done it, but I think  a soaking in automotive brake fluid is usually recommended for that job.  I believe it was safe on the plastic but I'm not quite sure so you may want to wait for somebody else to post before trying it.

[KRM]

Yep,

Automotive brake fluid works fine. I did a ALCO 202 Shell that we had hand painted as kids. Took awile but did it.

Kevin

[KRM]

I should say test a small area with a brush first to see if your plastic is ok with the brake fluid. My shell was from 1957 so, Can't say for sure if it will work on the plastic they used in 1992

Kevin

[Bob Keller]

In the July 2011 Q&A we ran reader submitted ideas regarding paint removal. For those of you without a copy of that issue, here is the text:

 

Readers write on paint removal

In the March 2011 issue of Classic Toy Trains, we discussed removing paint prior to repainting. Several readers shared their techniques: 

James Hehman suggests using Dio-Sol: “I removed paint from some Lionel Geeps about 15 years ago by using Floquil Dio-Sol. I put the solvent on a rag and rubbed it on the surface of the shell until the paint came off. Then I soaked the shell in water overnight and repainted it. The Dio-Sol took off the colors without damaging the body and it took the paint off down to the shell.

(Editor’s note: Dio-Sol is no longer manufactured. Testor no. 8824 Universal Enamel Thinner is an alternative.)

Larry Middleton and George Miller suggest trying brake fluid: George notes, “I use brake fluid. It works well on both plastic and metal and does not harm the plastic. For large areas, immerse the car for a few hours in brake fluid and then wash it with warm water and a soft brush. If the paint is thick, it may require several applications or even overnight soaking in a container of brake fluid. 

For small places, apply a small amount of the fluid with a rag, let it soak for a few minutes, then rub with another fluid-soaked rag.” 

Larry adds, “I’ve had good success with regular DOT 3 automotive brake fluid. Just fill an old baking tin to cover half the body shell with the brake fluid and let it soak about a day or so, turning it over every so often. Use an old toothbrush to remove the crinkled-up paint, and wash the model with soap and water. Wear gloves and eye protection!”

(Editor’s note: CTT does not recommend using brake fluid as a solvent – it creates a household hazardous waste disposal issue, if nothing else – but over the years, we have heard of hobbyists successfully using this technique.)

Stacy Gardner suggests a product called Krud Kutter: “I’ve stripped several Lionel F3 shells using Krud Kutter, a non-toxic, biodegradable, concentrated cleaner degreaser/stain remover and a stiff bristle brush. 

“Do not use a wire brush, steel wool, or a Brillo-type pad on the shell; they will damage the plastic. Simply spray on the Krud Kutter, let it set a few moments, and then brush the model. Be sure to rinse the shell with clean warm water.

“I’ve found that on Santa Fe F3s the silver is the easiest to remove. Next easiest is the red, and the hardest is the nose decal. Soak the decal in hot water briefly and then scrape it off with your fingernail. Repeat as needed.

“You will see the red and silver plaint under the decal, and that comes off easily with more spray and the brush. Should you find any small scratches on the shell, try to rub them with terry cloth and an auto rubbing compound. Rub and then use the spray, brush, and warm water to remove any waxy coating, especially if you want to do a repaint.” 

(Editor’s note: Krud Kutter is available at many home or hardware stores, or online at amazon.com.)

[gunrunnerjohn]

I use oven cleaner and allow it to "cook" overnight, strips the paint really well.

[teledoc]

I personally use "Castrol- Super Clean", which can be purchased at Auto parts stores, and Walmart.  It is cheaper price at Walmart.  I have stripped 3 diecast locos and it requires that you use it FULL STRENGTH, to remove the paint.  I have had luck with a soaking of 8 hours, and then getting the crevices cleaned with an old toothbrush.  Once you are satisfied with the stripping, clean it again under soapy water, and a finish of Isopropyl Alcohol (NOT Denatured Alcohol) before repainting.  Isopropyl Alcohol does not have any petroleum additives, which the denatured does have.

Jerry