From the symptoms you describe, it sounds like the E unit is OK but that the switch lever is not making good contact with the rivet. Look at the switch lever and see it it makes good contact with the rivet. If it doesn't, what I have done is to remove the E unit but leave the wiring intact. Move the lever until the arm that contacts the rivet is in a position where it can be bent slightly. Be careful bending it. It doesn't take much. What happens here is the circuit board that holds the rivet bends and takes a permanent set over the years. I have fixed several of them this way.
BB
I'd still go with the Dallee unit, they come with complete documentation, buying the Lionel part all you get is the part, you have to scrounge up the documentation.
You can use the Lionel reverse unit that is used with the Pulmore Conventional Classic engines. The part number is 691ACMC103. The Williams unit is for DC can motors and while you might be able to wire it to work, the Lionel reverse unit would be a much better choice. Go to Lionel.com and click on "customer services".
Pete
Did you download the order form: http://www.dallee.com/PDFs/Price_list.pdf
On that form is all you need to know to order any of their stuff.
The Dalle looks like a good replacement but I can't find a way to order it. If you have any knowledge about how to order it please let me know.
Can't stop working on the railroad!
Will do thanks
Yes, there is no problem using the TrueBlast II with any conventional locomotive. Just connect the pickup and ground and then the speaker, job done.
Thanks for the advice all, I have gotten parts from Jeff before and I know he has almost everything so I will be getting another E-Unit to replace it. Still does anyone know if I can wire up a Williams True Blast II Horn/Bell up the PW Diesel?
Here's my 2 cents for what it's worth.
I totally disagree with the opinion it's not worth it and here's why.
In my opinion the easiest solution is to replace the e-unit with either a NOS original, rebuilt original or reproduction. It's a simple unscrew, unsolder, solder and screw it back in place. There are many Lionel parts dealers that carry them. My favorite and the one I use for all of my Lionel parts is Jeff Kane at The Train Tender, www.ttender.com. Just tell him what you need and he'll help you out.
You can re-build or repair yours but first you need to know what's broken. It sounds like the lever has come loose and loses contact with the contact point on the fiber board. It can be tightened but to do that job right you need to disassemble the unit, and re-press the rivet that holds it in place or position the blade of a screwdriver between the rivet and the coil and lightly tap it using a punch. If you are not careful the round spring underthe rivet with snap and you'll have to re-rivet it or replace the unit anyway.
If it's the barrel or the fingers they all can be replaced but until you have done a few or unless you have the jig made for these it's at least a 3-handed job. You still have to buy the barrel and finger boards.
So IMHO it is easier to replace the e-unit with another "Lionel" mechanical e-unit. I just thought you could use another opinion.
What you do with the sound is up to you.
Good luck.
Mike
I will give it a try and see how it goes, it cant get any worse than it is. What about adding the TB II Horn/Bell? I forgot to mention that wasn't just one hobby shop but several in the LA area, there is one but the people that work there are not very customer friendly.
martinden E-units are not that hard to repair. You can do it yourself. And you really don't need a hobby shop that tells you they "won't touch" an e-unit. Sheesh! Martin
E-units are not that hard to repair. You can do it yourself. And you really don't need a hobby shop that tells you they "won't touch" an e-unit. Sheesh!
Martin
I agree with Martin. That reminds me of the bodyshop that wouldn't fix a spot on my car since it had 189K on it at the time. I went to another shop that was more than happy to do it, and did an amazing job.
From what you have said, I think the problem with your eunit is that the lever is loose, and moving it completes the ciruit for the coil. Either wedge a flathead screwdriver between the coil and eyelet and flare the eyelet a bit more, or bend the end of the lever near the dimple to increase the tension slightly. Either way, it is easy, but it can be intimidating at first.
Even complete rebuilds are easy after you've done one or two. Eunits scare a lot of people, but they are easy once you give it a try. I used to be one of the guys that would just replace an eunit, but I rebuild them now and save money in the process.
Marty is slow about updating his website so it may be the old 6amp orit may be newer he has don't know like i said call him and he will tell you.
Life's hard, even harder if your stupid John Wayne
http://rtssite.shutterfly.com/
rtraincollector here marty of ma&patrains has them for $20.00 call and ask him abbout if they will work or not http://shop.mapajunction.com/category.sc;jsessionid=4961EC5213346BA5B2929686F187CDEF.qscstrfrnt01?categoryId=264
here marty of ma&patrains has them for $20.00 call and ask him abbout if they will work or not http://shop.mapajunction.com/category.sc;jsessionid=4961EC5213346BA5B2929686F187CDEF.qscstrfrnt01?categoryId=264
I've done that, but the current draw is quite high. What I might try next is wiring the two fields in series with the non-reversing DC. I'm not sure the field strength would be enough to run the motor well.
Rob
There is a workaround: Wire a bridge rectifier upstream of either one of the armature or the field, but not both, then put the ~ terminals of the rectifier in series with the other motor part. The reversing unit's polarity reversal will be seen by that second part, but not by the part downstream of the rectifier.
Bob Nelson
RRaddict I am great at replacing but not so good at repairing. The guy down at the local hobby shop determined the E-unit was bad as movement of the switch below the locomotive would result temp[orary movement of the locomotive. The is a response from someone that I could replace it with a Dalle electronic unit but I couldn't find it on their website so I am just going to go for the Williams they state it can be used in any locomotive and at 30.00 at www.wholesaletrains.com I am willing to take a chance. I just wanted to know if it can be done in a PW locomotive.
I am great at replacing but not so good at repairing. The guy down at the local hobby shop determined the E-unit was bad as movement of the switch below the locomotive would result temp[orary movement of the locomotive. The is a response from someone that I could replace it with a Dalle electronic unit but I couldn't find it on their website so I am just going to go for the Williams they state it can be used in any locomotive and at 30.00 at www.wholesaletrains.com I am willing to take a chance. I just wanted to know if it can be done in a PW locomotive.
The Williams unit WILL NOT WORK. Although a well running 2343 will nominally draw 4-5 amps, the universal motors(run on AC or DC) are series wound and will not reverse the loco with a change in polarity(which is what the Williams 6 amp boards do).
The Dallee or ACRU boards will work.
The guy at the local hobby shop said it was the E unit because sometimes it went forwards and sometimes it didn't. The movement of the E-units switch at the bottom would result in temporarily getting it to move. There is not a hobby shop within a hundred miles that is willing to fix this unit. The Williams E-unit looks like an easy install so I thought I would try it if indeed an electronic E-unit could be used. If one can be installed I don't forsee any problems. I am installing a TB II in the dummy unit. I don't care about train or railsounds.
If you want to replace with an original type choochooauctions.com has rebuilt on there quite often.
I have not heard neg of the electronic type nor pos. same with rebuilt e-units also so to me its your choice but I haven't ventured this direction yet but know the day is coming but as mentioned you might want to repair it yourself as mentioned above.
V8Vega There was a similar thread on one of the forums awhile ago and the overwhelming opion was to replace the original E unit with a same kind reproduction one. More reliable than the electronic ones. Dennis San Fernando Valley CA.
There was a similar thread on one of the forums awhile ago and the overwhelming opion was to replace the original E unit with a same kind reproduction one. More reliable than the electronic ones.
Dennis San Fernando Valley CA.
What exactly is wrong with the failed e-unit? Maybe it's not as bad off as you think.
On the other hand, this might be a golden opportunity to learn how to service an e-unit.
You can install the Dallee reversing units, they have several models for AC motored locomotives.
http://www.dallee.com/E_Units.htm
The E unit in my Lionel Post War Santa Fe F-3 has taken a dump on me and there isn't anyone in this town LA that will touch it, they all say it's not worth it. I found electronic Reverse units online. Is it possible to install one of these in a PW Lionel along with TB II digital horn?
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