Thanks for the plan. I'll try to get a rheostat.
Nino
Thank you for your help.
Nino, I've done exactly what you're asking about by installing a variable resister across the insulating pins to let a little bit of current still energize the stop section. Not only does this keep the E-unit from cycling, it also stops the locomotive more realistically, letting it coast more with some power rather than an abrupt dead atop. I've had good luck using the old Lionel #95 rheostats that you can usually find at swap meets or on the "bay". Make sure your resister or rheostat can handle the current as these can become quite hot when in use.
FJ
The stop time should still be adjustable as before.
You might find that you need to lengthen the stop block, since the locomotive will still be pulling a little as it slows to a stop. However, the more gradual stop should look more realistic.
Bob Nelson
Bob:
Thanks for the thought.
Would this scheme still allow the train to pause in front of the station for some selected time?
It should be possible to bypass the thermal switch in the station with, for example, a rheostat. You would wire this between terminals 1 and 3 of the station and adjust it to provide enough voltage to the locomotive to keep the e-unit from dropping out but not enough to run the locomotive. This might be tricky to adjust, since the correct setting would probably depend on where you set the transformer voltage.
Nino,
You should move this thread to the Classic Toy Trains Forum.
Rich
Alton Junction
For the locomotive to start up automatically after stopping at the Lionel No. 132 automatic passenger station, the E-unit has to be "disconnected".
Is there any way to get around this so that the locomotive will stop automatically and start up again even though the E-unit is set for reversal?
Thanks,
Nino form San Jose
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