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Marx gateman question

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Marx gateman question
Posted by silentman on Tuesday, May 31, 2011 10:17 AM

Another question from the beginner. I want to hook up my marx gateman on my test track. I have tested it to see if it works and all is good,  just need some specifics of what wires go where, fiber pins ect...Thanks again in advance for the knowledge you guys are passing on, i really really appreciate it!!!!!

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Posted by LL675 on Wednesday, June 1, 2011 8:15 AM

I hooked up my Marx gateman with a Lionel contacter. works fine for me.

Dave

It's a TOY, A child's PLAYTHING!!! (Woody  from Toy Story)

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Posted by silentman on Wednesday, June 1, 2011 9:12 AM

I guess what I don't quite understand is the basics to hooking that stuff up yet (need a simple diagram). I fear an explosion may take place. Indifferent Seriously, don't I need to put fiber pins in the outside rail where I want it to activate and end? Also I want to be able to turn the light off and on with a toggle switch. I'm using just a simple S type transformer with A-C posts. Bob had me reverse everything because of the 1121 switches so maybe it should be wired backwards and the fiber pins in the middle rail?

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Posted by wallyworld on Wednesday, June 1, 2011 9:44 AM

silentman

I guess what I don't quite understand is the basics to hooking that stuff up yet (need a simple diagram). I fear an explosion may take place. Indifferent Seriously, don't I need to put fiber pins in the outside rail where I want it to activate and end? Also I want to be able to turn the light off and on with a toggle switch. I'm using just a simple S type transformer with A-C posts. Bob had me reverse everything because of the 1121 switches so maybe it should be wired backwards and the fiber pins in the middle rail?

If this is a Marx item..as mine has no interior illumination..I have some uncertainty regarding your identification...are you sure it's not Lionel? If it is Marx, you could wire it by ordering a rail clip from Robert Grossman, which I have found to be very reliable as most Marx accessories were intended to be hooked up this way. One side of the circuit goes to the rail clip the other to the transformer. When a metal wheel hits the clip, the circuit is activated. They come in two sizes.

Nothing is more fairly distributed than common sense: no one thinks he needs more of it than he already has.

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Posted by wallyworld on Wednesday, June 1, 2011 9:45 AM

silentman

I guess what I don't quite understand is the basics to hooking that stuff up yet (need a simple diagram). I fear an explosion may take place. Indifferent Seriously, don't I need to put fiber pins in the outside rail where I want it to activate and end? Also I want to be able to turn the light off and on with a toggle switch. I'm using just a simple S type transformer with A-C posts. Bob had me reverse everything because of the 1121 switches so maybe it should be wired backwards and the fiber pins in the middle rail?

If this is a Marx item..as mine has no interior illumination..I have some uncertainty regarding your identification...are you sure it's not Lionel?Here is a photo of the  Marx gate man I have.

 

If it is Marx, you could wire it by ordering a rail clip from Robert Grossman, which I have found to be very reliable as most Marx accessories were intended to be hooked up this way. One side of the circuit goes to the rail clip the other to the transformer. When a metal wheel hits the clip, the circuit is activated. They come in two sizes.

Nothing is more fairly distributed than common sense: no one thinks he needs more of it than he already has.

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Posted by lionelsoni on Wednesday, June 1, 2011 12:48 PM

No, it's still the outside rail that should be insulated, both at its ends and at each metal tie.  Connect one wire from the accessory to that insulated rail.  You can connect the other accessory wire to the center rail.  The idea is that, when the train gets onto that insulated rail, the train's wheels and axles connect that insulated rail to the other, not insulated, outside rails.  Then the accessory is effectively connected to the center rail and to the outside rails of the track and so receives the track voltage, which operates it.

If the track voltage is not enough to operate it, you will have to add another transformer that can provide enough voltage to do the job.  Connect one side of that added transformer to the (uninsulated) outside rails and then use the other side to connect to the accessory instead of the center rail.  This way, when the train arrives, the accessory is connected across the greater voltage of the added transformer. 

The insulated "control" rail can be as long as you want; but you will have to add insulation (cardboard) at each place where it is crimped onto a metal tie.  You need only two insulating pins in any case, one at each end of the control rail, however many sections long it is.  If you want, you can use the gadgets that Marx supplied, which are a rail-shaped and insulated cover that you stick on top of a regular rail, so that you don't have to insulate the rail itself.

Bob Nelson

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Posted by silentman on Wednesday, June 1, 2011 8:55 PM

That's the one, although my gate is missing. There are three posts on it and one is for the lnterior light.

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Posted by wallyworld on Wednesday, June 1, 2011 10:10 PM

Here is a schematic ..just scroll down for the one with three binding posts...I might have a variation without the interior light.but I think you have the watchman..you didn't clarify if the gate is broken or it has no gate...the watchman has an interior light.

http://www.thortrains.net/maracc8.html

Nothing is more fairly distributed than common sense: no one thinks he needs more of it than he already has.

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Posted by silentman on Thursday, June 2, 2011 10:56 AM

Yeah the gate is broken, I'm guessing the best way to fix it is to fabricate a gate, drill out the rivet  and screw the new gate on? Afraid of the drill melting the plastic. Thanks for the schematic!!!! 

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