Gabesdad Seeing as how I was given a decent quantity of Fasttrack with both of my starter sets, it's hard for me to just go out and purchase all new tubular track. I feel that the money could be put toward other items on my layout...Thanks for the advice on the O60 switch......Slowly but surely I am configuring the layout and hope to be building it shortly!
Seeing as how I was given a decent quantity of Fasttrack with both of my starter sets, it's hard for me to just go out and purchase all new tubular track. I feel that the money could be put toward other items on my layout...Thanks for the advice on the O60 switch......Slowly but surely I am configuring the layout and hope to be building it shortly!
If you have plenty of Fasttrack and are satisfied with it, great. However, you don't have to buy new tubular track. There's plenty of used tubular track available on eBay at pretty decent prices. Same for turnouts. And you won't feel bad cutting it up for certain lengths. Only problem is if you use both it's a pain running from one kind of track to the other. And you could sell your Fasttrack on eBay as well. You'd be surprised how much you might get for it. But this is all a very personal decision as to what type of track you chose to use.
Have fun!
Dannyboy6 Just remember that Fastrack < O60 will not allow you to run some of the larger engines like the Lionel Genset. I started with a train set that had O36 curves, and have since added O48s to most of the layout, but I can only run engines that can handle the smaller radius curves. Another piece of Fastrack learning that I'll share has to do with creating yards and sidings. Only use O60 switches with a full curve attached to bring the siding or yard track back to parallel. I asked my LHS and Lionel which combination resulted in the closest track positioning, and I had to buy track and switches and learn through trial and error as neither of them could answer the question. As a result, I have O36, O48, O72, and finally O60 switches on my layout and at $75+ each...ouch!
Just remember that Fastrack < O60 will not allow you to run some of the larger engines like the Lionel Genset. I started with a train set that had O36 curves, and have since added O48s to most of the layout, but I can only run engines that can handle the smaller radius curves.
Another piece of Fastrack learning that I'll share has to do with creating yards and sidings. Only use O60 switches with a full curve attached to bring the siding or yard track back to parallel. I asked my LHS and Lionel which combination resulted in the closest track positioning, and I had to buy track and switches and learn through trial and error as neither of them could answer the question. As a result, I have O36, O48, O72, and finally O60 switches on my layout and at $75+ each...ouch!
What I have learned about Fastrac is that it is tooo expensive to use, especially if you try to freelance a layout with half curves in 036. The filler pieces, same price as a full ten inch section, needed will eat up your wallet very quickly, and leave you saying ouch! I tried to get away with not using small one and a quarter or one and five eight's pices but the track just would not stay together. That is the one reason I am using tubular track again, more flexibility!!
Lee F.
If you are running stuff mainly from starter sets, five inches is plenty of space between tracks. Try to keep the track connections tight for good electrical connections.
From my experiance Fastrac is difficult to work with at times. Go with a proven track plan from either Lionel or CTT magazine.
I am running a GP20 Lionel Engine on one track and a 4-6-2 loco on the other...I guess that if I keep them 5-6" apart, I should be safe then...Thank you for the fast response.
balidas Is this 4.5" to 6" spacing for the straights and curves, or just the curves?
Is this 4.5" to 6" spacing for the straights and curves, or just the curves?
That kind of spacing is just for the side by side or parallel curve tracks. Side by side straights can be spaced closer to 3 inches apart with no problems. Also you will need to start your inside curve a few inches before the outside curved track to prevent passing collisions. In tubular track you should use 031 and 042 curves together or 042 and 054 curves together.
Again it depends a lot on what you run, long steam engines like the U.P. Big Boy,(cab hang-over or front-end overhang) or diesel engines(SD-90's or FM Trainmasters), or the longer 21 inch Atlas passenger cars for Amtrak. Sometimes longer freight cars need more clearance as well.
As both guys posting above have mentioned, it depends on what you are going to run on it. With 6" spacing center rail to center rail, you should be able to run about everything. If you have some pieces with wide swings, like the mentioned articulated steamers, they will give you a good idea of what you need. I don't run the larger ones, so in several areas, I have it more like 4.5" center to center.
Dennis
TCA#09-63805
I have 3 mains in which the center and outside mains are 072 or greater and are used by the giant articulateds. For these guys I keep the track 5 1/2 to 6 inches, center rail to center rail.
Bill T.
Well this is a rather loaded question.The reason being is it depends on the engines and rolling stock you have. I run Atlas track on my layout and their track is designed to be 4.5 inches between center rails (O45, O54, O63). That is sufficient for most 80' passenger cars and engines to clear each other. If you are using FasTrack then I would recommend their O36 and O48 curves as this will ensure consistant spacing.
Hello everyone...New to hobby, and I am designing a 9ft x 12ft layout in my basement. I am currently using the Anyrail program, and have a question...What is the adequate spacing between track parallel to each other on a layout? Is the spacing the same on a straight track as well as a curve? I am using Lionel Fasttrack with the 0-36 curve. Any help would be appreciated....Thanks..
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