A 2400 series observation needed to have a bulb (lamp) replaced. The one I removed was unmarked but the other is a #51. Those are rated at six volts or 7.5 volts depending on where I look. Is that the correct bulb since most O-27 engines run at a higher voltage? Olsen’s says a “51-300” is the proper part. What came in these cars originally? It looks like the “mini bayonet” family of lamps come in several voltage ratings. Would a comparable 18 (#1447) or 14.4 (#57) volt bulb be more appropriate? I guess that either would be a little dimmer and have an extended life too. If the #51 is correct, why? This car has both trucks with center rail roller pickups while another 2400 series observation has only a single center roller pickup. Does that vary with sub-model, year produced, or what? Both are named “Mooseheart”. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
A 2400 series observation needed to have a bulb (lamp) replaced. The one I removed was unmarked but the other is a #51. Those are rated at six volts or 7.5 volts depending on where I look. Is that the correct bulb since most O-27 engines run at a higher voltage? Olsen’s says a “51-300” is the proper part. What came in these cars originally?
It looks like the “mini bayonet” family of lamps come in several voltage ratings. Would a comparable 18 (#1447) or 14.4 (#57) volt bulb be more appropriate? I guess that either would be a little dimmer and have an extended life too.
If the #51 is correct, why?
This car has both trucks with center rail roller pickups while another 2400 series observation has only a single center roller pickup. Does that vary with sub-model, year produced, or what?
Both are named “Mooseheart”.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
All you stated above is correct, a 14 volt bulb is the best choice unless your running TMCC then switching the cars to 18 volt bulbs would be a good idea.
"IT's GOOD TO BE THE KING",by Mel Brooks
Charter Member- Tardis Train Crew (TTC) - Detroit3railers- Detroit Historical society Glancy Modular trains- Charter member BTTS
The correct bulb is the #51 -- a dual-rated 6V or7.5V lamp. (I've never checked, but I assume you get two different life expectancies at the different voltages.) The 51-300 is Lionel's part number for a #51 bulb. The lamps are wired in series -- each gets only half the voltage from the rollers. So the 6-7.5V rating is good for 12-15 volts on the track.
Prior to 1954, the 2400s had a roller on each truck; in 1954, they went to a single roller (and the couplers changed that year, also). Moosehearts should have a single roller; if you have a Mooseheart with two rollers, somebody has changed it along the line.
Yes, you could use two 14V lamps (#53 or #57) -- both bulbs in a car have to be the same -- but the lights will be very dim (running conventional). For the command control systems with 18V on the track, you might want higher voltage lamps.
Martin
The 1445 (bayonet) and 1447 (screw) lamps have only a 250 hour life at 18 volts. They are not a good choice if you want long life at that voltage. You could use a 1450, rated at 24 volts, .035 amperes, 3000 hours, and .23 mscp, which should last nearly forever; but it's not all that bright even at its full voltage.
A reasonable way to extend lamp life is to wire a diode in series with lamps that are wired in series (like the 51s). Wire some cars with the diode facing one way, some the other, to balance the DC load on the transformer. For a car with two lamps in parallel, use two diodes, each separately in series with one of the lamps, but with the diodes pointing in opposite directions. Using diodes this way will drop the voltage by about 30 percent and extend the lamp life by a factor of 64 compared to the stock wiring. Suitable diodes are any from the 1N4001-1N4007 series. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036268&filterName=Type&filterValue=Diodes
Bob Nelson
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