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Headlight Question

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  • Member since
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Headlight Question
Posted by PittsburghGuy2011 on Thursday, March 10, 2011 10:29 AM
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Hi everyone.  I recently purchased a small Lionel switcher, 8350 US Steel, and it doesn’t have a light built in.  My first question is, can I install a headlight on this particular unit? 

Secondly, I play on having the unit on static display only along with some hot metal cars that have a “flickering load”.  I’d like to know if it’s possible to wire a headlight into the engine while disabling its ability to move.  It doesn’t sound like it should be that hard to me, but I don’t know for certain.  If it is possible, what product do you recommend?  Keep in mind I plan on powering the track anyway so the hot metal cars' loads will light.

This is being displayed on a 48" bookshelf and not a platform, hence the need for it to be static.  Also, I plan on simply using a typical transformer to regulate power to the track.  Is there something less cumbersome that will work for what I'm trying to do?

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,

Dave

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Posted by phillyreading on Thursday, March 10, 2011 4:06 PM

Radio Shack used to sell small light bulb sockets, metal stub(not the round base), and bulbs(14.4 volt) that would work and not use too much power. Or use a light bulb from a post war 022 switch.

As for disable-ing the engine, you should just park it in nuetral with the E unit and then leave it in nuetral until you want to use it again(move the E unit to the cycle mode, then go to nuetral and move the lever, if the buzzing stops and it don't move), that should stop the electric flow to the motor.

Lee F.

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Posted by rtraincollector on Thursday, March 10, 2011 6:30 PM

I would think if you got a 18v and socket you would be able to mount it some how in there I believe you can get this from a Lionel supplier for about $3.00 its a white plastic socket with a clear light.

Now I say 18 v as I believe I have heard form others on here seeing your running it at or about 12-14V it will be cooler than having an 14v burning at 12-14 volts. now I also would ( if it was me and planned not to run it for quite a while I would unsolder one of the leads to the motor and then you wouldn't have to worry about it. also I believe that engine doesn't have a E-Unit.

another thing I think the engine is a DC engine so normally would use a Dc power pack but seeing you just want it as a display if you did  as I say you could use a Ac transformer. As I don't know if the cars will work fine on DC ( I'm not that much of an electrical person. )

Bob Nelson will be able to answer this all better

Life's hard, even harder if your stupid  John Wayne

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Posted by lionelsoni on Thursday, March 10, 2011 6:36 PM

Incandescent lamps don't care whether they get AC or DC.  I recommend using a number-53 lamp.  It will be cooler than the 18-volt lamp that you are likely to find, the 1445, no matter what voltage you run at.

Bob Nelson

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Posted by PittsburghGuy2011 on Friday, March 11, 2011 2:30 PM

rtraincollector


Now I say 18 v as I believe I have heard form others on here seeing your running it at or about 12-14V it will be cooler than having an 14v burning at 12-14 volts. now I also would ( if it was me and planned not to run it for quite a while I would unsolder one of the leads to the motor and then you wouldn't have to worry about it. also I believe that engine doesn't have a E-Unit.

another thing I think the engine is a DC engine so normally would use a Dc power pack but seeing you just want it as a display if you did  as I say you could use a Ac transformer. As I don't know if the cars will work fine on DC ( I'm not that much of an electrical person. )

Bob Nelson will be able to answer this all better

Thank you.  You're right, there is not E-Unit on this engine.  If I buy one of these leds I see advertised for trains, will it work and where would I wire it onto on the engine?  I have no experience working with the innards of trains.  I used to just put them on the layout and let them run.

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Posted by rtraincollector on Friday, March 11, 2011 8:14 PM

You should have 2 wires going to the motor take your soldering iron and disconnect them and connect your wires to your light socket to them and that would do it. if you don't have a soldering iron you could cut the wires and strip the ends and connect your wires from your light there. then use small wire nuts or electrical tape where you twisted the wires together.

Life's hard, even harder if your stupid  John Wayne

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Posted by Gray Cat on Sunday, March 13, 2011 7:48 AM

Just another possible suggestion.. Look to pinball machines.. pinball resource on the web can provide you will sockets (both bayonet and screw type) and bulbs. There is a bulb I believe 455 that flickers. You can add bulb covers that are red or they might even have a blinking bulb in red. If it were me I would do this and add about 3 or 4 of these bulbs to each load so they are all blinking at different times randomly giving the appearance of a flickering hot load (with maybe one red bulb on steady.. possibly even using a little diffuser somehow to diffuse the light. Or take a page from American Flyer passenger cars even some white paper. The flicker bulbs would not get hot and for the static bulbs there are a whole host of plug and play LED's even in different colors available for pinball machines. Most of these bulbs are in the 6 volt range. I'm sure you could find an old power supply such as used for a wireless phone, printer, or something else of the sort OR Radio Shack does sell a universal supply. This might be better than having a big old transformer around getting hot from constant duty. These light bulbs would not take much amperage so a small power supply like this might work out fine.

Lover of all things Gilbert, truly a man ahead of his time.

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