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671 Turbine needs HELP!!??

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671 Turbine needs HELP!!??
Posted by TeddyB on Saturday, March 5, 2011 11:26 PM

Hi ALL!
I just got a hold of this 671 Turbine. When I bench tested it...it ran for like a minute then it started sceeching! I popped the top off found this is a very different motor than I'm use to! I read in my K-Line service manual that this is a different motor, they say something about the gears are sealed and bathed in oil! I suspect that there is a worm gear that is spinning on a shaft ? IS this an EASY fix?

Also, there isn't a working headlight on this!?? I thought they ALL came with one. It just has that plastic insert thing????
Many Thanks, Ted

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Posted by ADCX Rob on Sunday, March 6, 2011 8:28 AM

Do you have this version or this version of 671?

Rob

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Posted by sir james I on Sunday, March 6, 2011 8:55 AM

Your 671 has been messed with, they all had smoke and headlight. There are 2 versions of chassis' but either one would need oil and new grease for certain.

"IT's GOOD TO BE THE KING",by Mel Brooks 

  Charter Member- Tardis Train Crew (TTC)   - Detroit3railers-  Detroit Historical society Glancy Modular trains- Charter member BTTS

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Posted by TeddyB on Sunday, March 6, 2011 11:58 AM

I took a couple of pictures. It's what I should have done the first time around!

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Posted by sir james I on Sunday, March 6, 2011 2:10 PM

Remove the metal shield at the base of the motor and you can apply  fresh grease. The headlight bracket is mounted on the boiler front.

"IT's GOOD TO BE THE KING",by Mel Brooks 

  Charter Member- Tardis Train Crew (TTC)   - Detroit3railers-  Detroit Historical society Glancy Modular trains- Charter member BTTS

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Posted by ADCX Rob on Sunday, March 6, 2011 2:14 PM

You simply need to do basic lubrication and you are back in business.

Oil all axles & bushings including the motor bushings - through the lubrication hole in motor(I use Mobil 1).

Oil the side rods.  Oil the smoke lever block and cam.

Grease the worm and worm wheel(under that small square push-fit plate between the motor and the E-unit).

 

Rob

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Posted by TRAINCAT on Sunday, March 6, 2011 2:24 PM

Other than the brush plate you have there, the 671 is the same as the 681, other than magnatraction which the 671 does not have. You need to take the thing apart and clean all old grease and crud out of the gear box and motor shaft/ worm gears. At the end of the motor shaft there is a "e" clip holding the armture shaft in place. There are also two flat washers and a thrust washer with ball bearings at each end of the shaft. These should be taken out and cleaned with mineral spirits and dried, then re-greased and put back. Oil the two brass bushings too. Chuck the armature in a drill while its out and use 800 grit wet/dry sand paper weted with mineral spirits to resurface the commutator plate. Clean the brush plate well and get new brushes.

As for the chassis, clean and oil all axle bearings and side rods. The rear axle drives all the forward wheels so make sure to oil that one and clean out the old dried up crude and regrease.

 

Its a LOT or work but worth it. I just did mine and it runs 3 volts less at the same speed than before.

Roger

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Posted by TeddyB on Sunday, March 6, 2011 2:42 PM

Hi ALL!
I pulled the motor...it's full of grease ! I pulled the front of the Boiler off, the bulb mount is gone!

Thanks ALL , Ted

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Posted by arkady on Sunday, March 6, 2011 3:26 PM

TeddyB
I pulled the front of the Boiler off, the bulb mount is gone!

It's not much of a problem; my 681 was the same way when I bought it.  Is the bulb clip still in place on the back of the boiler front?  If not, you'll need a new one.  Part number is 289E-20.  Next, you'll need a bulb socket (it's the socket that goes in the clip, not the bulb itself).  Part number is 78-73.  Inside the socket goes an insulated washer, the socket base and attached wire.  Part number is 671-223.

The bulb clip is normally crimped to the boiler front, but if it's missing, the little raised post to which it's crimped may be missing as well.  That's how it was in my 681.  I had to drill and tap a 2-56 hole where the post was, so I could insert a short 2-56 screw to hold the clip in place.  Naturally, that meant replacing the keystone decal on the front after I was done.

The rest is a simple soldering job, preferably with a low-wattage soldering iron.  I got all my parts from Jeff Kane, at the Train Tender:

 http://www.ttender.com

 

 

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Posted by servoguy on Monday, March 7, 2011 9:16 AM

I recommend that you not disassemble the motor.  The thrust bearings have the smallest ball bearings you ever saw, and you might lose them.  All I have ever done with one of these motors is oil it through the oil hole and make sure it spins freely.  

The comments about dried grease make me recommend that you do NOT use grease anywhere.  I am using 5W-20 motor oil on gears and it seems to last a very long time.  I have a 2025 loco that I lubed 45 years ago with 20W-40 motor oil and when I took it out of the box the oil was still visible on the gears and wasn't dried out.  I plan to be running trains 50 years from now, and I don't plan on cleaning dried grease out of anything.  

BTW, if you have cleaned the commutator slots and brush plate, I recommend you put a drop of 5W-20 motor oil on the commutator.  It really reduces the friction, and one could conclude that the brush life would be extended significantly.  I oil the commutators on all of my locos and have been doing it for almost 2 years with no problems.  

Bruce Baker

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Posted by SantaFe158 on Monday, March 7, 2011 3:05 PM
servoguy

I recommend that you not disassemble the motor.  The thrust bearings have the smallest ball bearings you ever saw, and you might lose them.  All I have ever done with one of these motors is oil it through the oil hole and make sure it spins freely.  

The comments about dried grease make me recommend that you do NOT use grease anywhere.  I am using 5W-20 motor oil on gears and it seems to last a very long time.  I have a 2025 loco that I lubed 45 years ago with 20W-40 motor oil and when I took it out of the box the oil was still visible on the gears and wasn't dried out.  I plan to be running trains 50 years from now, and I don't plan on cleaning dried grease out of anything.  

BTW, if you have cleaned the commutator slots and brush plate, I recommend you put a drop of 5W-20 motor oil on the commutator.  It really reduces the friction, and one could conclude that the brush life would be extended significantly.  I oil the commutators on all of my locos and have been doing it for almost 2 years with no problems.  

Bruce Baker

The bearings are pressed into a brass plate, if you're careful they shouldn't fall out or get lost. Just dumping oil down that little hole isn't going to properly lubricate them (even if it's why Lionel put it there) Believe me, clean out ALL old lubricants and put fresh stuff on everything, GREASE on the gears and OIL on the bearings, oil on gears is only going to collect dirt which in time will grind your gears down. I bought a 736 berkshire a few years ago and it was one of the worst running steamers I owned (even after a basic lube). After taking the motor apart (really simple if you're careful and keep track of what parts go back in what order), cleaning and lubing it that thing runs as smooth as a watch. If you want to keep it running for another 50 years then do a thorough lube and continue to lube it on a yearly schedule (doesn't have to be exact, but a couple times a year should do it)
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Posted by TeddyB on Monday, March 7, 2011 3:58 PM

Hello everyone ....and thanks!

I've decided to part it out!

This 671 has way too many problems!

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, March 7, 2011 5:19 PM

Ted,

          Please check your email.  I sent you a message.

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Posted by TeddyB on Monday, March 7, 2011 5:40 PM

Hi Jim.

I got your message!

I would email you back....but I can't figure out how!

So if your interested, send message with your Email address, I'll get right back to you.

THX, Ted

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