Trains.com

Need Lionel ZW Help? It works....not really?

3550 views
7 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    July 2001
  • From: US
  • 143 posts
Need Lionel ZW Help? It works....not really?
Posted by TeddyB on Friday, March 4, 2011 3:13 PM

Hi ALL!

I'm SOOOoo confused !!

I just got a hold of this ZW Xfer. I knew it didn't really work when I
bought it! But it does and says strangest things! OK...took my multimeter put it
across all 4 sets of connectors one at a time, so far so simple! I had in on
AC....at each one of the terminals I tuned up the correct controller, each time
they read 20.2 VAC. BUT why won't run ANYTHING!!? I can dead short each of the
sets of contacts, get NO Sparks, but the Circuit Breaker light comes on, the
other light is also working. I can keep any of them at a dead short, run the
correct handle up and back on the voltage, you can watch the curcuit breaker
correctly correspond....WHAT GIVES!! I can't run anything....including a simple
AC bulb that I know works off of it! HELP!!! I have posted 3 pics, the insides
looks clean, no corrosion!

HELP!!!
Ted

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Hopewell, NY
  • 3,233 posts
Posted by ADCX Rob on Friday, March 4, 2011 3:48 PM

Quite simply, the circuit breaker is stuck open/tripped.

Replace the breaker & you're back in business.

 

Rob

  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: Austin, TX
  • 10,096 posts
Posted by lionelsoni on Friday, March 4, 2011 4:59 PM

I agree.  The reason you're seeing voltage at the terminals is that the circuit breaker lamp is passing current around the (open) circuit breaker; and your voltmeter draws so little current that it causes no significant voltage drop across the lamp.  If you don't want to or can't find an authentic Lionel circuit breaker, you can use an automatically resetting automotive circuit breaker rated at 15 amperes as a replacement.

It's also a good idea to have individual circuit breakers on the 4 individual outputs, to protect against fault currents if they become connected together.  Lionel overlooked the need for these in their design.  If you use breakers with lower ratings for these (5 to 10 amperes) you can safely use wire smaller than the 14 AWG that you should have otherwise.  (16 AWG for 10 amperes, 18 AWG for 7 amperes, 20 AWG for 5 amperes)  These currents are more in line with what an individual train is likely to draw.

Bob Nelson

  • Member since
    July 2001
  • From: US
  • 143 posts
Posted by TeddyB on Saturday, March 5, 2011 7:24 AM

Yep...definatly the problem. I put my meter across it, showed that it was open. Then for a little experiment I took a lighted tower that I knew that worked, wired it across U&A, plugged in the ZW, then shorted across the circuit breaker, then gave it some power. It lit up! So I need a circuit breaker!

Many thanks!!!!

Ted

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, March 5, 2011 9:08 AM

Ted,

         I'd suggest changing the rollers while you have it apart.  The roller on the D contact arm looks like severely worn.

  • Member since
    July 2001
  • From: US
  • 143 posts
Posted by TeddyB on Saturday, March 5, 2011 9:54 AM

Yes I want to do that while I'm in there. Just how do you do it? Is it as simple as pushing a pin out and putting on a new roller?

Also, I've been looking into circuit breakers...they mention two things! One is reproduction, I know what that is, is it the way to go? And the other is side mount, just what does that mean? Mine looks like it's mounted on the end of the rectangular shaped breaker?

Many thanks, Ted

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, March 5, 2011 10:09 AM

Ted,

          Your ZW uses the side mount breaker.  Changing the rollers is easy:

1.  Gently pull the contact arm back from the coil.

2.  Crush the old roller.  Sometimes there is enough slack in the pin that you can push it up and cut the head off and remove the roller and pin without crushing. 

3.  Cut the old pin with diagonal cutters or small nippers and remove it.

4.  Install the new roller and pin and pinch the end of the pin to secure it.  Some people solder the end of the pin to the conact arm, but I prefer not to do that since the heat can affect the roller, as well as make replacement more difficult the next time.

  • Member since
    July 2001
  • From: US
  • 143 posts
Posted by TeddyB on Saturday, March 5, 2011 10:15 AM

Hi Green97probe!

Many thanks for the instructions and info!

Will do as you describe!

Ted

Join our Community!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

Search the Community

FREE EMAIL NEWSLETTER

Get the Classic Toy Trains newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month