All I have are steamers, so be my guest with one of yours!
Ray
Bayville, NJ
Life is what happens to youWhile you're busy making other plans - John Lennon
Ray:
That's actually a great idea! Unfortunately, I don't own any diesels except for one Baldwin switcher in excellent shape. Now, if you or someone were to send me a junker ABA Alco or GP7, then I would be most happy to do a rehab project and a tell-how with pics and details. Deal?
Thanks!
Timboy, The American Flyer Nerd
I've seen info on the Bullfrog Snot before and it looks interesting and I would probably give it a try on some of my Flyer engines.
Question to all -
1 - Who has tried Bullfrog Snot?
2 - Who has repaired with the more traditional method of replacing the Pull-Mor Tires?
Keeping in mind the 3 digit engines were molded on the driver wheels, as Timboy mention quite a task, and the 5 digit engines had rubber tire bands that fit in a groove, sounds much easier!
So far I've never done either, so I'm interested in hearing from anyone who has.
Timboy - Suggestion, why don't you do both replacements and post videos on your blog, now that you're caught up on your layout. You can add it to your
Area! (put The Silver Bullet aside for now!)
Bluerail:
Well, definitely do not put it on any other wheels than the traction wheels, that much I'm certain about. The other wheels are for electrical pick-up and Bullfrog Snot is non-conductive. Since my original reply, I have learned that it is also good for enhancing the pulling power on diesels. I don't see why you can't apply it to the rubber-coated wheels. Here is a YouTube video showing how to apply it: watch?v=nOawcCRpxmo
Regards,
Thanks Timboy,
I guess I'll try the Snot. Ever hear of anybody applying that stuff right to the AF molded rubber wheel? My traction wheels look pretty burnished. Or should I choose a clean wheel? Or both?
Thanks again,
Bluerail
Unfortunately, IMHO - what you are suggesting is not very easy to do by the average home hobbyist - to pull the drive wheels off and replace them. Even if you manage to do that, then new ones have to be pressed back on and good luck trying to get them on square and true. Most likely there will be some wobble and that's not desirable at all.
All that said, here is what I would recommend you to do. Call Portlines Hobby. They have a product called "Bullfrog Snot". It is a substance that can be applied to drive wheels to increase traction. I know it can be used on steamer drive wheels, but I am uncertain about it's use on diesel drive wheels. Also, ask them if they will do the repair for you. You send it in, they do the repair and send it back. Here is a link to their web site and contact info:
http://portlines.com/
Of course, another option is to replace the whole drive truck assemblies with better ones - if you can find them. And finally, you could simply sell it for parts and buy a better one. Selling and buying is a tough love choice if the piece has sentimental value. Of course, it could be placed on a shelf and a better one bought to actually run. That is all I can think of at the moment. Perhaps someone else can volunteer some information to help you.
Please follow up on this forum and let us know how you make out. Good luck!
Hi guys,
I have AF #470 Alco Santa Fe diesel that needs some work. The motors seems to run fine, its the pulling power that s the problem. I’m pretty sure the two traction wheels have seen better days. How hard is to change these wheels and do i need special tools? The rubber is molded to the wheel. I think there might have, at one time, been rubber band type tires on one or two of the other wheels in addition to the molded rubber wheels. The diesel wheels spin like crazy until I put a little weight on the top back end.
My dad bought this Diesel as part of a complete set back in the mid-60s. He’d set it up for us kids every year fro Christmas. Its been packed away for many many years. Trying to get the set up and running for my dad. He‘d really be surprised. But I have some hurdles to do before that happens.
My very first post
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