My Lionel Bascule Bridge has some issues...
This is how it arrived, I payed way less than the usual prices, so I knew it had issues before it arrived.
OK its old - very old from the painted windows on the shack.
Anyone got an idea how old this might be?
It arrived without the guide frame, but I already found a replacement, just waiting for it to arrive.
But thats not the issue, this is:
Thats the track connection where the bridge comes down, the track is worn, very worn and bent up and the alignemnt looks way off.
This is the other end, also pretty bent up and the rest of the bridge rails are also worn a little loose and a little bent up. the track doesnt align well with the pins on my O-27 track
Does anyone have any ideas what can be done to fix this ? Am I looking at deck replacement?
Now if this thing is unrepairable I think I have a workable solution, I will add a narrow layer of 1/8" plywood over the deck and lay the track over that, this way I dont irrepairably alter the bridge, but allow me to still add it onto the layout, I havent even tried to see if the motor works yet as I dont have any controller for it.
I wont die if it doesnt operate but I definetly want to run trains over it. Thanks for any help.
Have fun with your trains
Nice Bridge, a fixer-up project. I had one of those when I was a kid. When I was away at college my Mom gave it away with most of my other Lionel stuff. ... Thanks Mom !! .....
Looks like the lift portion of the bridge is higher than the base. Is the pivot point where the bridge rotates properly seated ? Maybe something is bent higher up at the hinge - pivot point. Looks like it may have been knocked around a bit. The bent rail looks like it could be straightened out with some careful work.
Good luck
If you can find a copy of "Toy Train Repair Made Easy" by Ray L Plumber (Kalmbach Books), there is an excellent article on the repair and operation of this accessory. If you are familiar with tuning up postwar lionel locomotive motors, the motor in the 313 should not be a problem. The gearbox used is similar to that used in the 364 lumber loader and/or 397 coal loader (if you've ever worked on either of those). The layered wafer switch operates in much the same manner as the wafer switch in the controller for the USC uncoupling track. Be careful when working on the rails and make sure not to lose any insulated spacers. I believe the switch to make it operate is a Lionel 96C. As you take it apart, make a diagram and record the disassembly sequence (particularly with the wafer switch). Parts do show up on e-bay from time to time but tend to be expensive. Good luck . Hope you get it working.
If it were mine I would not add the plywood and additional track, that additional weight may wear the motor out.I would investigate if the track could be removed and replaced with new track. If that doesn't work, then you need to work on reforming the existing track.Hope you get it working... very nice piece!
Think of it as adding realism to your layout much of the infastructure in the US also needs repair.
Joe Staten Island West
Judging by the two colors of green, it looks like somebody has already tinkered with this item. I have repaired two of these bridges (both had about the same problems as you describe). As far as the track ends are concerned, just shape them as required with a pair of needle-nosed pliers. They should be open enough that they fit right over the pins of the adjoining track. To get the bridge platform and track to align with the adjoing track, just take hold of the bridge and gently "bend " the whole assembly so that it lines up with the pins in the track. You don't even need the alignment frame if you're permanently mounting this bridge to a layout table. I wired both of my bridges to open and close only with a control switch. I don't bother with the automatic train control feature. Assuming the silver superstructure is original, the unit is probably postwar. If it were grey, it would be prewar. Also, if the lift assembly is gear-driven from the motor, it is prewar. If there is a spring connecting the motor and the gearbox drive assembly, it is likely postwar. This is a great accessory. Good luck in getting it running.
Thanks for the advice all, I had thought it might be a cobble myself, but the price was right.
Brent: If i added the plywood deck it would be straight thru, and the bridge would be static non-operational. Its not that important to me that it operate, but its vital I can run trains thru it.
I will see what I can get fixed on this, I am going to keep an eye out for a replacement deck.
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