Power Strip for 7 Transformers!!

[lionel2]

Hello all,  Just wondering what kind of power strip do you use to plug all your transformers into??  I have 7 transformers that I need to plug in.  I was thinking of getting an 8 outlet power strip from Belkin.  I think it was rated at 2000 joules.  With 7 transformers, (5) Z's, ZW and a KW.  What power rating power strip should I get?? Is 2000 joules enough?? Thanks.

[lionelsoni]

A rating in joules is for a surge protector, which you don't need (although there is no harm in it).  You need a rating in units of power, that is, watts, or (assuming 120 volts) amperes.  Get something with a 14 AWG cord and a power rating of 1440 watts.  If it has a circuit breaker, it should be rated at 15 amperes.  You may have trouble finding one with more than 6 outlets.

[phillyreading]

You may need two power strips or sets of outlets. The rating for wiring that Bob N. mentioned, I have found hard to find, may take some time to find in #14 AWG wire, at 1800 watts 120 volts.

I have built my own power supply using duplex grounding receptacles rated at 15 amps in metal (UL approved, NEC also) electrical outlet boxes with # 14 gauge wire(14 NM w/grd) going to the house outlet. Installed a screw-in 15 amp circuit breaker(bought a single fuse holder device at Home Depot) in the receptacle circuit. My house outlets for upstairs are on a 20 amp 120 volt circuit. I have also installed on/off switches for the transformers.

I unplug all my train electrical stuff before leaving the room, as my power company has surges quite often.

Lee F.

[lionelsoni]

Home Depot has this:  http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100663222/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

I specified 1440 watts because the NEC says that an individual load can't exceed 80 percent of the outlet's rating.  That may not apply to a power strip.  In any case, the 14 AWG cord should be safe at 15 amperes.

[cheech]

Try Home Depot. I got one with 8 outlets. It doesn''t have the surge protection, but I put one of those surge protectors in the outlet.

ralph

[phillyreading]

Not sure if you would need to go by the NEC rating's or not, but if so you would have to split the load between two outlet strips because you have approx. load of 1720 watts. You could put four Z's on one outlet strip and the other three transformers on the second strip.

We are talking residential electrical, so I am not 100% sure about the load ratings. But for an industrial, commercial or hospital setting you must follow the NEC for sure.

Some of the hair driers that our wife's use are rated near 1800 watts and they should be on a 20 amp outlet because of start-up extra load.

Lee F.

[lionel2]

Lionelsoni,  That power strip says its 330 Volts capacity.  Is that more than enough for what I have??  If thats what I need, then I will have to get two of them, only $6.97/each not too bad for a good power strip.  But, the joule rating is only 300.  Does the joules really matter??  Or is it the volt rating?  Thanks.

[lionel2]

Phillyreading, I should use 2 power strips and plug them into two seperate plug jacks, correct?  You mean one plug on one end of the room and another on the other end of the room??  Or do you mean, two power strips plugged into two plugs on the same wall jack?  Thanks.

[Laurastom]

There is a lot of good information here. I recommend you determine the actual load on each of your transformers. I suspect the average load is less that the rated capacity. The only way the transformers can be fully loaded when you turn on the power strip is if they are supplying only normally illuminated lights. To the extent they supply operating engines and intermittently operated accessories the "duty factor" on the transformers will be less than 100%. The joule rating of the power strip is not really important. The voltage rating for any UL rated device would normally be 600V. The current rating as others have said is the most important. 15A would be desirable. Two power strips would provide the option of separate power control for lighting vs track power as one example. All these comments presume this power strip is the only load on the breaker feeding the duplex outlet you use for the power strip. If there are other loads on that circuit then those load's current draw needs to be subtracted from the current demand you can place on the power strip.

Tom

[webenda]

Belkin 8 outlet power strips are rather common, ranging in price from $26 to $84 (all same model number) depending on where you buy them. Sears sells them for $42.

Belkin has several models of 8 outlet power strips. I like this one:

http://www.belkin.com/surgeprotection/compact/

[lionel2]

I will go with the Belkin brand, prolley the 330 volt variety with 15 amp protection.  Only $6.97/each, how can I resist.  I will get two of them from Home Depot.  Thanks.

[lionel2]

Would this one be a good one to buy?? 

http://www.homedepot.com/Belkin/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ8o/R-100663212/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

It has 8 outlets, which I need.  Has 15 Amp, which I need.  2000 joules rating and has a long cord.  Only $29.97 and I only need one to do the job.  I believe it is 125 Volt rating as well.  Seems like it is pretty good.  Let me know what you think.  Thanks.

[lionelsoni]

That should do the job.  It probably has a 14 AWG cord, but be sure before you buy it.

[wrmcclellan]

If you are using TMCC or Legacy, and you are planning to plug the "wall wart" command base (CB)transformer into the surge protected outlet strip, be aware that some surge protected outlet strips interfere with the ground connection required for the TMCC/Legacy CB to work.

If the TMCC/Legacy was working prior to addition of the surge equipped strip and then it starts working erratically, you will have to move the command base transformer to a separate plug or outlet strip that does not contain surge protectors (or experiment with other surge protected outlet strips to find one that works).

[webenda]

Lionelsoni said to check the cord before you buy a power strip.

Writing on a power cord is a little hard to see. I used a marker pen to fill in writing on the power cord of my 15 Amp power strip.

 

 

Yup, it is 14 AWG, but what is all that other writing about? "X3C" just means three conductor. The UL List number is E177688. I looked it up. First thing I learned is who made the power cord.

 

 

And then...

 UL ZJCZ.E177688 GuideInfo, Flexible Cord (abridged)

SJT means--
S = Service Grade
J = Hard Service
T = Thermoplastic

Type SJT is rated 300 V and 60, 75, 90 or 105°C. In this case it is rated 75°C in USA and 60°C in Canada.

 "VW-1" indicates that the cord complies with a Vertical Flame Test*.

 Compatibility:

Due to possible incompatibility, TPE material of a styrenic type is, in some
cases, not suitable for use in cords where direct contact with PVC can occur.
A separator is one acceptable means of avoiding direct contact. Other
combinations of materials that could be incompatible, if any, are as yet
undetected. (TPE is a ThermoPlastic Elastomer (TPE), sometimes referred to
as thermoplastic rubber. Used to insulate power cords because it is flexable.) 

Reference:  http://database.ul.com/cgi-bin/XYV/cgifind.new/LISEXT/1FRAME/index.html

*UL Vertical Flame Test (abridged)
1) A vertically mounted sample has a flame applied to it.
2) The sample must self extinguish when the flame is removed.

 Reference:  http://cableorganizer.com/articles/how-does-UL94-vertical-flame-test-work.html

Besides never noticing writing on a power cord, after highlighting it with a marker I was clueless what it meant. After a little research I can read power cord language.

Thank you to Lionelsoni for suggesting that we read the power cord before buying.

[lionelsoni]

That's way more than I intended, Wayne.  I'm very impressed!

[webenda]

Thank you Bob. I forgot one, "FT2." It is a Canadian Standards Association (SCA) flame test like VW-1 except on a horizontal sample. I suppose Canadian Standards are irrelevant unless you live in Canada. Electrical fires in the USA are not the same as in Canada. That is why we need different flame tests.  

Reference: http://www.codecheck.com/cc/pdf/electrical/310conductors/FlameTestRatingsCS.pdf

[lionelsoni]

You've touched on an enduring interest of mine.  I like to compare the ways different cultures do not only electricity, but plumbing, door handles, railroads, you name it.  They're often very different; and what is allowed in one is strictly forbidden in another.  Yet they all seem to survive about as well as one another.

One extreme example is that the British absolutely forbid any electrical outlets ("power points") in bathrooms.  Even light switches are required to be outside the room or on the ceiling (worked with string).  But, in the US, bathrooms are required to have outlets, with GFI protection.

[webenda]

Me too. Remember when UK changed from their old colour code for mains wiring to the new IEC colours? The old Black is Neutral became the new Black is hot. The old Blue is hot became the new Blue is neutral. Learning the new colours must have been quite a shock for UK electricians. Same problem for Americans if they own any UK appliances or test equipment. Repairmen have to figure out if the wire colours are old UK or IEC and translate the UK colours to American colors

Old UK color     Function Color,         IEC
green-yellow     Protective earth        green-yellow
black                 Neutral                      blue
red Line,            single phase             brown
red Line,            3-phase                    brown
yellow Line,       3-phase                    black
blue Line,          3-phase                    grey

And then there are the written "Codes" or "Standards." I first received them in "UK English." Perfectly understandable language for Americans, but ANSI found it necessary to rewrite them in "American English" to avoid any confusion. (What a laughable concept.) I think the rewrite was so ANSI could make a profit selling the written copies.

[Juan2L]

Howdy Amigo.

I'm not an electrical engineer, nor a professional electrician...... But -

Most homes have  rooms (Except for kitchens and utilities) tha are wired for 1800 watts at 15 Amps (Unless you have a different set-up at your house).  I would highly recommend, that you figure out what the actual load from your layout is, before  you decide to fry you house.  It does not matter how strong those power strips are, if your house current is not strong enought to handle the load.  The load rating on the strips should be comparable to the load rating of you house wiring - You can't put 40 gallons of water in an 5 gallon pail.  Remember, you also have to include all of the other connections that you have in that circuit (Unless you have a "Dedicated" feed from the fuse box).  You may also want to consider the total Amperage of the transformers at full load (A 180 watt "Brick" pegs out at 20 Amps, not 15 Amps).  Under "Minimal" draw from the transformers (Depending on how many trains you plan to run at the same time), your power strips will hold up, but under a heavy load (20 Amps X 7 bricks = 140 Amps), you would be asking for trouble.

P.S, - Unless you run (and keep the transformers connected to the power supply) your trains during thunder storms, I would not worry too much about the Joule rating (although.... the higher the number, the better they will protect your expensive investment).

 

[lionelsoni]

I think you're confusing the primary current with the secondary current.  A transformer that puts out 180 watts would be drawing 1.5 amperes at 120 volts if 100-percent efficient.  Realistically, I would expect it to draw no more than about 2 amperes.  Seven of those amounts to 14 amperes, not 140 amperes.