Removing rust

[Deputy]

bear branch trains

Try Strke-Hold by husband uses it all around the farm. to remove rust. We buy it in Rising Sun, IN.  

I use it on my guns and it works great (not that they are rusty). I shot some on one loco and all kinds of black crud came off. I used electrical contact cleaner first, but that stuff evaporates VERY quickly. Strike Hold has the added feature of lubricating the moving parts of electrical motors without harming them or causing short circuits. Still haven't worked on the Lehigh Valley car. I may have to risk the screw removal to clean it. I bought a brass brush for my drill in case Strike Hold doesn't get the job done. I'll keep everyone posted.

Dep

[bear branch trains]

Try Strke-Hold by husband uses it all around the farm. to remove rust. We buy it in Rising Sun, IN.  

[Deputy]

scrager

Try Evapo Rust (available at AutoZone and other stores).  I have used it on Super O track and 112 switches (disassembled without the motors).  It works well and doesn't hurt the plastics that I have seen.  Wash it off with soapy water and pat dry or lightly blow dry and let sit for final dry.  I usually leave it in over night or 24 hours for most rust, less time for less rust.  I would think it would work on a piece of rolling stock you don't want to disassemble, unless there are things that can't get wet there.  Full immersion may not be necessary if you only want to get the trucks and base covered.

 

Thanks Scrager! If Strike Hold fails, that will be my next option.

[scrager]

Try Evapo Rust (available at AutoZone and other stores).  I have used it on Super O track and 112 switches (disassembled without the motors).  It works well and doesn't hurt the plastics that I have seen.  Wash it off with soapy water and pat dry or lightly blow dry and let sit for final dry.  I usually leave it in over night or 24 hours for most rust, less time for less rust.  I would think it would work on a piece of rolling stock you don't want to disassemble, unless there are things that can't get wet there.  Full immersion may not be necessary if you only want to get the trucks and base covered.

[Deputy]

I'm not much of a fan of WD40. It leaves a gummy reside after a period of time. Unfortunately, wire brushes aren't really useable unless I take off the trucks completely. And that means unscewing 62-year-old screws that are in plastic. Risky business at best.

[AF53]

Just watched the youtube videos on strike hold. WOW! That guy is very trusting. Looks like interesting stuff!

Ray

[Papa_D]

I use a brass brush that attaches to a dremel tool.  Brass is soft enough to remove the rust without scratching the metal.  The brush is small enough to do the job quick and easy (both sides) without harming the plastic.  I found my brass brushes at the Amherst Train Show.  It's coming up again shortly the last weekend of January.  After removing the rust, I wipe on WD40 and let it sit a day, then lightly oil.  The end result is no rust or signs of its removal.  I've tried products such as naval jelly.  It doesn't work near as well as the above method and leaves a white residue behind that's hard to clean off of the truck side bars.

[Deputy]

Well I did some searching around online and found something called Strike Hold. I have this stuff for my handguns, but didn't realize it would work on rust. I'll report back after I try it out. It comes in a spray can and it ain't cheap. But if it works, it will be worth the money. Supposedly it is harmless to plastic.

http://strike-hold.com/

 

[nickaix]

Ralph,

I have wondering about Naval Jelly myself for use on some rusty parts (motor frames, side rods, etc.). Is it abrasive? Anyone else use it?

Dep,

I know you are reluctant to remove the screws holding the trucks on, but it you are going to scrub the trucks with something, you could easily scuff the car it by accidentally rubbing the carbody against something while you are concentrating on cleaning the truck.  In addition, even non-caustic agents (eg, 3-in-1) will probably splatter onto the car in the process and leave some kind of residue or sheen when you go to wipe it off, meaning you will have to clean the car.  Carefully done, disassembly and reassembly will not leave a trace, and is IMHO the "safer" way to go.

Just my

[Anonymous]

Dep,

          My first course of action would be some 3 in 1 on a toothbrush.  I am hesistant to use anything abrasive on blackened parts because there is the possibility of going through the blackening and opening the metal up for more rust.

[Train-O]

Dep,

There's a product still on the market called 'Naval Jelly.'

I know it's good for rust removal, but I haven't used it in years and I don't know if it has a caustic affect on plastic.

Ralph

[Deputy]

I have a wire wheel on a bench grinder that is probably easier and more effective than a wire toothbrush. I also plan on some satin black Rustoleum paint after cleaning off the rust. However, I am not crazy about removing the trucks from the car. The screws mounting the trucks are the original 1948 screws and I don't think they were removed since they were first installed. They are screwed into plastic. I'd like to find a chemical that will remove the rust, yet not require me to disassemble anything.

[arkady]

I'd remove the trucks from the car itself and scrub off the rust with a toothbrush-sized bronze brush.  I get my bronze brushes from a gun shop that handles black-powder supplies.  Afterward, brush off the residue with an ordinary toothbrush and lightly oil the surface of the trucks.  Then reattach them to the car.

 

[Deputy]

I just picked up a post-war Lehigh Valley Hopper #6456 vintage 1948 (1 year before I was born!) and it has some light rust on the trucks. I read the suggestions posted by CTT on how to remove rust, but I wondered if anyone has a "secret method" or chemical that works really well without disassembly or destroying the plastic?

Thanks in advance,
Dep