I WISH there was a train store or hobby shop in my area I could patronize. The closest one is a 1/2 day drive in each direction. E-Bay and online dealers are my ONLY source for train stuff. Overall I have done quite well with E-Bay and I have no complaints whatsoever. If there aren't enough pictures of an item, I ask for more. If they don't provide them, I assume they are hiding something and I pass on the item. If you buy on E-Bay, and you are looking for a post-war item, you BETTER be ready to do some fixing on the item. Items that are 100% perfect command a premium price. Check out the post-war Lionel 773 locos on E-Bay if you want to have your breath sucked out of your lungs. It can be coated in rust and it will still command a spectacular price. The ratings the seller uses are a bit of a joke. One person's "excellent" is another person's rusty garbage. While it's true you can't test a loco, I make sure anything I buy offers a return option. If it doesn't, I pass on it. A beautiful loco with the whole insides one big ball of rust and no way to send it back means you made a dumb buy if you paid big $$$ for it. Unless you just want to use it as a display loco on a shelf. There is a LOT of stuff on E-Bay that isn't available at local dealers. And many times it is quite reasonable. If you do buy post-war stuff, you had best pick up Greenberg's Repair and Operating Manual for 1945-69 Lionel Trains. It is like a bible for referencing part numbers and how-to info.Dep
Virginian Railroad
The 2046 that went for far less money indeed did come with boxes. But if my eyes are serving me correctly, this one was a 1953 Korean War later version with the four window cab, and possibly without the all-metal trailing truck.
The expensive one is the earlier 3 window version from 1950-1951 with the three window cab and the all-metal trailing truck, but without the boxes.
It is sometimes tough to determine condition from pictures, even with a large screen quality monitor and zoom. The former, less expensive one came with one picture while the more expensive one gave the potential bidder a decent array of photos. Is that dirt or paint chips on the side of the less expensive version? Tender condition? For face value, I think the winning bid was still on the high side for the less expensive engine.
The expensive one without the boxes was also on the high side, even for a pre-Korean War three window version and the more favorable array of pictures.
I agree with lioneltrain1.......watch the completed listings on the 2046 for a good base idea on price.
And the other recommendations. Bid once, and last.
Be patient as there are enough fine examples of the 2046 out there with the 2046W tender at a genuine, objective C6-C7 condition on a continuous basis. And when assessing the risk factor, I give some level of credence to sellers with enough volume and the satisfaction ratings. Have not had a problem..... yet.
Jack
IF IT WON'T COME LOOSE BY TAPPING ON IT, DON'T TRY TO FORCE IT. USE A BIGGER HAMMER.
I drive my local hobby shop owners and their sales people crazy by asking if I may check the item, before I purchase it.
If, they tell me no, then I go.
If, they give me permission I'll check it in front of them, if possible and if it's good, i'll buy it.
I've worked a good fourteen years in retail to know about certain customer rights.
Some, of these unscrupulous stores owner/employees will tell a customer with a return item; "You did not examine the merchandise here, before buying it." "How do I know if it was in good shape and you damaged it at home?"
A good hobby shop will allow examination of merchandise and sometimes they will show the merchandise to the perspective buyer.
Ralph
This hoopla over bidding on E-Bay is the very reason I do not purchase anything that way. I have however purchased Items over the internet but not by bidding on them. Reputable dealers have gotten my return business less honest ones have not. I really do not like buying sight unseen and have seen to many of my friends receive an item that was less than they expected. I too have experience this.
I prefer going to train shows far and wide, and seek out the people selling their wares for resonable prices. I avoid any one that has "do not touch" signs on his stuff or comments like "rare" or "mint" on them. I always ask permission to handle an item but I like to examine what I may purchase. These are toys for our enjoyment and I have found that by not being in a rush to purchase an item has proved to be very beneficial. I have always found the item later at a much better price.
I use the "vulture method" on E-Bay. I wait until the last few seconds...usually around 10...and then place my highest bid I will pay for the item. If someone outbids me because they have autobid enabled, then I lose. But if they don't have autobid, my bid goes in and there's no time for anyone to bid higher. I win
Train-OIt's bad enough that the items are expensive, then to have a jerk run-up the price is unethical.
It take TWO to run the price up.
Shill bidding on eBay simply does not have any impact on intelligent bidders and ultimately becomes quite expensive for the seller.
To eliminate shills, bid only ONCE on any auction by placing a VERY late maximum proxy bid. Very late like in the last 3 or 4 seconds.
Of course, if you are bidding on my auctions, please disregard the above. Bid often, & bid high!
Rob
Good for you Roger,
It's bad enough that the items are expensive, then to have a jerk run-up the price is unethical.
The legitimate seller, who sells at a reasonable price, gets unfairly scrutinized, because of the phonies.
Every time you see what you think is a schill bidder running up an item REPORT it to Ebay. If the item doesn't sell to a legit person and the vendor relists immediately they will be caught and banned from Ebay. I know, I caught one.
Roger
I agree with Deputy.
E-bay, at times, is good, but then there's the greedy fools!!
It has been my experience(ill-regardless of Greenberg's guide or any othe pricing guides) that something is worth what a (sucker??) party will pay for it.
Pricing guides are just that I am finding. A GUIDE.
As most merchandise on Ebay- go to advanced search (located on the upper right of search bar on most pages-if you type in a word in search after the results look for the advanced search blue link.
Then select "completed items>click the search button. Here you will see (in green) completed listings sold items and (in red) not sold items.
Again you can use this as a guide only. You can click select by: from the drop down price and shipping -lowest first.
Hope this helps a little-Joseph
If the seller is in cahoots with a false bidder...then he WILL eat the loco. He ends up with nobody buying it.
Deputy ...EAT that loco.
...EAT that loco.
It's actually the seller that it ends up costing - listing fees & FVF(Final Value Fees).
The loco in the second listing seems to be in much better shape. But certainly NOT worth what it has been bid up to. If royanne1941 is a relative or friend and is trying to "artificially" jack the price up, I hope he-she has to EAT that loco.
It's because this bidder:
royanne1941
keeps bidding up all the auctions that "rslion" has.
Hello Forum,
I know "anything goes" on ebay sometimes, but does anyone have an idea of why the pricing is so different between the items below; particularly in light of the descriptons and pictures. I read the descriptions of both and thought maybe my untrained eye missed something. One set even has the boxes, but is STILL priced below the price of the other set.
Thanks in advance.
Bernard
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360333131141&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390276567565&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
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