How far is too far?

[wrconstruction]

Well, were a  tad behind schedual on my shift from super detailed N scale to a 1950's department store style S scale layout.

 

My stuff has been stored for a LONG time. My grand father had them before me, and maintenece was not on his agenda.

so, after nights of cleaning track, ect, we've come to unpacking the operating accesoroies. They all could realy use a complete disasembly sanding and painting (rust is showing through the paint).

Question is, how bad am I going to strip the value of this stuff by by doing this? ( I have no intentions of selling any of it, but dont wanna reduce it to a pile of scrap metal either)

Is super detaialing Plasticville structures bad?

what about re motoring the loco's for more reliable preformance? ( I think the unreliability of the operations drove me away from these soooooo many years ago)

I know in a previous post I clearly stated this lay out was for FUN and a break from the super detailing.

but, after looking around, I see ALOT of potential in the larger scales.

any thoughts? ( please understand most of what I have is 1950 - 1960 era stuff)

 

[rtraincollector]

Well to me some of the best stuff came out in the 50's and 60's and if its starting to show rust thru to me might be best to re do them. How will it affect the value well how much will the continuing rust affect the value is a question you may need to ask your self also.

With out pics we really can't say but by your description I say if you can do it I might think strong about doing it. there's a couple of companies that sell the correct paint to refinish the items so they look original.

[Andrew Falconer]

In 1/64th scale and 1/48th scale it is possible to add more and more details to everything.

Plasticville structures are 1/87th scale to 1/48th scale depending on the building.

New locomotive for O Gauge have new, more reliable motors, so remotoring sounds like a great idea.

The accessories would be restored to their original condtion, and they would be made more valuable because they would operate again.

Andrew

 

[balidas]

I wouldn't worry about reducing your things to scraps of rusted metal, you don't indicate they are that bad. By cleaning and repainting, you will certainly restore the attractiveness of your accessories, and since you are not selling, it will be the fun play value that is increased. People yound and old are attracted by what is shiny and colourful.

How far you go is up to you, but I'd say go the distance. You can't lose.

[cwburfle]

Is super detaialing Plasticville structures bad?

Some folks still ask a good buck for nice Plasticville. But from what I have seen, unless your items are in like new condition, with all the little bits and pieces, and in nice, clean, original boxes, it isn't worth a whole lot. I say go ahead and modify them to your hearts content.

What to do with your Lionel trains is a different story. I am one of those folks who likes things to be original, not restored. In order to comment on whether your trains should be left original or would be candidates for either restoration or modification, good pictures would be in order.
While I wrote that I like things to be original, one of my favorite pieces is a Lionel 681 turbine that was heavily modified. But it has little dollar value. (you asked)

[Penny Trains]

In my humble opinion, stopping the rust is priority one.  I'd rather take the time to grind off the rust and have a piece that looks good than save a few flecks of paint and let the rust win.  Of course, I usually only do this for common pieces, and I don't strip great litho like that on pre-war Ives cars.  But I have no problem stripping the litho off rusty post-war Marx pieces to get better looking trains.  Nor would I have a problem installing a better motor, removing an E-unit or switching from AC to DC if it would make the train easier to operate.

I model on a "limited" (non-existent would be a better word) budget so I tend to buy mostly decrepid trains and accessories.  Over half of my standard gauge collection started out as piles of "train shaped rust".  So instead of depriving myself of the fun of operating because I can't afford a pristine 400E blue comet or 700E Hudson, I buy cheap rust buckets because I learned how to restore them.  But rarely do I try to match the colors to the originals.  Instead I make it obvious that this is NOT an original paint scheme so the next collector will know what I did.  I have a 2036 posing as the Polar Express by the way.

I agree, Plasticville is only truly valuable if it has the box, all parts and not a hint of ever having been assembled with an adhesive.  However there are plenty of rare variations so check with Plasticville collector sites if you're worried about destroying a rare piece.  (Marbled brown and black pieces often command higher prices as does anything in an original plastic bag.)  One way around that is to use water based paints and glues so they could be removed easily by the next owner.

In the end YOU are the owner.  What future history does with a piece you modify today is impossible to know.  After all, they are toys.

Becky

[Seayakbill]

Check out the price of the item in similar condidtion on the Bay. If it really has no collector value in its present condition restore it to whatever color combination that suits ya.