The pick up wheels of my American Flyer engines are sparking a lot. What is the best way to clean them? I just had a can motor put in my 290, and I can't get it to run right because of the dirty wheels.
I assume that you are talking about the metal pick up wheels on the tender.
I use a Bright Boy eraser-type piece to clean the wheels. I also use the Bright Boy to clean the track. The track is the real culprit, especially if you are using the vintage American Flyer track. I get a lot of black colored grime on the rails, so occasionally I use denatured alcohol on a rag to clean the rails, followed by a Bright Boy cleaning of the metal wheels on the tender. That helps performance and speed a lot.
You mentioned that you replaced the old open frame motor with a can motor. Did you also replace the original reversing unit with an electronic reversing unit. I still have the vintage open frame motor in my American Flyer engine, but I replaced the original reversing unit in the tender with a Dallee electronic reversing unit. That helped performance and speed as well.
When you say that you "can't get it to run right", can you be more specific? Is stalling, jerky motions, just running slow?
Rich
Alton Junction
The E-Unit was also replaced. It is Stalling, jerky and running slow as well. Taking it back to where the work was done to see if there are other problem. I'm using GarGraves track and I keep it clean using a Ink eraser and a scot-brite pad.. Have no other problems with other engines othjer then that one.
I use some Scotch-Brite on a mandrel for my Dremel tool to polish up the wheels on my engines, works well. If there is crud on the wheel, I use a flat screwdriver to "peel" that off first.
Hudson322 The E-Unit was also replaced. It is Stalling, jerky and running slow as well. Taking it back to where the work was done to see if there are other problem. I'm using GarGraves track and I keep it clean using a Ink eraser and a scot-brite pad.. Have no other problems with other engines othjer then that one.
I am sure that others will jump in and offer some advice as well. But, it seems to me that if you had someone replace the motor and the reversing unit, and your track is clean, then the problem is probably in the reassmbly of the engine and boiler shell. Once, recently, when I disassembled the boiler shell on my 312 to replace the bushings on the motor, upon reassembly, the driver wheel linkages began binding, causing the engine to run slow, jerky and erratic. I had to remove the linkages and start over again to get it right. The other potential problem is faulty or loose wiring upon reassembly.
By all means, take it back to the place that did the replacement of the motor and reversing unit.
I suggest bench testing the engine before putting it back on the track. You may have the side rods out of sinc, or half way out of correct running.
Lee F.
I like to use a carbon steel brush in my dremel at a low speed on metal wheels. I find it helps to "liquify" the old oil/grease/carbonized gunk that builds up and then I can usually wipe it off with a paper towel. Doesn't work on plastic wheels of course. For them I use denatured alcohol on a q-tip and a lot of elbow grease.
Becky
Trains, trains, wonderful trains. The more you get, the more you toot!
I cleaned the track and the wheels but still had a problem. I took the engine back to the man who did the work, and it turns out there was a bare wire causing the problems. It's been running like a champ ever since. Thanks to everyone for all the help.
Hudson,
Thanks for the follow-up. It is always good to get closure on these types of issues.
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