The 1121C-60 and 1122-100 controllers for O27 turnouts do contain a lamp. The controller uses mechanical shutters to indicate the directions that the controller handles were last moved to, but not the actual position of the turnout, as with the 022. The 1121C-60 has its common wire in the middle of the cable. The 1122-100 has the common wire on the outside of the cable.
Bob Nelson
Lee,
Bob Nelson has posted a lengthy set of instructions on how to modify 1122 switches to have constant voltage operation. He has also posted instructions on making a controller with indicator lights.
BB
The 5130 series and 6-23010 series switch controls will work with the post war 022 switches. The 1122 switches are 027 and should use 027 switch controller units for them to function properly, other wise it can be time consuming to figure out the wires from an 027 compared to an O gauge switch controller. The 022 switch control unit uses the center wire as the common wire, the 027 switch controller uses one of the outside wires as the common wire. O gauge switch controllers usually have the light bulbs in them and 027 don't have light bulbs, even though they both look alike at first glance.
There can be a problem with the 022 switches with receiving track power as sometimes the plug-in for the constant voltage adapter plug may not go back all the way to make contact with the copper strips inside the switch housing. DO not use the constant voltage plug(on the old 022 switches) without having power to it, as it purposely cuts out the track power and diverts it to the constant voltage plug. Personally I prefer to wire the 022 switches with the constant voltage plug, as you can have an engine almost crawl through your switch with the constant voltage plug installed.
To the best of my knowledge; 027 switches don't have the constant voltage plug option.
Lee F.
Hi, Thanks for the tip. I also received two shipments today. One with a pair of 1122 switches thatlook brand new and 3 nice O22 units. The 022 ones didn't come with controllers but if I use them for replacements I am good to go.
I looked at the 022s compared to the 5300 series and couldn't really tell any difference.
Now the question is do I all a couple of 1122 switches in and start recreating my inside loop to 027 or stay with what I have? I really want to try out the 1122s and they are in such great condition I think they need to be used.
mgbbob I purchased some 022 switches off of ebay list night. I think one of my 5130 switches may be causing a problem anyway. My son pushed down on the lamp globe yesterday and I started experiencing a short condition. Same problem I had about a week ago. I fiddled with things and it quit but I think you may have confirmed my belief. I have three 022s coming so that will get me started. I may need to replace them all over time.
I purchased some 022 switches off of ebay list night. I think one of my 5130 switches may be causing a problem anyway. My son pushed down on the lamp globe yesterday and I started experiencing a short condition. Same problem I had about a week ago. I fiddled with things and it quit but I think you may have confirmed my belief. I have three 022s coming so that will get me started. I may need to replace them all over time.
mgbbob,
I think that you need to remove the cover on the 5130 switch and see if all the wires are attched! You probally have a wire disconnected inside, like what happened to me, it is probally a wire with yellow insulation, replace this wire with one of a heavier gauge of wire and that should cure the problem. In wire a 22 AWG is smaller than an 18 AWG in diameter, use 18 or 16 AWG wire to replace the wire and you should be good to go.
I had a pair of 5130 series O gauge switches, circa. 1980 or so. They gave me problems, not just with running something but shorted out inside and I had to re-wire one. The positve wire came apart and shorted out at the switch when ever anything passed over the switch, large yellow sparks would fly!
Like I mentioned before "People call anything that is a look-a-like switch to the 'old 022' switch an 022", when it is a newer switch by Lionel. The old 022 switch has a metal plate with "022" stamped on it, a.k.a. old reliable. The 022 switch is a post war or pre war item, not a current production item!
servoguy I don't think any of the Lionel engines have "fat wheels" like some of the Marx engines...
I don't think any of the Lionel engines have "fat wheels" like some of the Marx engines...
The 1654 steamer is a prime example(large, not quite flush gear). It bumps & jumps over the guard rails on 022 - 042 - 711 - 712 and 1122/1122E/1022 switches but glides through the 1121 - 1024 and Marx switches.
The 1655 was almost the same engine, but the gearing was changed for more reduction resulting in a smaller gear diameter on the drivers. It runs fine on the 022's and the others.
Rob
I don't think any of the Lionel engines have "fat wheels" like some of the Marx engines. The Marx engines that have the gear teeth at the periphery of the flange will not go through a 022 or 1122 switch. They will go through the older 1121 Lionel switches and the older Marx metal switches. They sorta go through the Marx plastic switches, but I don't think these switches work very well.
Bruce Baker
That's good to know and something I know I never thought of. Thanks for posting that tidbit!
Becky
Trains, trains, wonderful trains. The more you get, the more you toot!
It's not so much the flanges as it is the diameter of the gears on the wheels. They will ride up & bounce on the guard rails of 022 type switches.
They will run fine on Lionel 1121 switches or Marx switches(metal or plastic).
The prewar flanges on the cars are larger than the flanges on the post war cars. I have a number of 90 deg crossings, and some are for prewar cars and some for post war. The numbers on all of the crossings are the same. I don't know if any of the 022 switches had deeper grooves for the wheel flanges or not. I have 86 022 switches, and I think they are all the same. I even have one that is so old that it has a cast zinc cover for the switch motor and uses 10-32 screws rather than the 4-36 screws that are more common.
You got me. The switches are 5130 series.
The 1666 could be post war. I know there were variations both ways but didn't know the distinction. The numbers on the side are 1666 and it has slide contacts.
I am planning a reversing track section. Do you think I would be better going to 027? I have plenty or track. I just need to decide on which switch to use.
I just noticed, the 1688E is a pre war 027 engine, according to Greenberg's guide. The 2023 post war diesel should have no problem with the switches as it's gears are most likely inside the frame of the truck assembly.
Are you using the real 022 switches or are you using the newer 6-23011 switch by Lionel? A lot of people call anything that looks like the old '022' an 022 switch. Lionel has made at least four different newer versions of the original style 022 switch but the parts numbers are totally different.
The original 022 switches should have the depth you need for the wheel flange on the pre war and post war engines. BTW; the 1666 is a post war engine, the 1666E is a pre war engine.
Another possibility is that you may need the old Marx 027 switch to run your 1666 engine with and switch to 027 track.
Hi folks,
I have a small (6x14) layout with all 031 track and switches. I have noticed my prewar engines bounce a lot going throught the 022 switches. My 1666 sometimes looses the front wheels but picks the track back up most of the time.
I have been reading and I am now wondering if I need a change. I like to run my 1666, an 248, and I just purchased a 1688. I also have some newer engines such as a 2023 pair and some newer stuff.
More and more thougth I like the prewar stuff. Any ideas?
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