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Flyer 30B Voltmeters

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Flyer 30B Voltmeters
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, December 9, 2010 2:44 PM

Has anyone ever repaired an analog voltmeter from a 30B transformer?  One of the meters on my 30B doesn't work, and I'd like to try to fix it.  I removed the lens, bezel, and face to expose the inards.  I am not familar with how an analog voltmeter works, so I am not sure what to look for here.

 

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Posted by cwburfle on Thursday, December 9, 2010 3:52 PM

I have a 30B with a bad meter too.
In my case, one end the end of the winding is broken off.
Portlines has resplacement meters listed.
No picture.
I don't think they look like the original.

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Posted by Timboy on Thursday, December 9, 2010 7:14 PM

Jim:

Good luck with that one!  I have never heard of anyone repairing a 30B voltmeter.  You might try finding a ham radio forum that is well populated and post there.  Someone on a forum such as that might be able to tell you where to buy an exact replacement or guide you through the repair.

Also, here is a Wikipedia link that might give you some info on how they are constructed:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltmeter

Supposedly, there is a permanent magnet, a resistor and a coil, along with the needle and return spring.  Maybe you can rewind the coil and/or replace the resistor if either one shows no continuity?  That resistor should be replaceable and you should be able to find the right gauge enameled wire.  If you unwind the original - take pics, note how many turns, how many layers, direction of windings, etc.  I think it's a long shot. 

Good luck!

Timboy

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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, December 9, 2010 7:45 PM

CW,

          I didn't have to remove the coil and magnet, but you might be able to get to the broken end depending on which one broke.  I'd try rewinding the coil as Tim suggests before replacing the meter with one that isn't an exact repro.

Tim,

         Thanks for the link.  After I posted this topic, I went to Google which lead me to that article.

After cleaning the rust and dirt from the meter and straightening the pointer, I got it to work. Thanks again.  One step closer to setting this 30B right.

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Posted by Timboy on Thursday, December 9, 2010 8:47 PM

Jim:

Well, I was just SURE that my post would bring all the sharpshooters out!  It always does!  LOL  I am the KING of - well, I'm not sure just what.  I had a thought there, but it escaped me...

Anyway.  Glad you got it working again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

LOL,

Timboy

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Posted by lionelsoni on Thursday, December 9, 2010 9:05 PM

No permanent magnet--that would be for a DC meter.  The 30B meter is an inclined iron vane meter.  The back part of the meter contains a coil in series with a 68-ohm resistor.  The coil has a resistance of about 150 ohms.  The needle is in front of the coil and has attached to its shaft the iron vane, which is at the lower end of the coil and perpendicular to the coil's axis when at rest.  When current flows through the coil, the vane rotates to try to align itself with the field lines from the coil, moving the needle against the spring that tries to keep it at zero.

Bob Nelson

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Posted by richhotrain on Thursday, December 9, 2010 9:51 PM

Timboy

Jim:

Well, I was just SURE that my post would bring all the sharpshooters out!  It always does!  LOL  I am the KING of - well, I'm not sure just what.  I had a thought there, but it escaped me...

Anyway.  Glad you got it working again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

LOL,

Timboy

Timboy,

Are you the drummer from Kings of Leon?  From your avatar, there are a lot of similarities.

Rich

Alton Junction

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Posted by richhotrain on Thursday, December 9, 2010 9:54 PM

green97probe

CW,

          I didn't have to remove the coil and magnet, but you might be able to get to the broken end depending on which one broke.  I'd try rewinding the coil as Tim suggests before replacing the meter with one that isn't an exact repro.

Tim,

         Thanks for the link.  After I posted this topic, I went to Google which lead me to that article.

After cleaning the rust and dirt from the meter and straightening the pointer, I got it to work. Thanks again.  One step closer to setting this 30B right.

Jim,

Nice job !

You are becoming a real problem solver.    Bow

Rich

Alton Junction

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Posted by Timboy on Friday, December 10, 2010 6:35 AM

Rich:

I've been called many things. 

LOL

Timboy

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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, December 10, 2010 8:34 PM

I've got another problem now.  As I moved the left throttle, one of the two screw posts broke rendering that throttle useless. I already had this issue with the right throttle from a previous owner who apparently overtightened the screws and cracked both of those posts.Bang Head  I spent $48.50 last week to get a NOS right throttle knob, but at this point I don't want to spend any more on this 30B.  I am in the hole $178.50 already with this one, so I'll probably part it out and cut my losses.  Maybe I'll find a decent 18B to swap the coil into.

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Posted by cwburfle on Saturday, December 11, 2010 9:07 AM

I've got another problem now.  As I moved the left throttle, one of the two screw posts broke rendering that throttle useless. I already had this issue with the right throttle from a previous owner who apparently

I think I'd try a little JB Weld. Just make certain the parts are clean and dry.

If you part it out, I am interested in one of the meters.

I purchased my transformer at an estate sale, and it really needed a good cleaning and safety check.

The meter was working when I got the transformer, but when I disassembled it for servicing, the terminal post twisted, and there was very little slack in the wire, so it snapped.

I read the suggestions above. unfortunately, I already tried grabbing the end of the wire and splicing on an extension. (Done this many times with Lionel stuff) No such luck, the wire was way too fragile, and is now snapped off at the core.
I have also rewound coils by hand. I don't think I want to try on the meter.

I am just going to wait until one comes along out of a junker.
It might be a while, but I am in no rush.

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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, December 11, 2010 3:41 PM

CW,

           I will try the JB Weld to rebuild the post.  If I decide to part it out, I'll contact you to see if you are still interested in the meter.

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Posted by cwburfle on Saturday, December 11, 2010 9:53 PM

One more thought: If the JB weld doesn't work, just hold on to the transformer and keep your eye out for a junker or someone else parting one out. It seems to me you've invested too much in yours to part it out. But if you do, keep me in mind for the meter.

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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, December 12, 2010 3:57 PM

I have repaired the broken post with Quik Steel epoxy putty.  I tried JB Weld, but I was having trouble with the method I was using.  The Quik Steel was much easier to work with and cured within an hour.  To begin, I removed the broken plastic and used 60 grit paper to roughen the area.  Then, I put a thin coat of automotive wax on the threads of the screw and screwed it into the solid lower portion of the original post before applying the Quik Steel to rebuild the post.  The wax prevented the expoxy from adhering to the screw and left nicely cast threads in the new post. 

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Posted by cwburfle on Friday, December 17, 2010 6:01 AM

I am glad to read that you were able to repair your transformer.

As I have posted from time to time, I do not have a whole lot of expertise in American Flyer. Can anybody tell me whether any other transformers used the same volt meter?

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Posted by lionelsoni on Friday, December 17, 2010 8:09 AM

The 19B did.  The part number is PA11771.

Bob Nelson

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