If you power a Lionel O27 turnout from a fixed accessory voltage and do not disable the anti-derailing feature, you greatly increase the risk of burning out a switch-motor coil if a train stops on the turnout. A way to keep the anti-derailing function and protect the turnout is to power the turnout through a capacitive-discharge circuit. This can be as simple as a 5 millifarad (5000 microfarad) capacitor fed through a number 53 incandescent lamp from a DC source.
Bob Nelson
Pnord ...I've added a fourth post to each of my switches to be able to operate independant of track voltage...
...I've added a fourth post to each of my switches to be able to operate independant of track voltage...
On the K-275 & K-276(and their O Gauge & Super Snap brethren)K-Line did that for you, actually giving you 5 posts(ground, through, out, fixed voltage, track) and the switch machines turn off once they've thrown.
Rob
Yes, another issue. I've added a fourth post to each of my switches to be able to operate independant of track voltage. ( and making them worthless in the aftermarket ) but thanks, I'll start looking for some online.
Pnord ... I'm sure there are better switches out there but I'm probably not going to replace 20+ in this economy...
... I'm sure there are better switches out there but I'm probably not going to replace 20+ in this economy...
The K-Line K-275 & K-276 are drop-in replacements, & offer operational advantages(fixed voltage operation, eg.) but are sadly not currently offered and are now commanding premium prices on the aftermarket. Although very similar to the Lionel units, they do not have the shorting problems.
Perhaps the K-Line switches will re-emerge in the RMT or Williams product lines.
Thanks guys,
I tried the electrical tape last night and it really worked well!! It's going to take a little patience and experimenting to be perfect but it's nice to not have to race around the track to keep from stalling. I'm sure there are better switches out there but I'm probably not going to replace 20+ in this economy.
Paul
Have you tried replacing one of the Lionel switches with another brand of switch? You may want to try Ross Custom switches or Gargraves to use with 027 track and all you will need in adition to the switch is a set of adapter pins for the track.
I have had some problems in the past with Lionel switches and went over to Gargraves switches, now I am thinking about going over to Ross Custom switches. Ross is a better quality switch so it will cost a little more than Lionel.
Lee F.
You've pretty much identified the problem.
The 5167 & 5168 027(42") switches are notorious for this exact issue. You already have done the sleuthing - there should be arc spots on the switches where the shorting problem is - with many locos & rolling stock types.
Wherever the arc spots are, cover them with a strip of electrical tape and test your engine(s) again. This should eliminate the shorts. You can keep changing the tape as it wears, or get more creative and use clear/silver/black nail polish with a brush, or the "plasti-dip" type material to insulate the "hot spots".
Hi,
I've been working on my layout for a couple years now & think I've got the first level just right. (trying to replicate Great Northern in the Duluth Harbor) I'm having a problem with some of the switches. I'm using 027 42" switches 5167-8. My first thought was that there were dead spots in the switches but i'm beginning to think that the Loco's are somehow shorting the track power out. of course either would stop the train. It's not a problem when operating at speed as momentum moves me past the switch, but operating at slower speeds is frustrating. I'm running postwar 2046-2056-726-2037 locomotives.
Any thoughts, Thanks
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