Although you can get to the brushes without taking off the shell, most of the time if the brushes need work the unit is in need of a more through tear down and cleaning.
Jim
green97probe Rich, I have removed the brushes without removing the boiler, but it can be difficult for some engines. On the 314AW I just finished, removing the brush caps this way wasn't too bad, but there is almost no room to get the brush bracket out due to the metal strap across the rear of the boiler.
Rich,
I have removed the brushes without removing the boiler, but it can be difficult for some engines. On the 314AW I just finished, removing the brush caps this way wasn't too bad, but there is almost no room to get the brush bracket out due to the metal strap across the rear of the boiler.
Thanks, Jim, that was my conclusion.
Maybe stebbycentral will weigh in on this matter.
Rich
Alton Junction
stebbycentral Another thing to add to your list. Check the motor brushes for carbon build-up. If they are AF steam locomotives the brushes are very easy to get at, right inside the cab. You don't even have to take off the shell..
Another thing to add to your list. Check the motor brushes for carbon build-up. If they are AF steam locomotives the brushes are very easy to get at, right inside the cab. You don't even have to take off the shell..
Is that true? You can replace the brushes and springs with removing the shell?
After I read this, I went down to my work bench and looked at my American Flyer #312. It does seems that the removal and replacement of the brushes and springs is possible without disassembly of the linkages and the shell. But is this wise? While removing the shell is a pain, once removed, it sure seems like it would be easier to handle the motor and get at the brushes and springs.
Has anyone else replaced the brushes without removing the shell?
If so, what was your experience?
If they ran fine last year and slow after bringing them out of storage, clean the track with a scotch brite pad. Take the grease pan off and see if the grease is hard, if so remove it. If a heavy oil was used instead of light oil on the gears ans such that may need to be cleaned off too. After you check the voltae from the transformer is 5 - ~ 17 volts output on the variable post. I have seen the wiping brush or roller go bad.
The fact they ran last year and slow ths years points to something minor, like a cleaning and re-oil.
I would also have to vote for a cleaning/lube job for the locomotives, and that of course also means cleaning the track and wheels on the engines and tender!
Remember postwar American Flyer engines and gear is a little more "temperamental" than its O gauge buddies...in my opinion.
railroaded,
Check out my recent post. The same thing has happened to me with the speed issue.
http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/forums/t/182701.aspx
From what the guys here tell me, it is probably the brushes and the brush springs that need to be replaced. Let us know how this gets resolved.
I would also suggest that he lubricate them for it they have been sitting for a year the light oil may have evaporated.
railroaded My cousin has some issues with his Flyer layout and I *think* I'm going to end up involved with it @ some point. Problem is, I'm an O-gauge guy so I'm calling in the Flyer experts. I already told him to clean the track, check the rail joints, & clean the wheels & pick ups. Thanks in advance, -B
My cousin has some issues with his Flyer layout and I *think* I'm going to end up involved with it @ some point. Problem is, I'm an O-gauge guy so I'm calling in the Flyer experts.
I already told him to clean the track, check the rail joints, & clean the wheels & pick ups. Thanks in advance,
-B
I have figured out what is wrong with my brain! On the left side nothing works right, and on the right side there is nothing left!
American Flyer made both AC and DC locomotives. The AC ones have universal motors like pre-modern Lionel which will run on AC or DC. For the DC locomotives, Flyer sold rectifiers for use with their transformers, which they called "directronic rectifiers", presumably because they include a switch for reversing by changing the voltage polarity. They also sold a combined transformer and rectifier, what HO people would call a "power pack" under the name "rectiformer".
Maximum transformer voltages were 15 or 18 volts, depending on the model.
Bob Nelson
B:
I'll be the first to reply and break the ice so that the sharpshooters can fire away. LOL Most post-war Flyer runs off AC. Some run off DC. Original and unaltered vintage Flyer trains typically run off 5 to 18v; both steamer and Alco. I can't comment on Flyonel.
Regards,
Timboy
He's got 2 locos, both 50's era items. Last year things were running smooth. Now, all of a sudden, right out of the box, for this holiday season, both locos are running slower than normal by about 1/2 to 1/4 speed. My first suspect is the transformer, so what would your typical starting & running voltages be for a Flyer steamer & a Flyer Alco PA ? Most Lionel stuff runs well in the 5 to 16 volt range depending on the engine. I just want to confirm first off that Flyer was AC, and then also learn what the typical voltage variations should be so I can trouble shoot power supply with a multi-meter first. I already told him to clean the track, check the rail joints, & clean the wheels & pick ups. Thanks in advance,
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