Anti-derailing wiring on Gargraves

[Bob.M]

I have a single Gargraves switch that I have wired to avoid derailments. Now I want to add a second switch with its curve section butting up to the first switches curved section. How do I wire this?

[Bob.M]

OK, I guess it is not going to happen. I redesigned the layout to avoid the above problem. I had thought there was a solution either involving relays and/or a Z-Stuff Sensor, but I gave up. But it will bother me when I see pictures of layouts that have switches laid out that way

[spankybird]

I would guess that these back to back switches are wired together. So when one switch is activated it also witches the second one. This is how I would do it.

[phillyreading]

The Gargraves switches have an insulated, or plastic rail, rail feature at the end of the outside rail. If you try to put two Gargraves switches back to back, you lose the outside rail power completely. To help compensate for this I would add; a section of straight track between the two switches and power both outside rails, or add a copper strip to the plastic section of the switch.

The other possibilty is to go with Ross Custom switches. Ross may have metal rails at all points of the switch unlike Gargraves, I am not sure on this. If possible compare the two types of switches at a hobby shop rather than buying the switch and not being able to return it.

Lee F.

[Bob.M]

Here are a couple of sketches of what I was trying to do: The first shows the "main line" along the top, with a siding off to the lower left of the switches. If I were to tie the controls together, I could not leave the entrance to the siding in the curved position to protect cars in the siding, as trains on the main line would cause both to go straight.  The GarGraves switches have a short curved section, which allows for a siding very close to the main line, saving space on a crowded layout. The Ross switch has a curve about 3" longer. My "solution" is shown in the 2nd sketch.