Novice train Dad needs help with Lionel Pen Flyer set

[SRAbe]

Hello, I am new to the forum so please pardon potential elementary questions.  We purchased a Lionel Fastrack Pennysylvania Flyer set in November 2007 for my son (now 9 yrs old).  It has worked fine up until the past 6-9 months.  It frequently sputters and stops or won't start without a push.  Symptoms appear that it isn't getting electricity in cerain areas of the track.  I have it on a shelf circling the room at the 7 ft high level.  I use one transformer - with two sets of wires hooking up the track in 2 places (advised to do this as the track goes around a 12x14 foot room).  I've checked to ensure the wires aren't switched or backwards at either location.

I clean the track frequently using GooGone.  I always get a good amount of black/grey coloring on the cloth when I wipe the track.  I've also recently cleaned the wheels on the engine and each car using the goo-gone.  I got a lot of black residue on the cloth when I did that.  Also wiped the contact on the engine and car (little roller that contacts center rail).  After cleaning, the train will run ok for about 1 day and then back to the same sputtering, stopping, not starting without a push, etc.  (appears that the electricity is not getting to the engine).

Not sure why all the black on the wheels of the cars; the track is shiny, the wheels don't look dirty, but the goo-gone on a cloth sure gets discolored when I wipe the wheels.  The enginee wheels turn freely, I have not lubricated the engine since we got it 5 years ago . . . so I don't see how this could be lubricant leaking on the wheels or track.  I've considered getting some lubricant for the train but again, the engine wheels don't appear to be binding or slowing.

I appreciate any insights or suggestions anyone may have.  Thanks much!

[Firesteel]

Does the locomotive act up only in certain areas of the track? I imagine you already checked the connections to the transformer and the track. The only thing I can think of off hand is to spray a very small amount of contact cleaner into the axles of the pick up rollers on the locomotive. This corrected a problem I once had with an engine stalling on some switches. Hopefully someone with better troubleshooting skills than I have will respond with more and/or better suggestions.

[EIS2]

Black residue on the track and wheels is pretty normal.  However, it may be an indication of over lubrication.  Try removing your engine from the track and use alligator clips to connect the transformer directly to the engine.  One alligator clip should attach to the clip that holds one of the center rollers.  The other clip should attach to a good ground on the engine (a screw head or some other non-moving part.  Just be sure the connection is clean and generally free of paint.  Run the engine and see if it operates smoothly.  If the engine runs smoothly, the problem is somewhere in the track or the center rollers.

I would also try cleaning the center rollers and roller pins with a cleaner such as Radio Shack Tuner Cleaner.  Just make sure whatever cleaner you use is safe around plastics.

Good Luck...

Earl

[Penny Trains]

Based on the symptoms you describe I'd agree that the likely suspects are the center rail pick-up rollers.

I have found that Lionel smoke fluid can cause problems too.  Specifically I have a 2-6-4 (Prarie class) steamer manufactured in 1992(?) that's had a number of problems due to smoke unit overflow.  In that case, the fluid would run out of the reservoir and down the wires inside the loco whenever the engine was turned on it's side.  This caused the oily smoke fluid to saturate the electronics and wreaked havoc with the reverse unit.  While that doesn't sound like the problem you're experiencing it's always something to watch out for.

This brings up an interresting question though, I've never tried using goo gone as a track cleaner.  Most often I hear that denatured alcohol is best for electrical connections but I use a scotchbrite on rails and I polish wheels and rollers with a carbon steel brush and my Dremel tool.  Is it possible that the goo gone is leaving behind some kind of residue?

Becky

[dsmith]

You might try to determine if the problem is the engine or the track.  If you have some extra track, try setting up a small loop and run the train.  If it runs OK on the small loop, then the problem must be in the large track around the room.  If it doesn't run any better on the small loop then the problem is the engine.

[ADCX Rob]

SRAbe

...Also wiped the contact on the engine and car (little roller that contacts center rail)...

Make sure the engine still has TWO rollers.  Having only one roller will do exactly as described.

Rob

[phillyreading]

SRAbe,

My first guess is that since having a large size layout of Fastrac is that you don't have enough power supply points to the track. Try using four sets of power leads to the track, instead of two.

I had a smaller 3 ft. by 9 ft. layout of Fastrac, before I sold it off, and I had to use two sets of power hook-up wires for a smaller layout and clean the track regularly. I was running a set of Interurban Passenger cars by K-Line on the Fastrac, so there was NO smoke fluid residue to even be considered and the track got dirty. The layout is in an upstairs bedroom that we don't use, so I see no reason for the Fastrac to get so dirty, but the track(Fastrac) got very dirty.

Lee F.

[Taranwanderer]

"My first guess is that since having a large size layout of Fastrac is that you don't have enough power supply points to the track. Try using four sets of power leads to the track, instead of two."

This is a good suggestion, but better yet:  run 2 loops of bus wiring (one black for the outer rail, one red for the inside rail) all the way around your track loop, connect them to your transformer's outputs (black for common/outside rail, red for center rail,) and drop a pair of feeder wires down to the bus wiring every 4-6 feet of track.  This will ensure that you are getting consistent electrical conductivity across your entire layout. It takes a little time and $, but it's the best way to ensure good electrical behavior.  This is assuming that the engine(s) you plan to run are conventional.  If you plan to convert to TMCC/Legacy/DCS anywhere in the future, plan for re-wiring again...:)

[DennisB-1]

I think your problem is the GooGone. Try using alcohol for cleaning.