OK heres an interesting quandry, I have recently begun gathering tinplate accessories like gate arms, signals, signs, buildings, etc. for my Really Old School layout, but I now have a problem, namely how to fasten them down.
On some items the bases have two small holes that I can add small screws to fasten it down to the plywood base, but some dont, now I have to consider how do I hold them down so the layout can be movable ( it has to be able to be tipped on its side while in transit).
I have 3 options to consider, 1: add screws on the outside edge of the base. Doesnt change the accessory, but looks more unsightly. 2: drill new small holes that match the other accessories that already have holes. would look and work the best but the newly drilled holes alters the items condition, particularly on buildings. 3: use gobs of silicon adhesive underneith. Doesn't effect value as the silicon can be pealed off but may not be the most secure method of attachment.
So what would you do?, or what are you doing now to hold down all your layout accessories? Any alternatives I havent thought of?
Have fun with your trains
Probably the easiest thing would be to use double sided foam tape. It cleans off easily enough if ever you want to remove the pieces. You may need multiple layers for accessories with high, hollow bases though, and heavier objects may need a considerable amount. But carpet tape is pretty strong and as long as it's not too much weight it should work.
Also, remember that if you're going old school avoid phillips head screws!
Becky
Trains, trains, wonderful trains. The more you get, the more you toot!
Some have gone as far as to cut a hole in the table the size of the foot print of the item and put a board a little bigger(about 3/4" all the way around or 1.5 inches wider and longer so you have something to grab to to mount to the layout table) under the hole so it covers the hole completely and it sinks the pre/post war accessory to just above table heights so it blends in better with the layout instead of sticking out above the layout level.
Life's hard, even harder if your stupid John Wayne
http://rtssite.shutterfly.com/
So far I'm trying a mix, using screws over the lips of a couple of items, thru the holes on the items that have holes. The biggest quandry is what to do with my Marx station which has no lips or tabs or anything to hold it down. I guess that one will be the last to get fastened down.
Sorry Becky I absolutely hate trying to screw down small flat head screws no matter how historically accurate, besides I'm planning on painting the exposed heads so they shouldnt be that noticable.
Pics when I get a little farther along
I've never saw the need to secure acessories. unless you're in earthquake country. the two sided tape or velcrow would work.
Dave
It's a TOY, A child's PLAYTHING!!! (Woody from Toy Story)
Becky suggested avoiding Philips-head screws. She said nothing about flat-head screws. In any case, I don't see why a flat-head screw would be any harder than any other to put in, no matter what kind of drive it had.
Bob Nelson
In my experience using flat head screws requires the use of pre-drilled holes in the wood for best insertion. The holes in the accessories are very small, I'm currently using a #2 x 5/8" brass screw, a #4 is too wide, Phillips give best control and drive when inserting, of course if I could find #2 x 5/8" brass flat head screws I could replace them down the line.
The reason these need to be screwed down is that the layout is mobile, it has to able to take being tilting on its side and being jostled without everything falling off, double stick tape does have limits.
Since the stuff I have is pretty generic stuff, Looks like I will be breaking out the titanium drill bits and popping a couple mounting holes into some of the stuff that doesnt have holes or lips to use. I figure if I match the mounting holes in the Hafner stuff it should look pretty seamless.
I think you are confusing the head type with the drive. A flat-head screw has a conical head and can have any kind of drive, including Philips. A slotted screw can be driven only by a flat-bladed screwdriver and can have any head shape, including a flat head.
Let me use this photo from my Alma Mater, when I refered to flat head screws I was referring to this kind of screwdriver
Phillip's head screws were invented in the 30's, according to wikipedia. So to keep things "really, really old school" as has been mentioned, you'd want to avoid them. However the whole thing really depends on the idea that everyone has read the thread titled "really, really old school layout building" as it's an inside joke of sorts...
I think a lot depends on the weight of the accessory. In some cases like the Marx Girard station, I used velcro adhesive tape that allowed me to to remount it without pulling on the tape. The key is a clean surface to stick the tape side on. I was initially concerned as normal two sided tape tended to fail over time and had to be reapplied but so far the velcro tape has worked well.
I have often though of using bar magnets as well which are as bullet proof as the epoxy that binds them to the table. In other words, a more permanent mount..as long as the weight isnt excessive for the size of the magnet. Since most accessories are metal, there would be no need to drill holes or use glue, except on the table top.
Nothing is more fairly distributed than common sense: no one thinks he needs more of it than he already has.
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