I have not experience any problem with stopping due to momentary power loss with the can motor not having a fly wheel. When I think about it, a 1/2 speed motor should do better than a can motor with the normal gearing. The 1/2 speed motor would be revolving twice as fast for any given speed acting like a fly wheel and be less susceptible to momentary power loss. I surmise that with more power applied to the rails the higher current may be able to bridge some of the crude build up that occurs.
However I have even stopped flywheel equiped locomotives when I failed to keep the wheels and track clean. So prior to putting any piece of motive power or rolling stock on the track I check and clean the wheels as necessary
Major Only when I was a kid did I like to run my American Flyer trains at near top speed and than it was only for a short time or else they would derail on the curve. The top end speed is way to high for realistic and safe operation. I selected the 1/2 speed gearing just to see what it was like. The top speed is still plenty fast but slow speed performance is greatly improved. If I redo any other steam locomotives it will only be with the 1/2 speed motors. I doubt if you would ever run a 1/2 speed motor at full power, most operators I have seen just don't operate their equipment that fast. On your other question I have also rebuilt motors, going so far as rewinding the field wires and armatures. Back when I was in high school and could afford only "junkers". These "junkers" are still running today. The first thing I do is to completely clean the chassis and remove all traces of old grease and oil. Without the motor attached but with the drive rods on the wheels, check for any binding in the wheels, loose wheel tires, and also check for free play, some times even steam locomotive wheel bearings wear out. If these are fine clean and reinstall the motor. You MUST make sure the brass washer is on the gear end of the shaft. If it is missing you need to buy a replacement. This will affect performance. ALWAYS replace brushes and the brush springs. It is not worth relubricating a locomotive if you are still using the old brushes or brush springs. With a "Q" tip clean the brush tubes in the bakelite motor cover to remove any crude that may prevent the brushes from contacting the armature. I prefer a heavy weight gear oil to grease for the worm gear surface. I use a lighter weight oil for the motor bearings and axles. Also check the reverse unit. Alot of poor motor performance can be linked to worn contact fingers and a dirty drum on the mechanical reverse unit. A little oil on the actuator hinge where the brass lifter is connected to the steel plate will keep it moving freely and prevent sticky reverse units. The motor I replaced had a motor shaft that was bent and nothing I could do would get it perfectly straight so replacement was the only option. I have also replace the motor in a Baldwin Switcher and in a PA1 Alco with a can motor. I am completely satisfied with the conversions turning an engine house derelict into a road warrior.
Only when I was a kid did I like to run my American Flyer trains at near top speed and than it was only for a short time or else they would derail on the curve. The top end speed is way to high for realistic and safe operation. I selected the 1/2 speed gearing just to see what it was like. The top speed is still plenty fast but slow speed performance is greatly improved. If I redo any other steam locomotives it will only be with the 1/2 speed motors. I doubt if you would ever run a 1/2 speed motor at full power, most operators I have seen just don't operate their equipment that fast.
On your other question I have also rebuilt motors, going so far as rewinding the field wires and armatures. Back when I was in high school and could afford only "junkers". These "junkers" are still running today. The first thing I do is to completely clean the chassis and remove all traces of old grease and oil. Without the motor attached but with the drive rods on the wheels, check for any binding in the wheels, loose wheel tires, and also check for free play, some times even steam locomotive wheel bearings wear out. If these are fine clean and reinstall the motor. You MUST make sure the brass washer is on the gear end of the shaft. If it is missing you need to buy a replacement. This will affect performance. ALWAYS replace brushes and the brush springs. It is not worth relubricating a locomotive if you are still using the old brushes or brush springs. With a "Q" tip clean the brush tubes in the bakelite motor cover to remove any crude that may prevent the brushes from contacting the armature. I prefer a heavy weight gear oil to grease for the worm gear surface. I use a lighter weight oil for the motor bearings and axles. Also check the reverse unit. Alot of poor motor performance can be linked to worn contact fingers and a dirty drum on the mechanical reverse unit. A little oil on the actuator hinge where the brass lifter is connected to the steel plate will keep it moving freely and prevent sticky reverse units.
The motor I replaced had a motor shaft that was bent and nothing I could do would get it perfectly straight so replacement was the only option. I have also replace the motor in a Baldwin Switcher and in a PA1 Alco with a can motor. I am completely satisfied with the conversions turning an engine house derelict into a road warrior.
Major,
Thanks for this most recent post. Very informative.
One other question. Does the absence of a flywheel in the 1/2 speed can motor cause any problems in the event the engine temporarily loses power over any dead spots on the track (sorry for implying that your track has dead spots) ?
Rich
Alton Junction
Major Even with a 1/2 speed motor the top speed of the locomotive is faster than I would want to run a train so for me there is no difference in speed. But I do get much better slower speed performance and better smoke production
Even with a 1/2 speed motor the top speed of the locomotive is faster than I would want to run a train so for me there is no difference in speed. But I do get much better slower speed performance and better smoke production
Thanks, Major, that is good to hear. In a related post, I have asked about overhauling my original open frame motor because it is slow and jerky when running cold and even once it warms up and the jerky movements stop, it still runs slower than it should. So, I am in a dillema over whether to try and repair the old open frame motor or simply replace it with a 1/2 speed can motor as you have done. If there is no noticeable reduction in speed and the smoke production is good with the wiring modifications as you suggested, that may just be the way to go.
What about the absence of a flywheel? Any problems there?
Lastly, why not go with a full speed can motor?
Major I have done the can motor replacement on one steam locomotive and two diesels. I use the 1/2 speed motor. The original motor had a bent shaft. I got the parts from Port Line hobbies. I went the cheap route and put at bridge rectifier across the mechanical reverse unit. The motor just screws on the Steam Loco chassis no modification necessary so this procedure is reversible. Flyer Locos have to run too fast to produce decent amount of smoke so I installed the 1/2 speed motor. This had very positive results. Smoke output greatly improved. Remember to wire the smoke unit directly to the tender trucks not a Dallee reversing unit and you will see improved smoke production. It does not matter if you use a dallee or the bridge rectifier across an old mechanical unit as long as the smoke unit is wired directly to the tender not in series with the motor. FYI I have been rewiring my flyer locomotives so that all smoke units are wired directly to the tender trucks not in series with the motor. All smoke units I have encountered have one wire going to the right side of the motor. (engineers side) I unsolder it and replace it with a longer wire that goes to the rear wheels of the tender. The other smoke unit wire is soldered to the reverse unit on the same contact that the wire from the front wheels of the tender are connected to. Flyer did this on later locomotives. It really improves smoke out put!
I have done the can motor replacement on one steam locomotive and two diesels. I use the 1/2 speed motor. The original motor had a bent shaft. I got the parts from Port Line hobbies. I went the cheap route and put at bridge rectifier across the mechanical reverse unit. The motor just screws on the Steam Loco chassis no modification necessary so this procedure is reversible. Flyer Locos have to run too fast to produce decent amount of smoke so I installed the 1/2 speed motor. This had very positive results. Smoke output greatly improved. Remember to wire the smoke unit directly to the tender trucks not a Dallee reversing unit and you will see improved smoke production. It does not matter if you use a dallee or the bridge rectifier across an old mechanical unit as long as the smoke unit is wired directly to the tender not in series with the motor.
FYI I have been rewiring my flyer locomotives so that all smoke units are wired directly to the tender trucks not in series with the motor. All smoke units I have encountered have one wire going to the right side of the motor. (engineers side) I unsolder it and replace it with a longer wire that goes to the rear wheels of the tender. The other smoke unit wire is soldered to the reverse unit on the same contact that the wire from the front wheels of the tender are connected to. Flyer did this on later locomotives. It really improves smoke out put!
I appreciate that reply. The information is very helpful.
One question: Did the installation of the 1/2 speed can motor make the engine speed noticeably slower going around the tracks?
Thanks.
Has anyone replaced the vintage open frame motor on an American Flyer steam engine with a modern can motor?
How about a 1/2 speed can motor?
Is smoke production adversely affected?
On the 1/2 speed motor, does the engine literally run at half the speed of a full speed can motor?
What about combining a can motor (full speed can or 1/2 speed can) with a Dallee reversing unit? What kind of results with that combination in terms of speed and smoke production?
I would appreciate your thoughts, comments, criticisms.
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