To Tether or Not To Tether

[Buckeye Riveter]

Jack, I have the Lionel FT ABA set of engines. If I only am running AA, the dummy is in the lead. When I run ABA, the powered unit needs to be in the lead in order to pull my grades and not derail.

TAS, here in the good old Buckeye State has your answer.

[dougdagrump]

I went to the TAS site and they have a unit for dummies, applies to both one A unit and I, that will control lighting and couplers etc. It is very reasonably priced and seems to be a simple installation so that is more than likely what I will do. Sometimes the tethers can be a real pain in the tush when you are putting your engines on the tracks, more insentive to get some space for a layout so I don't have to pull the engines off of the tracks when not in use. [%-)]
I'm also watching the S.D. Padres play the Mariners on TV, while on-line, and the ballpark is right next to a major railline so you see and hear a train passby about every 15 to 20 minutes.[8D]

[ChiefEagles]

Why not do as Jim B did in the OGR video of adding an extra pickup for a steam engine. There is a small connector [I think it is Radio Shack] and small wiring. It will not pull AMPS like a motor will so the small wires will work. See these mid 80's U Boats that are strapped to ne E Unit. A pain to get on and off the track. [they do now have their own engine track with off/on switch] I'll probably convert them to TMCC or DCS in the future.


If you need the connector/wire number, email me and I'll run the video real quick.

[Anonymous]

Why do modlers call them tethers instead of jumper cables like the real ones are called?

[lionelsoni]

When running with dummies, for example an ABBA lashup with a 2383 plus two 2243Cs, I put the dummies first so that there are that many fewer units to pull off the curves.

However, it is not that hard to do a single-wire tether, whether for a coupler or a headlight. Use a male and a female connector pin (but not a complete connector) of a convenient size, solder them to black wires, and cover all but the end of the male pin with shrink tubing.

[ben10ben]

Sommerfields Trains had the deluxe GP-9 upgrade kit for $20 a few months ago. This kit has an LCRX board, which is just what you need to install in your dummy unit, and two GP-9 trucks with coil couplers. The coil couplers are easy enough to remove and re-install.

[MartyE]

I would see if you can find a GP9 upgrade kit that had 2 couplers and a TMCC board. Install the second board and coupler in the dummy. Address it with the same ID as the powered unit and make sure the couple is plugged into the rear coupler socket and the light is also plugged in correctly so when reversed the dummy headlight comes on. I did this for my ACL F3s and it worked great.

If no luck on the GP9 kit try TAS for a coupler and TMCC board to do the same.

[dougdagrump]

I have a Lionel B&O FT-AA that I just upgraded to TMCC. Along with the TMCC upgrade I planned on installing an electro-coupler. Right now the sticking point to for me is that their suggesstion is to install the electro-coupler in the nose of the powered unit and use the dummy as the lead unit. I was thinking of installing the e-coupler in the nose of the dummy and using a tether for operation.
Gentleman, and any ladies that may be members, the floor is yours. Any suggestions, recomendations or comments. [%-)]&[|(]