O27 track

[trainsnwine]

Forgive me for I am new.   I recently "reconnected" with my Marx train set (#666 locomotive) which was a Christmas gift in the early 60's and I'm thinking of expanding the track.   As a "newbie" the question occurs to me to ask... is there such a thing as "left turn" track?  All I have are "rights" or straights.   Also, some of the wheels on my set have some rust on the insides.   How can I clean that up?  Thanks.

[Black Diamond]

I dont know if you are talking about if it turns left or right when it comes to a corner or if you are referring to a track that is flexable. On the question about the "left turn track" if you are talking about corners, I think it would be a matter on which direction you have the train going (im not talking about forward or reverse) im talking about which way the nose is pointed on the engine...for instance if you run the engine one direction and it comes to a corner, and turns left then at the moment it clears the corner and you take it off the track and turn it around and run it forward, its going to turn right. In essance all you have to do to make a right track turn left is turn the track around 1/2 turn or 180 degrees.

 The rust on the wheels, sandpaper will work... but you probaly wont be able to get all the rust off. Perhaps a Dremel...on SLOW speed...I dont know how bad the rust is...Welcome to the forum...Hope you enjoy....

 

[nickaix]

To orient your curved tracks differently, just pull out the pins and stick 'em in the other end.  Depending on how the track is made, the pins may be 'captive' and not want to come out. Working from the bottom, you can use a screwdriver or something similar to spread the end of the track until the pins come out. then you can use a needle-nose pliers to shape it back up again.  Try to get the pins tight, so you have a good electrical connection.

[trainsnwine]

After I posted my question, it occurred to me that transplanting the pins would create the desired effect.  Thanks for the quick response.  

[rtraincollector]

nickaix

To orient your curved tracks differently, just pull out the pins and stick 'em in the other end.  Depending on how the track is made, the pins may be 'captive' and not want to come out. Working from the bottom, you can use a screwdriver or something similar to spread the end of the track until the pins come out. then you can use a needle-nose pliers to shape it back up again.  Try to get the pins tight, so you have a good electrical connection.

you don't need to ruin your track with a screw driver all you do is tap the pin in about 1/8 inch enough to get it pass the crimp then pull quick and it will come right past that point and keep coming out with out to much a problem this way you don't need to try to re-crimp the track.

[Buckeye Riveter]

Instead of sandpaper (or worse, steel wool) use a 3M Scotchbrite Pad to clean track.  No residues left behind.  I just hate it when the sand or steel fibers get into the gears of an engine.

BTW, at train shows you can purchase Scotchbrite type of brushes for Dremel.  They really clean the black goo off of wheels.

[wm #734]

 What I do, so I don't have to pull out so many pins, is to just have a few straights that have no pins in them at all. That way, you just put the curve in the other way. It helps to have straights with 6 pins too. I have so much O27 track, it doesnt hurt to have a few straights like that.

[servoguy]

I suggest that if you want more track, find a swap meet near you. Usually old track goes for almost nothing. I also suggest that if you are making a layout on the floor and you want to change it from time to time, that you make some curves with the pins on the "wrong" end and don't keep pulling the pins to make "reverse" curves. Also, try to avoid pulling the pins out of switches or crossings. Have fun!! Bruce Baker

[lionelsoni]

"No-pin" and "6-pin" straights are an interesting idea; but they can't handle an "S" curve.  Instead of modified straight sections, I suggest having a few no-pin and 6-pin curves around instead.

When reshaping O27 track you can use a loose pin or a 3/32-inch punch or drill bit.  But even better is a number drill slightly smaller than a track pin, so that the fit will be tight.

[wm #734]

 I don't see why the no, and 6 pin straights would work. As long as you have enough, they work in basically every situation.

[lionelsoni]

Don't you mean that you don't see why they wouldn't work?

How do they work to connect two unmodified curved sections together into an "S"?  Try it.

[servoguy]

Bob, I agree with you. 6 pin and 0 pin curves are most useful. Some 6 pin and 0 pin straights are also useful from time to time. Bruce Baker

[wm #734]

Sorry, I did mean "wouldn't". But all you do is get two unmodified curved tracks and put a no pin straight in between them. The 6 pin ones only come in handy every once in a while.

[lionelsoni]

You would use a no-pin straight to get from a right-hand curve to a left-hand curve; but you would need a 6-pin straight to get from a left-hand curve to a right-hand curve.  But, in any case, the modified straights are no help if you need to go directly from a curve of one handedness to one of the other handedness, while no-pin and 6-pin curves can take care of any situation.  One such S-curve that comes up all the time is a siding parallel to a straight track.  The tracks will be spaced pretty far apart if you try to do that with nothing but modified straights.