Oxidation: Is there a cure, prevention technique or cosmetic resolution? As always, many thanks.
It depends on what is the item and is it being used or stored.
Jim
Jim: I saw an ad for some postwar boxcars that were described as having "slight oxidation" on the trucks. I am waiting for some pictures and just thought I'd prepare myself should I decide to make an offer. They would be used as runners, not stored (at least not for now). Thanks.
Normal 0
Basically oxidation is rust. On iron it is red and pits the metal, on lead it is white. Most metals will oxidize if unprotected. Depends on how you want to protect it. It can be coated with a varnish but that is probably not practical for toy train wheels and other parts. A light coat of oil will usually do the job. If the item is going to be stored for a long time, a light grease might be more appropriate as oil will evaporate over time. Also if it is going to be stored, the storage location must be considered. If you are going to store toy trains in a damp basement, you can expect them to rust. Also if you store them in the attic whee it gets really hot in the summer and really cold in the winter, they will be junk in a short time. The best storage area is where we live. A moderate amount of humidity and not too radical a change in temperatures is best.
Terry Thomann Fredericksburg, Virginia That is me on the left. My brother got the train TCA 09-64381
Terry: Appreciate the information. Thanks.
If it has some rust on the trucks you would be surprised how much can be taken off with a dremel and a small wire wheel. If it goes down to the metal, some gun blue either the touch up or the cold blue will resore it to avery nice original looking color.
I've bought AF cars and the listing said their was oxidation or mold. The release agent AF used for their plastic if not cleaned off wold turn a funky whitesh color with age. You see it a lot on link couplers, cattle for the 771, plastic wheels and the like. To remove this white stuff take a hair dryer set on warm and warm up the piece then take a stiff bristle tooth brush and the stuff comes right off.
Traindaddy1,
I use WD40 and a toothbrush to remove light rust and oxidation. When it is heavier I use WD40 and a brass wire brush. It seems to work pretty well, but don't expect miracles. It is in the metal. Jim has a good idea about using gun blue for touch up. I will try it. Thanks Jim. Terry's ideas for storage are good also. I agree with Taranwanderer about the dehumidifier and I also use one. I have not had a problem with rust and oxidation on items that I have had since new, including track and my original set that I have had since 1953, because they have always been stored properly. I clean up items that I purchase used or have come out of estates.
John
I was just thinking it over. If those cars are what you want, the oxidation does not affect operation and you are going to use them as runners, buy them and enjoy them. Try cleaning them up and if you want try using Jim's method to touch them up if you want to. To me, they don't have to be perfect just functional, but not junk.
It is always good to run a dehumidifyer in a basement that is not air conditioned. One thing to remember though is to monitor the humidity level in the basement. You don't want it to get too dry. That is almost as bad as too damp. Also it is a very good idea to have some kind of small fan in the room to gently circulate the air. You don want it dry in one corner and damp in another. Also circulating the air just makes it nicer for the trains.
Thanks to all. A lot of great information. You guys always come through!
Sturgeon-Phish If it goes down to the metal, some gun blue either the touch up or the cold blue will resore it to avery nice original looking color.
If it goes down to the metal, some gun blue either the touch up or the cold blue will resore it to avery nice original looking color.
Civil War . Also if it is going to be stored, the storage location must be considered. If you are going to store toy trains in a damp basement, you can expect them to rust. Also if you store them in the attic whee it gets really hot in the summer and really cold in the winter, they will be junk in a short time. The best storage area is where we live. A moderate amount of humidity and not too radical a change in temperatures is best.
. Also if it is going to be stored, the storage location must be considered. If you are going to store toy trains in a damp basement, you can expect them to rust. Also if you store them in the attic whee it gets really hot in the summer and really cold in the winter, they will be junk in a short time. The best storage area is where we live. A moderate amount of humidity and not too radical a change in temperatures is best.
You could go to a home depot and get a sheet of R5 foil faced insulation board, cut it so you cover all sides of the box, use sliver tape to seal the seams and hold the pieces together. Then you could place that box in a large thick plastic garbage bag and tape that closed.
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