Well, I got the DZ1000 today, and after some poking and prodding of the patient , I figured out how to make the DZ1000 operate with DC. Basically, here's how I did it: 1) remove each LED (both switch machine & controller) and reinsert in reverse oreintation. 2) connect left to left [green wires]; right to right[white & yellow] . Here's the way to hook up the DC power: you need to wire a DPDT switch to enable reversing of the polarity of the DC supply. Or you can use an HO power pack(like the ones that come in the HO RTR sets) as they all have a reversing switch.
When you apply dc to the red(+) black(-), the green light on the controller comes on, the light on the machine is off. push the button, the machine operates, and the green led comes on and stays on. switch polarity, the green lights go out, the red on the controller lights up. Push the button, the machine operates, and both red lights are on. I drew up a schematic and scanned it into my computer, but I don't have an online photo account to upload it to. I can send it to anyone who's interested---
So, it is possible to run a DZ1000 on DC power. I think i'm going to use AC power anyway, as it's a heck of a lot simpler to use--- but, if you are doing two rail, then DC power is probably the way to go if you aren't using Tortise machines---
A Day Without Trains is a Day Wasted
I have no easy way to create a picture. But I will try to describe the circuit in terms of the original design.
First, without any indicators: Remove the LEDs and their ballast resistors from the turnout and the controller. Connect the L and R terminals of the turnout together and use these for the single wire to the controller. Add a diode similar to the ones in the turnout in series with each switch inside the controller. Connect the L and R terminals of the controller together and to the wire from the turnout.
Then add the indicators: Wire each pair of red and green LEDs in anti-parallel, that is, with the cathode of each LED connected to the anode of the other. Then wire a single ballast resistor in series with each anti-parallel pair. Put one of these circuits into the turnout, connected between the single wire and common. Put the other circuit into the controller, also connected between the single wire and common.
If you want, you can use a single red-green LED, like the Radio Shack 276-012, in place of the two individual LEDs in each anti-parallel pair. You probably also should double the ballast resistance, since the LED circuits are no longer being operated in series with each other.
Bob Nelson
Bob, i'd appreciate it if you could draw out a schematic of what you've come up with and send it to me-- my email address is in my public profile--- I should be getting that DZ1000 I ordered tomorrow, and i'll be doing some analyzing of it . Thanks in advance for all your help---
I don't have a good way (yet) to rewire the turnout for DC operation. But I do have an interesting variation that leaves it powered by AC but reduces the controller cable to a single wire (assuming the common is available at the controller location). This could be done by using the switch in the turnout to connect the motor to either of two diodes, pointing in opposite directions. Then the controller buttons would each be wired in series with a diode, again pointing in opposite directions. Pressing the controller button whose diode matched that presently connected to the motor would run the motor. The indicator LEDs at the turnout and at the controller would be handled both in the same way, by wiring red and green LEDs in anti-parallel and connecting the pair to the single wire through a single ballast resistor. The LED whose diode matched the motor diode would light up.
Bob, thanks for finding the schematic of the DZ1000. I'm gonna study this puppy and see if I can come up with a way to use DC power on this switch machine-- even if I have to modify it some.
I found a schematic of the thing: http://www.z-stuff.net/app36.html
It's not a stall motor--it has a switch to shut the motor off. But it isn't going to work with a capacitive-discharge circuit nor with DC in any sensible way.
Lee's description sounds like a stall-motor. If so, it is a permanent magnet DC motor that is meant to push the points as far as they will go, then stall, drawing current continuously. However, this doesn't seem to square with your description of making the turnout "flip". The purpose in using a stall motor is to make the points move slowly.
If it is a stall motor, the extra components may be diodes, to rectify the AC according to which direction you want the points to move, and possibly a resistor to limit the stall current. You could run such a contraption from DC as you did, but not easily from the control rails and not from a capacitive-discharge circuit.
Lee, I'm not going to open up a working unit to see what's inside it. I have a DZ1000 coming from one of the online train sellers, and i'm going to experiment on that one. I'll document what I find, and post results when I can.
Did you try to by-pass the electronic parts inside the switch motor housing?
Not sure if LED's will work on DC, I have not tried that.
Lee F.
Lee, i tried using a 12v battery, i can make the switch machine flip each way if i reverse the polarity of the battery to the red & black wires. I also had the left/right wires reversed too so that the leds on the pushbutton light up correctly. The lights on the machine do not light at all. So it's too much trouble to use DC. I'll just use AC.
Not sure if this will help you with the DZ-1000 switch machine, but I have opened one up that went bad on me and there is a small motor in it that looks like a Tyco H.O. scale race car motor and a couple of electronic parts before the motor. I would try 9 volt DC battery on it to see if the motor spins or not.
I contacted Dennis via Email, he replied that the DZ1000 is AC only. I sent him a reply this morning with the quote from Ross's website that you found. I am awaiting his reply-- and will post back what he says. As i posted, it won't be hard for me to install a 12VAC supply for the Ross switches.
The Ross web site says, "Lighted switch machine with controller. Made by Z-stuff for trains. Can be run with AC or DC power supply. Also works with command control systems. This is the machine that is pre-mounted on all RossReady switches." I don't have any personal knowledge of what's inside them; but it sure seems like they would work with the capacitive discharge.
I just got 2 Ross switches from AM Hobbies, and they look and operate perfect. The only thing I'm wondering is can I power the DZ1000 switch machine with DC voltage instead of AC?. I ask this because I've modified all my Lionel switches to run off of DC power- specifially a Capacitive Discharge setup. As far as I can determine, the DZ1000 needs AC power. If I can, I'd like to use DC just because i;ve already got the CD setup wired in, and I'd hate to have to wire in a 12VAC supply just for these two switches. I'll do it if I have to-----
Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.
Get the Classic Toy Trains newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month