Lionel 1044 Operator's Manual

[Demay]

All,

I just purchased a Lionel 1044 transformer in an eBay auction; however, it will not come with a manual.  Where can I find a copy?

Thanks,

Joe

[lionelsoni]

This should contain most of what you might need to know:  http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=648

Usually, one connects terminal A to the outside rails as the layout common and terminal U to the center rail.  If you want a lower range of voltages, connect terminal B instead of A to the outside rails.  You can get 16 volts of accessory power between terminals A and C, that will share a common with the track if (and only if) you chose A as the layout common.

[Demay]

Lionelsoni,

Thanks for the quick reply and link.  I greatly appreciate it.

Joe

[ADCX Rob]

Try here too... manual for the 1044 twin.

[Demay]

Thanks ADCX Rob.  That is the perfect compliment to what Lionelsoni provided me.

 Joe

[Demay]

All,

The 1044 arrived today.  It is very clean and is better looking that I thought it would be.  I hooked it up to the track as instructed in the manual ADCX Rob provided and Lionelsoni's post.  It ran the train fine using variable posts A/U and B/U.  However, when I turn the handle for the whistle it does not sound the whistle.  It actually gives my conventional steam locomotive w/tender (mfg 2008) a boost and causes it to go faster.  The locomotive w/tender whistle function works fine with the other transformer I was using, which is a very basic 40 watt model that came with the RTR set.  The whistle handle on the 1044 is also a directional handle; the directional handle function works properly.  Am I doing something wrong, or does the 1044 not activate whistles on newer locomotives?  Is this an easy problem to fix?  All in all, I am not going to complain since I only paid $15 for this 1044.

Thanks,

Joe

[ADCX Rob]

 Switch the wires to the track.

Rob

[Demay]

Rob,

I am using Fastrack: I have tried it with the center rail wire connected to the U post while the outside rail wire was connected to the A post, and vise versa.  It didn't work either way; same results.  It doesn't work when I use the B post with the U either.

Or, are you advising me to use different wire?

Thanks,

Joe

[lionelsoni]

It's likely that the copper-oxide rectifier in the 1044 has failed, since it didn't work with either connection.  You can try to replace this obsolete part either with a reproduction copper-oxide rectifier or with a modern silicon diode.

[cwburfle]

I am under the impression that some modern era whistling tenders only work with D.C., and will not blow on what is provided from a postwar transformer. The controllers for these tenders have rectifier bridges inside.
If this is the case, replacing the rectifier in this fellow's 1044 won't fix his problem.

[lionelsoni]

As far as I know, all Lionel-style whistles and horns respond to a DC component of the track voltage, although they may differ in their thresholds for detecting that component.  Traditional Lionel transformers produce the DC component by connecting an auxiliary 5-volt secondary winding and the copper-oxide rectifier in series with the main secondary winding.  The result is meant to be a half-wave waveform with a very strong positive DC component (U relative to A in the 1044) that I think would operate any whistle.  The final position of the control handle shunts the rectifier with a resistor to add back in some more of the AC component and reduce the DC component, after the whistle has been started.

The CW-80 accomplishes the same thing by unbalancing the positive and negative partial half-cycles of its phase-control waveform.

The principal difference between traditional relay-controlled whistles and horns and modern electronic ones is that the relay responds to either DC polarity, while the electronic circuit responds only to a positive center rail for the whistle and a negative center rail for the bell.

A very lightly loaded 1044 might put out an inadequate DC component due to reverse leakage in the rectifier.  It might be worth trying it with, perhaps, some lighted cars to see whether that makes a difference.  You could consider this a failure of the 1044; but older trains tended to draw much more current than modern ones.

If you do replace the rectifier with a silicon diode, that will probably eliminate any leakage problem.  Be sure to get the polarity right.  The Lionel schematics consistently show the polarity opposite to the way the transformers were built.  (Perhaps the designers were educated in the US Navy, which promoted an unconventional sense of electrical-current flow.)

[Demay]

The original transformer I was using was an AC transformer as well.

Lionelsoni,

I will try adding some lighted cars tonight when I have time.  Hopefully that will resolve the issue.  If not, how difficult and costly is fixing the rectifier?  I have never worked on a transformer before so I don't want to completely ruin it.  If it's not too expensive, my closest Lionel service center is about two hours away.

Thanks for all the help,

Joe

[lionelsoni]

Electrically, it is very simple; mechanically is another story, since the copper-oxide rectifier is kind of integrated into the transformer's structure.  I have never done that replacement; but others on the forum have.  Perhaps they can suggest the easiest way to put a silicon diode in place of the copper oxide.

[dougdagrump]

What about adding a stand alone bell/whistle activator button ? I had to add one for the 1044 that I have when I ran the more modern locos.

Don't recall the Lionel or the K-Line part numbers but I'd be almost willing to bet that they can be found on E-Bay.

[Demay]

Lionelsoni,

I ran the loco w/tender, two lighted passenger cars (most of my rolling stock is boxed up until the layout is complete), and an operating television car, but still did not get the whistle to function.  Just to be sure, I hooked up the 40 watt R-T-R transformer and the whistle worked fine so I know the tender whistle functions.  I am in Enid, OK, and my nearest Lionel Service Station is in Wichita, KS, which is about two hours away.  I will call them tomorrow to see if they can fix it without costing me too much money.  I am planning a trip up to Witchita anyway so I don't mind the drive.

Doug,

If they can't fix it for a reasonable price I may go with the stand alone button.  I believe I saw a tutorial on those either in this forum or in the Yahoo Fastrack forum I follow.  At least the other conventional loco w/tender (mfg. 1989) I will run on my inner figure eight oval will be controlled by the 40 watt R-T-R transformer, so I will have one functional whistle going; however, it sure will be fun for my son (6 y/o) and me (I sometimes act like I'm 6) to have both those whistles going. 

I haven't tried the 1989 loco w/tender with the 1044.  I might give that one a try tomorrow. 

Joe