MTH Realtrax switches.

[mbinsewi]

Howdy all,

Set up an MTH train with my grandson this weekend, first time working with O gauge.  I used 2 RH switches to make a "slip" from an outer oval, to an inner oval.

I have no power on the inner oval.  The train makes it onto the first switch, "bridges" the second switch, and stops from lack of power.  I seperated the 2 switches, and noticed that not all 3 rails have a connection, like the "through" track does.  The only connection being made when putting switches together this way, is the center rail.  Is this my problem?  Do I need a seperate power supply for the inner oval?

Any help this "rookie" can get would be greatly welcomed. 

[flyprivate]

Simply connect the inner loop to your transformer with another lockon to provide power.

[phillyreading]

Get the instruction sheet out and look at where the insulating pins go on the switch, this would be my first guess. Second you need to check to see if you have wired the switch for normal or accessory input power. Third you need to run power with an additional lockon to the center loop of track.

Lee F.

[mbinsewi]

Thanks for the suggestions.  I used 2 lock-ons and 14ga. wire to "jump" power from the outside loop to the inside.  Working great.  This started out as a MTH train set, so I don't have a typical power pack with the controls and wiring options, just a Z 750 with a lock-on (uses a jack, not wires) and a remote.

Thanks to all the responses.

Mike.

[JAKE IN VA]

Have the same setup as mbinsewi with two left hand 72 REAL-TRAX switches connecting two loops.  Have pulled the copper insert so using separate (not track) power to run the engine of the switch.  The two switches are connected by a five inch straight section that have severed all three rails in the middle using Dremmel so have complete isolation.  With no trains all works correct-switches throw nicely and the world is good.  I start running trains and all is good then the auto non derail function kicks in occariionally-when there is a train on one loop or another <not in the middle> which derails and jams switch-have the switches fuzed 15A fast blow and still have burned up one switch.  Seems random and cannot figure out why or how to stop.  Just pulled the center piece and the meter sez isolation is good on all three rails.

Maybe if isolate both ends of the connecting track between the two switches and power it separately-?  Will have to do antiderail manually but doing that any way?

Conversly maybe there is a way to disable the antiderail?

All info appreciated-this is more difficult than envisioned/Cheers/Jake in Va

[phillyreading]

Jake in VA,

Have you insulated all three rails going out of the switch on the two directional outputs? Also another thing to think about doing is to power each switch seperately, or maybe adding in a double pole double throw switch(DPDT) to turn off power to the track when you need to. From what you are saying, popping a 15 amp fuse is not good! When all else fails replace the switches with another brand.

Lee F.

[challenger3980]

mbinsewi

Howdy all,

Set up an MTH train with my grandson this weekend, first time working with O gauge.  I used 2 RH switches to make a "slip" from an outer oval, to an inner oval.

I have no power on the inner oval.  The train makes it onto the first switch, "bridges" the second switch, and stops from lack of power.  I seperated the 2 switches, and noticed that not all 3 rails have a connection, like the "through" track does.  The only connection being made when putting switches together this way, is the center rail.  Is this my problem?  Do I need a seperate power supply for the inner oval?

Any help this "rookie" can get would be greatly welcomed. 

Your problem here is by having two non-derailing switches facing each other. In non derailing switches, the short legs of the switches are insulated, by placing them facing each other you have an insulated rail on each side of the center rail, this blocks both the ground (outside) rails from providing a ground to the center loop. Simply adding a ground wire to at least one of the outside rails in the inner loop should  fix this problem. Adding a lock-on  with but  Hot and return connections would be even better, but your basic trouble is not having a return path for your inner loop.

Doug

[JAKE IN VA]

Thanks Doug-know you are onto the solution but am trying to understand so can implement.  Looking at a switch here-looks like an off centered  Y-believe by short legs you are referring to the two top ones in the Y. Looking at the switch from the top the two short legs have only two copper power connections and the inboard outer rail on each lacks a contact.  My understanding is when the wheels of a train bridge the outside rails on either short leg the antiderail enables and the frog (correct term?) moves to that leg-just tested and indeed thats what happens.  In the short piece of track connecting the turnouts have taken my dremel and cut all three rails.  Believe you are saying only cut the middle rail will suffice to isolate (have common ground between all four ZWs and one TW on layout) and then ground one of the outer rails.

I did this and things seem to work OK save one switch works correctly when the remote is Green (Straight through) and will rapidly and accurately switch back and forth when I put a jumper on one then the other short leg.  However if I put the remote in Red (Turnout) when I jumper the two outside rails of the straight the switch goes to the straingt and sits there and vibrates then goes back when I pull the jumper-OK believe that was caused by the remote not going back to neutral due to weak spring-if I manually put it in neutral all seems to work as advertised.  Not a good design-suspect that is how have burned up a number of switches in the past-have to see if can replace spring-its getting late in Va-Tks again/Cheers/Jake who is starting to build the mountain and pushing further into the unknown-"you can always tell the pioneers as they have arrows stickin out of their backs"