Powering accessories--a really novice question

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Jim Duda

Jack - I predrilled the 3/4 plywood with a drill slightly smaller than the 6-32 machine screw...probably about 3/8 - 1/2 inch deep. Then I used a drill with a screwdriver bit to drive them in - believe me, they are SOLID!!!

Thanks Jim! I knew there had to be a way! I am using 1/2" plywood, but I can just drill a little less. Thanks!

DAAN: That sounds really cool! Some of the innovations in the European market make us here in the states jealious! I doubt our UL company would have approved along with Ralph Nader. You may not know who these are, but just know that sometimes they are a wee too strict.

[Jim Duda]

Jack - I predrilled the 3/4 plywood with a drill slightly smaller than the 6-32 machine screw...probably about 3/8 - 1/2 inch deep. Then I used a drill with a screwdriver bit to drive them in - believe me, they are SOLID!!!

[daan]

The powerline idea is not my own. Brawa, a german factory, once had a set which contained a powerhouse, a dozen or so electricity poles and indeed magneto-wire. The magnetowire has a very thin layer of isolation on it, and if you take the thicker ones, can transport more than enough wattage for a few accesoires and lights.
(The ZW transformer also picks up its voltage directly from the secondary spool (magnet wire) and it's 300 watt's!)

[Anonymous]

Thanks Shawn! I noticed that little device but never thought about using one for + and one for -.

I'm gonna give this a try.

[Anonymous]

Hey Jack, RS sells an 8-position jumper to go with the barrier terminal connector. This is what I used to distribute voltage to multiple accessories with one wire to the terminal connector. I use one for + and one for -.

Here's what it looks like.

http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F011%5F003%5F009%5F000&product%5Fid=274%2D650

Just place it on one side and all the screws are tied together.

[Anonymous]

Well, here's my replies to you guys. Please stick with me on this because I really need to power my accessories.

JIM DUDA:
The 6-32 screws (which are actually machine screws--right?) do not have a pointed tip to screw into the plywood (hence your comment about screwing them in until they would not wobble). I could not get the screws to stay in the plywood like you suggested. Not only do they rock, but they would eventually fall out. So I suppose I could use some other screw, but not sure which. Do I have the right screws? Or is there something else I could use?

EZAK:
I understand the Bus wire method, except for one thing. HOW do you connect the wires that come from the accessory to the bus wires? Do you skin back the bus wire's insulation leaving them exposed in the places where the accessory wires go? If so, this sounds very dangerous. Once the wires are attached to the bus wires, do you wrap tape or some other insulator around them?

I don't know about having exposed wires meeting under plywood. Sounds like a fire waiting to happen. This being said, I know that the bus wire method is done all the time. I just don't know how.


CNW1995: I think I understand what you mean. It's called a Dual-Row Barrier Strip with 8 Positions. See it here:

http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F011%5F003%5F009%5F000&product%5Fid=274%2D670

But if it requires that I solder wires to each position, that's not for me. I have a soldering disability and always have. Just as some people can't whistle, I can't solder. If I could find something that was like a power strip where I could just attach the wires from the transformer to two posts and have it power all the other positions, that would be fine. I'm heading to a real electrical supply house tomorrow. Radio Shack sucks. The young man (young being the operative word in the sentence) could not understnd what I was talking about and he even said, and I quote: "What's a Lionel?"

So, you see gentlemen, nothing comes easy to me. I'm really not trying to make this into rocket science--REALLY I'm NOT! It's just that this is all very foreign to me.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Big_Boy_4005

That list all sounds like simple 2 wire jobs, nothing tricky. Does the Rico station have lights? Mine doesn't , but then mine is the old kit. The Hell Gate takes no power. I've never tried the speed sensor, but that should be self contained, and again 2 wires. The radio station has a radio in it, batteries or hard wire? Lights are fine with fixed voltage, but watch out for the bulb rating. If they look too bright, use a lower voltage, or you'll shorten their life.

Daan, that's a cute idea, but you have to be very careful. You don't want to use wires that are too small, and they have to be strung well so they don't short together. It may be more trouble than it's worth.

Yes, Elliot the Hellgate is lighted believe it or not. Remember, it is the 1999 version. It has lights in the pillars. I also have the new version of the Rico station. It too is lighted and made completely of sheet metal. The radio station does have the little wire clips on the bottom, so no batteries but wiring needed.

I will watch that wattage!

I also have an MTH new McDonald's. The lights don't seem to work on it, but the car works in the drive-thru and the speaker works for taking "orders." I will have to do more checking.

[lionelsoni]

If I were trying Daan's idea, I would use magnet wire.

[Big_Boy_4005]

That list all sounds like simple 2 wire jobs, nothing tricky. Does the Rico station have lights? Mine doesn't , but then mine is the old kit. The Hell Gate takes no power. I've never tried the speed sensor, but that should be self contained, and again 2 wires. The radio station has a radio in it, batteries or hard wire? Lights are fine with fixed voltage, but watch out for the bulb rating. If they look too bright, use a lower voltage, or you'll shorten their life.

Daan, that's a cute idea, but you have to be very careful. You don't want to use wires that are too small, and they have to be strung well so they don't short together. It may be more trouble than it's worth.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by daan

You could also play power-distributor and let the powerwires hang across real powerlines across your layout. You don't have to make holes in the table and the real powerlines can be distributed to your working models like in the real world...

That's cool idea Daan! I may do that as I get more involved.

[daan]

You could also play power-distributor and let the powerwires hang across real powerlines across your layout. You don't have to make holes in the table and the real powerlines can be distributed to your working models like in the real world...

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Big_Boy_4005

Hey Jack, which accessories do you have? Different ones like to work off different voltages, and some can be a little fussy, especially the postwar ones. It's handy to have a variable voltage source. Do any of them need to be activated by the track? An old 1033 is a great power source if you happen to have one laying around.

Some great plans guys! I would have never guessed about the screws and wiring in series, etc.

Elliot, I have at the moment (more to come):

1) Rico station
2) Hellgate (1999 remake)
3) Radio station
4) floodlight tower (not sure which one)
5) Water tower with flashing beacon
6) Walk over with speed sensor
7) Carousel

[Jim Duda]

Thanks Bob...I actually solder (or crimp) an eyelet to each wire so it doesn't pull off the screw...

[lionelsoni]

Jim may already be doing this: It helps when attaching several wires to a binding post like his 6-32 screws to put washers between the individual wires, so that one wire doesn't push another out as you tighten the stack. It would also be a good idea to put a couple of nuts tightened together next to the wood, so that tightening the stack doesn't pu***he wire into the wood nor pull the screw out of it.

[Big_Boy_4005]

Hey Jack, which accessories do you have? Different ones like to work off different voltages, and some can be a little fussy, especially the postwar ones. It's handy to have a variable voltage source. Do any of them need to be activated by the track? An old 1033 is a great power source if you happen to have one laying around.

[eZAK]

Here are some things to keep in mind when wiring your layout Acc.

1) Check the operating voltage of all your Acc.
(some work best at one voltage while others work best at a different voltage)

2) Add up your wattage! Don't over tax your trans.

3) Wire your Acc. in parallel. Whether you take each one to a home JB or use bus wires.
I use the bus wire method. I ran 3 sets two #14awg around the underside of the layout from an Acc Trans (ZW). Each set has a different voltage and is marked as such.
You can now tap into these bus wires were ever you want according to the voltage you need. If you want to add a switch just come off the + or hot bus wire to the switch then from the switch to the Acc.

[ChiefEagles]

OK I fess up. I use old telephone key system blocks. [I use to work for Ma Bell before I worked at the State] I have the punch down tool [needle nose pliers will work too]. Got a bunch of these. So I pull my wires to these and "punch them down". If you work in older buildings, you need to check the telephone equipment rooms. They are probably there abandonded. Just take them off the wall with a screw driver and take them home. Larger stranded wire will need to be "punched down" to several places as it is too big to fit in one slot.

[Jim Duda]

...I just took two, long 6-32 screws and screwed them into the plywood just far enough so they wouldn't rock back and forth. Then I cut the heads off them with a Dremel tool and cutoff wheel and ran a 6-32 nut on them. Run one wire from the transformer to one screw and the other wire from the transformer to the other screw. Now all you have to do is run your wires from the accessories to the screws. You can put as many wires on them as the screw allows, as long as your transformer supplies enough power. You can locate these screws to a central location on your table to try to keep the wires from your accessories close to the same length if you want to. I used a 6-32 wingnut on each screw to clamp all the wires together.

[cnw1995]

Jack, I just figured this out this weekend. I have a small transformer from an N scale set with only two AC accessory inputs. Also from my n scale days, I have two...I don't know what you'd call them....contact strips I guess - to which I had soldered a wire from each metal contact board. I attached the wire to the transformer AC connections. Each strip has about 10 screw-in connectors. I run two wires from each accessory, attach one wire to one board and the other wire to the other board, and viola, everything works. Now, since I have only two street lights, two crossing lights and a rotating beacon, it works. Since I don't have an underside to my layout boards, the wires are on top and look sort of like a spiders' web - that's my next project. Previously I tried to connect each wire from each accessory separately to the single connection on the transformer - v. frustrating - having five wires coming into one screw connection...

[FJ and G]

jack, I use leftover bricks like Chief. Also, if you ever dabbled in HO, you may have some transformers. These have AC and DC outlets and the cheapies are 12 V. I use several of these. Simply count up the amps and divide between the bricks. Another cheaper option is to either make your own or buy inexpensive power supplies at Radio Shack or even cheaper at Jameco and other internet dealers.

dav

[ChiefEagles]

Jack, on my old layout [and will on my new], had a couple of old Lionel "bricks" that I used the fixed voltages and a buss bar type of wiring. Right now on my temp layout, I have a couple of uncoupling track sections. Using an old transformer [think it is a CW] to power them at 16 volts. Think I used the A and C terminals. It is written on the old transformers of what voltages they produce with which terminals you connect too. I plan on using smaller transformers to power blocks for switching trains with some older conventional diesels to build trains while the rest of the main lines are run in DCS. Old transformers in working condition are cheap. [Just be sure to "phase" them, get the plugs with ground to ground and hot to hot] If you do not know a lot about electrical switches, CTT had its May issue on them. Use switches with aux. transformers and you can make lots of great things happen on your layout.

[Anonymous]

Hey that's a great place to poke around Tim! I will pick up one of those! But I am even slower than you know. I don't understand how to wire 7 or more accessories to that MRC box for instance. It doesn't have 7 places or more for wires---get my drift?

[Anonymous]

Dont feel bad jack.. One way and maybe the cheapest is to use MRC twin power box Model AH800 It puts out 65 va and has 12v and 18 v terminals for different accessories. I think they cost about 18.00 online at http://www.wholesaletrains.com I think 2 of these would be plenty power for your accessories................Tim

[Anonymous]

I feel real silly asking this question, but I have to admit that I don't know the answer.

Although I have been involved in Lionel O and 0-27 since 1995, I just now have my first layout. I have a couple of books on building your first layout, but they are packed away right now and I believe that you guys could answer this question to where I could understand it anyway. So here goes!

Right now, I have 7 accessories located in different places on my layout. I will be adding more later. I naturally want to power them. I do not however, want to use track power or use an SCII. So, my question is: How do I power each accessory from one smaller transformer under the layout? My pea-sized brain can’t figure it out! I hope others new to the hobby will take this post as an example. You don't have to be afraid to ask questions here. Even us oldtimers have problems they can't figure out.