I have my original pair of American Flyer switches, #XA 9926 and #XA 9927.
I want to buy a second pair for a layout that I am building, but I never see these listed, at least not under these numbers. Is a set of right and left switches, #720, the same thing as what I have?
Also, how similar are #720 and #720A? From what I can tell, #720 is a single molded platform whereas on #720, the diverging track is not part of a single molded platform. Also #720A has clips instead of screw down nuts for the four wires, and #720A also has a bottom plate whereas #720 is open on the bottom exposing the soldered track wire connections. Any other differences?
My last question relates to my original pair of switches. There is a sliding button to select either 2 Train Operation or Regular Operation. What is the function of this sliding button? When I took these switches out of storage, the button was on the 2 Train Operation, so I left it there. Now, I am wondering what it is meant to do?
Thanks.
Rich
Alton Junction
The last question is somewhat easy to answer, the sliding switch should be in regular operation unless used for a passing side line, if used for a passing or to another track it should be in 2 train operation. If you use the switch to make a dead end it should be in regular operation.
Next thing you might ask is how to wire a switch.
Lee F.
With the button in the position away from the lights, power will only go to the track the switch or passing is set for. When the button is pushed away from the lights both legs of the switch has power.
As far as wiring from the light housing go black red yellow green. Following typical AF logic, black is base, yellow is light, green is primary function (in this case straight), red is secondary function (in this case the siding)
The switches are interchangable as far as manual, remote, the connectors are the same.
Jim
phillyreading The last question is somewhat easy to answer, the sliding switch should be in regular operation unless used for a passing side line, if used for a passing or to another track it should be in 2 train operation. If you use the switch to make a dead end it should be in regular operation. Next thing you might ask is how to wire a switch. Lee F.
Lee,
Sorry to show my ignorance, but I am not sure that I understand your terminology regarding a "passing side line". The way that I am using the left and right switches is to diverge from the main line oval on one side of the oval (eg., the left side) and rejoin the main line on the other side of the oval (e.g, the right side) by crossing over inside the oval. I don't know if I am being clear but the layout is basically an oval and the switches are used to run the train in a shortened version of the same oval. Does that make sense. Right now, that sliding button into the 2 Train Operation position and that seems to work fine. Any problem with that?
Are you saying that the button should only be pushed into the Regular Operation position if the switch is used to access a stub end siding?
Sturgeon-Phish With the button in the position away from the lights, power will only go to the track the switch or passing is set for. When the button is pushed away from the lights both legs of the switch has power. As far as wiring from the light housing go black red yellow green. Following typical AF logic, black is base, yellow is light, green is primary function (in this case straight), red is secondary function (in this case the siding) The switches are interchangable as far as manual, remote, the connectors are the same. Jim
Jim,
Either your first two sentences are contradictory or, more likely, I am misunderstanding you. Are you saying that the button provides a power routing feature, only the straight track in one setting and both tracks in the other?
Also, are you saying that all of the remote control switches operate the same, whether #720, #720A or, for that matter, my #XA 9926 and #XA 9927?
Rich,
That XA number you found is a part number. The way that two train operation works is by selecting which of the diverging routes get power depending on which way the frog is thrown. For example, if you set both switches to curved, the track that connects the curved routes of both switches gets power while the track between the straight diverging routes becomes unpowered. The single track that connects the input of both switches always remains powered regardless of the frog position.
As far as model numbers go (720 and 720A for example), the A indicates a revision of some kind. This is common with accessories like the 758 Sam The Semaphore Man and the 755 Talking Station. Around 1950, Gilbert installed a resistor in each of these two so that the reversing unit didn't need to be locked, and the numbers changed to 758A and 755A respectively.
green97probe Rich, That XA number you found is a part number. The way that two train operation works is by selecting which of the diverging routes get power depending on which way the frog is thrown. For example, if you set both switches to curved, the track that connects the curved routes of both switches gets power while the track between the straight diverging routes becomes unpowered. The single track that connects the input of both switches always remains powered regardless of the frog position. As far as model numbers go (720 and 720A for example), the A indicates a revision of some kind. This is common with accessories like the 758 Sam The Semaphore Man and the 755 Talking Station. Around 1950, Gilbert installed a resistor in each of these two so that the reversing unit didn't need to be locked, and the numbers changed to 758A and 755A respectively.
That is both interesting and informative. Thanks.
Do you think, as I do, that my #XA 9926 and #XA 9927 are part of the model number 720 set. There is neither a 720 or 720A stamped on the bottom, just #XA 9926 on one and #XA 9927 on the other.
My switches have the screw down nuts on the four wire terminals.
Yes, from what you posted about the colored lenses previously and what you've posted now, they are 720. Most of the time, Gilbert never put the model number on accessory items. The model number only appeared in the instruction and service manual. Sometimes, you'll find a date stamped on an item though.
green97probe Rich, Yes, from what you posted about the colored lenses previously and what you've posted now, they are 720. Most of the time, Gilbert never put the model number on accessory items. The model number only appeared in the instruction and service manual. Sometimes, you'll find a date stamped on an item though.
Thanks, Jim.
...and thanks again for that previous tip on the lens. Bought those on eBay and my original set of switches look and run fine.
Got the grandkids coming in the week before Memorial Day, so trying to get a layout set up and I need another pair of switches. Both 720 and 720A are listed on eBay so I am trying to decide which set to purchase. Given my obsessive-compulsive behavior, I am inclined to stick with 720, but 720A is easier to find.
Yes I messed up myinstructions. In two train configuration, if both switches are in the two train position, power is applied only to the section of track that the switches are thrown to. Say you had a circle inside an oval; in two train mode with the switches thrown to make the circle, the circle would have power and the outer oval would be dead. With the button in two train and the switchs in the main line or straight the oval would have power and the inner circle would be dead.
With the button in the regular position, power is applied to both the inner circle and the oval.
Think of a train on the circle and one on the oval, with the button in the regular position both trains would run irregardless of the position of the switch. In tow train position, switch position would determine which train got power.
Sorry for the confusion earlier
Sturgeon-Phish Yes I messed up myinstructions. In two train configuration, if both switches are in the two train position, power is applied only to the section of track that the switches are thrown to. Say you had a circle inside an oval; in two train mode with the switches thrown to make the circle, the circle would have power and the outer oval would be dead. With the button in two train and the switchs in the main line or straight the oval would have power and the inner circle would be dead. With the button in the regular position, power is applied to both the inner circle and the oval. Think of a train on the circle and one on the oval, with the button in the regular position both trains would run irregardless of the position of the switch. In tow train position, switch position would determine which train got power. Sorry for the confusion earlier Jim
Jim.
Thanks for that clarification. I now understand the function of that sliding button. In a sense, it is a power routing feature, although not in the classic sense.
As I previously mentioned, when I took my trains out of storage a few months back, the button on each switch was in the "2 Train Operation" position, so I left it that way. I suppose my father put it in that position when I was a youngster and probably told me to leave it there. Thanks again.
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