As I make progress rehabbing my old American Flyer trains, I have set up my remote control switches as part of the mainline. Some of the freight cars have been uncoupling as they pass over the switches.
I can see why. The bottom of the couplers are striking the outer switch points and opening up the knuckle.
Primarily, this occurs on the cars where I have converted the old link couplers to knuckle couplers. I have "bent" the arm upwards that holds the coupler, but the bottom of the coupler still grazes the switch point and opens the knuckle.
Would it be a mistake to slightly file down the switch point to assure clearance with the bottom of the coupler? Or, is there something else that can be done other than trying to lift the coupler arm any higher which may not be possible?
Thanks.
Rich
Alton Junction
Timboy I suspect those are repro knuckle couplers you are using. I have never seen a repro knuckle coupler yet that didn't have a J hook about 1/32" too long. When I do a link to knuckle conversion, I either buy a knuckle coupler conversion kit, rip open the sealed envelope to use it - or get some junker knuckle freight cars and steal those knuckle couplers. I wouldn't file anything down on your switch frog. They were designed and built to a certain spec for a reason. You could try removing the lead weight and grinding a little off the J hook, then gluing it back on the weight, but chances are you will either bend the J hook or the weight will always be falling off. No reflection on your skill set with that comment. Maybe it's me. I never had much luck trying what I just suggested. Here is something to look at on your knuckle coupler. Does the weight hang perfectly straight down, or is there a slight forward angle to it. Repros have a slight forward angle to them. Original knuckles hang straight down and not as far as the repros. At least, that has been my observation.
I suspect those are repro knuckle couplers you are using. I have never seen a repro knuckle coupler yet that didn't have a J hook about 1/32" too long. When I do a link to knuckle conversion, I either buy a knuckle coupler conversion kit, rip open the sealed envelope to use it - or get some junker knuckle freight cars and steal those knuckle couplers. I wouldn't file anything down on your switch frog. They were designed and built to a certain spec for a reason. You could try removing the lead weight and grinding a little off the J hook, then gluing it back on the weight, but chances are you will either bend the J hook or the weight will always be falling off. No reflection on your skill set with that comment. Maybe it's me. I never had much luck trying what I just suggested. Here is something to look at on your knuckle coupler. Does the weight hang perfectly straight down, or is there a slight forward angle to it. Repros have a slight forward angle to them. Original knuckles hang straight down and not as far as the repros. At least, that has been my observation.
What would you think about using a Dremel to file a little bit off the bottom of the weight?
Rather than grinding off the weight, bend the whole coupler slightly up. This is real easy on link to knuckle converts. A good starting point is to bend the coupler till the bottom of the coupler is about 3/16" clearance at switches and rerailers. Also make sure the track to switch transition is flat. They will work. Don't damage the coupler.
Jim
Sturgeon-Phish Rather than grinding off the weight, bend the whole coupler slightly up. This is real easy on link to knuckle converts. A good starting point is to bend the coupler till the bottom of the coupler is about 3/16" clearance at switches and rerailers. Also make sure the track to switch transition is flat. They will work. Don't damage the coupler. Jim
Jim,
You are right. I will continue to adjust the coupler heights rather than grind or file the weights. It is primarily a problem on the cars where I converted the old link couplers to knuckle couplers. A little patience is undoubtedly what is required here.
I did try it, that is true, and it improved the clearance, but not entirely. I am going to experiment a little more with the bending idea and then consider whether to grind down the weight. I have managed to reduce the number of occurrences (i.e., uncoupling), but I have not managed to eliminate the problem entirely.
Don't abandon me. I am willing to try any and all suggestions.
Timboy I'm not. If you bend the couplers up, then you will have cars with bent-up couplers and weights that angle forward. If that look is okay with you... Personally, I prefer to get original couplers and have the cars look like they did when they came out of the factory. IMHO, repro knuckle couplers are not worth anything. Grinding off the bottom of the weight is an option if you get fed up with every other approach.
I'm not. If you bend the couplers up, then you will have cars with bent-up couplers and weights that angle forward. If that look is okay with you... Personally, I prefer to get original couplers and have the cars look like they did when they came out of the factory. IMHO, repro knuckle couplers are not worth anything. Grinding off the bottom of the weight is an option if you get fed up with every other approach.
OK, I got your meaning. It makes sense. I will study the matter a little more.
I have had both link and original and converted couplers that despite repeated adjustments continue to uncouple. I have used with success these methods and it does not damage any parts.
Link Coupler – Take the small rubber bands like used on teeth braces or small ponytail bands, and wrap it around the coupler. A small hook fashioned out of a paper clip helps.
Knuckle Couplers – take a small piece of cardboard and with the coupler in the closed position and the weight in the down position, wedge the card board between the weight and the bottom of the coupler to prevent upward travel and release of the coupler. I’ve also used several wraps of string for the same effect.
Sturgeon-Phish I have had both link and original and converted couplers that despite repeated adjustments continue to uncouple. I have used with success these methods and it does not damage any parts. Link Coupler – Take the small rubber bands like used on teeth braces or small ponytail bands, and wrap it around the coupler. A small hook fashioned out of a paper clip helps. Knuckle Couplers – take a small piece of cardboard and with the coupler in the closed position and the weight in the down position, wedge the card board between the weight and the bottom of the coupler to prevent upward travel and release of the coupler. I’ve also used several wraps of string for the same effect. Jim
I would be good with that approach, but either method that you describe will preclude you from uncoupling the cars if and when you actually want to, correct?
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